Cutting the wire is just another method to disengage the steering lock. You don't have to cut any wires, just pull the damn fuse and be done with it.
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I cut the wire because it was the quickest way (for me) to eliminate the steering lock. No idea if my rev. C was or wasn't going to fail, but now I know it can't. Having read a bit on the options, wanted to avoid any possibility of the start-up delay (real or not) with pulling the fuse. Comparing the time (for me) to pull the connector/cut the brown/tape vs. remove the plastic rivets/moldingtrim/fusebox to pull the fuse, cutting the brown was quicker and involved less pcs. Took me literally 4 minutes and everything is perfectly normal except no more steering lock. |
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No idea how real the start-up delay is or isn't, but I don't have to worry about it either way now. |
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The startup delay does not appear to be connected to SLU fuse removal - many who have not disabled the SLU are reporting the delay. Many who have cut the wire or installed the harness are reporting the delay. The main advantage to the harness and fuse-pull is that you can go back to factory condition very easily and no one can tell. Cutting the wire is permanent (at least cosmetically). |
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Thanks for the info. I've not read every thread from beginning to end and don't have a feel for how many reported delays are attributted to fuse vs. harness vs. cutting vs. stock. I've wondered if the delay was all in people's heads or if it was just a quirk with their particular car regardless of the SLU issue. I keep my toys for many years and am not worried about going back to stock. Cutting the wire was just the fastest way for me to eliminate the SLU. I do appreciate everyone's time and research to come up with these options for the Z community. This place rocks. :tiphat: |
Nope.. only because mine failed. i'm ripping that **** out if my car unlocks by some miracle in the next few hours.
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I figured there is very little benefit to having steering lock and a very big downside to having the damn thing screw up...
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I did it a few months ago and I have had no negative side effects besides the occasional delayed start. By delayed start I mean like an additional 2 seconds, literally. It beats having to pay $500 because of a design flaw that Nissan refuses to fix.
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At least one person has reported successfully getting the SLU locking pin to retract by removing the SLU (I haven't done it, but the security bolts are supposed to be rather loose, so it's a pretty easy job) and pushing the pin in manually. Worth a try. |
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But the fact that they're charging him $1500 is rediculous... told him to buy the part outright and do it himself. From what I read it's not that difficult to replace. |
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