Nissan 370Z Forum - How many of you have pulled the steering lock fuse?

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- - How many of you have pulled the steering lock fuse? (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-general-discussions/59487-how-many-you-have-pulled-steering-lock-fuse.html)

Tried to pull the fuse but it's not there in the 2011 model. :tup:

it really couldnt be any simpler, it explains how to do it further into the thread. Seriously only took about 4 minutes :) better get it done now before your car stops moving and youre out ~500$, you'll wish you had that 4 minutes back

It is very easy to do , takes about 10 minutes. There is a thread in here somewhere with pics, I'll see if I can find it

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mt Tam I am (Post 1879403)

Is this to avoid steering lock failure? I am a ticking time bomb regarding steering lock.

Same here. 09 Z. Only 13 thousand miles, so I might as well pull it when I do my exhaust install.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mt Tam I am (Post 1879471)

What is consequence if fuse is missing and system would have blown fuse?

No consequence. If the fuse has been pulled, the circuit is dead (which, in this case, is the whole reason to pull the fuse - to disable the steering lock circuit).

Quote:

Originally Posted by geddy lee (Post 1879676)

It is very easy to do , takes about 10 minutes. There is a thread in here somewhere with pics, I'll see if I can find it

Here's the thread: http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...lved-real.html

After I performed the fuse pull I posted the steps in that thread; here they are:

Quote:

For those of you who haven't done this yet, here are the steps I followed (I'm not sure that they've been put in one place):

Remove the battery compartment cover (two tabs at the front end of the cover).
Remove the four clips from the perimeter of the battery compartment surround. To remove each clip, use a small flat blade screwdriver and gently pry up the center round "head" of the clip, then pull out the entire clip.
Remove the battery compartment surround; note the section at the front driver side that goes under the support bar.
Remove the passenger side windshield cowl's rubber hood seal just to the rear of the battery compartment - there are four clips embedded in the seal, just put your fingers around them from between the firewall and the seal and pull up
Remove the passenger side windshield cowl (two clips that are the same as the battery compartment surround). Note that there is a tab (but no clip) where the cowl goes underneath the windshield seal - pull this up slightly, then pull the cowl out.
The fuse box will now be fully visible and accesible. There are two tabs at the top of the fuse box that go into the steel frame that the box is sitting in. Simultaneously push the two tabs towards the driver side of the car, and then pull the fuse box up and out.
There are two tabs on the bottom of the fuse box (where the harness enters) - push the two tabs and pull the cover open.
Put the car in ACC - you do not have to start the car.
Remove the steering lock 10A fuse (top fuse in the lower lefthand block of four fuses - see the pictures in other posts in this thread, or just look at the diagram that is silkscreened into the top of the fuse box). To remove the fuse, I just used the same flat blade screwdriver that I used on the clips to partially pry up the fuse, then I used my fingers to pull it the rest of the way out. No fuse puller or needle-nose pliers needed.
Turn the car OFF.
Put the cover back on the fuse box.
Put the fuse box back into the steel frame - make sure (a) to align the slots at the center of the box with the tabs in the frame; (b) that the harness will fold under the box and slide down into the area underneath the box; and (c) that the two locking tabs at the top of the box are fully engaged and the box is locked into place when you are done.
If you wish, now is a good time to start the car and make sure that all is well. Make sure that no trim pieces, clips, or tools are loose in the engine compartment when you start the car.
If you did start the car, turn it OFF.
Re-install the windshield cowl. To reinsert the two clips, push the center portion of the clip all of the way up, then insert the clip, then push the center portion of the clip all of the way down (you should hear a click when it engages). If the clip that goes into the passenger fender side of the cowl does not engage (or if the cowl does not lay flat on the fender), you most likely do not have the fuse box fully seated in the steel frame - remove the cowl and go back to step 12.
Re-install the winshield cowl rubber seal.
Re-install the battery surround trim (remember the portion that goes under the bar), re-inserting the four clips the same way as with the windshield cowl.
Re-install the battery compartment cover.
Pop open a tall frosty can of refreshment, stand back, and admire your $500 savings!

I believe that's it! If I forgot anything, I'm sure someone will let us know.

So, in summary: 15-20 minutes of your time and one flat blade screwdriver to save $500 - not a bad deal at all!

Advice: Put the 10A fuse you removed in a ziplock baggie in the car ("just in case"). In fact, next time I visit the auto parts store I'm going to purchase a few spare 10A and 15A fuses and leave them in the same baggie. Also carry a small flat blade screwdriver in the car in case one of the other fuses blows while you're on the road.

Quote:

Originally Posted by VCuomo (Post 1879854)

No consequence. If the fuse has been pulled, the circuit is dead (which, in this case, is the whole reason to pull the fuse - to disable the steering lock circuit).

Thank you

Quote:

Originally Posted by VCuomo (Post 1879871)

Here's the thread: http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...lved-real.html

After I performed the fuse pull I posted the steps in that thread; here they are:

Once the fuse fails it can be replaced, hence the extra fuses?

Or no it can not be replaced once it blows, and $500 is blown as well?

I now plan on fuse removal, just so I do not get stuck someplace. I still have a years warrenty and two additional years with some dang thing that added to warrenty.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mt Tam I am (Post 1879919)

Thank you

Once the fuse fails it can be replaced, hence the extra fuses?

Or no it can not be replaced once it blows, and $500 is blown as well?

I now plan on fuse removal, just so I do not get stuck someplace. I still have a years warrenty and two additional years with some dang thing that added to warrenty.

the problem with the steering lock is that the mechanical lock itself fails. not the fuse. The idea of pulling the fuse is to keep the lock in the open position, and then never giving it the chance to fail again by basically turning it on.

so is this problem only for 2009's or all models?

Quote:

Originally Posted by VDC_OFF (Post 1879972)

so is this problem only for 2009's or all models?

I believe it's mainly for 2009 and 2010 models. I think the design was changed for the 2011 model year.

Quote:

Originally Posted by daisuke149 (Post 1879955)

Now I get it. Thank you and rep shall be forthcoming.

Alpharetta, GA. You know anybody out there with the last name of Tucker? :icon17: ;)

Quote:

Originally Posted by VCuomo (Post 1879983)

I believe it's mainly for 2009 and 2010 models. I think the design was changed for the 2011 model year.

cool im safe, thanks!

Pulled it in two Z's now.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mt Tam I am (Post 1879997)

Now I get it. Thank you and rep shall be forthcoming.

Alpharetta, GA. You know anybody out there with the last name of Tucker? :icon17: ;)

Nah, i try not to associate with people in the city. Only person i know in Alpharetta, chased me down in my car onetime. his name is Bob Head.

Quote:

Originally Posted by daisuke149 (Post 1880110)

Nah, i try not to associate with people in the city. Only person i know in Alpharetta, chased me down in my car onetime. his name is Bob Head.

Are you sure it wasn't D!ck Head? :)