biggest spacers without changing studs

Footloose301 · 07-31-2012, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattP725

Lots of people like the built in studs (call them V2 for purposes of this thread) and have never had an issue however I chose the extended studs for the following reasons...

Less mounting points hence less chance for error... with bolt on spacers you have two sets of surfaces needing to be bolted down
Increasing number of studs from 6 to 12 per wheel... again more areas to potentially fail
Inner lugs hidden and harder to check torque... potential to come loose without you seeing

Not the end of the world to get the bolt ons but I'd rather spend more time at install knowing I am secure... it didn't take long at all to replace all the studs and the price difference was negligible in either direction.

I'm calling Nissan. They ripped me off. I have 5 studs per wheel!

NuffZed · 07-31-2012, 09:13 PM

Wheee! a forum member did a great write-up in the DIY section on how to do the H&R spacers and how to switch out the studs too which is very easy to do.

If you don't possess a garage, the DIY ability or the tools a shop with a lift should take between 1 to 2 hours to do the whole car for you. Wheee! and I did my spacers and new intakes in 3 1/2 hours in his garage.

Personally I wouldn't try any size spacer without longer studs.

Grindkiezer · 02-06-2013, 01:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sfearl1

I'm on 20mm up front, 25mm in the back. They are bolt-on spacers, not stud-replacement. I got mine from Z1 and they have been on the car since last December

I'm running the same set up but I've noticed that my steering wheel seems to vibrate a little now. It's not because my wheels are out of balance so I'm wondering if it's the spacers themselves

DEpointfive0 · 02-06-2013, 01:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grindkiezer

I'm running the same set up but I've noticed that my steering wheel seems to vibrate a little now. It's not because my wheels are out of balance so I'm wondering if it's the spacers themselves

It's an install problem, I don't mean to be an *******...

You have to put anti seize on the back, install them, drive around, do a bit of wheel shimmy-ing to put stress on them and squeeze some of the anti-seize out, THEN relighted after 50 miles or so

CDepp · 02-06-2013, 07:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJ-of-E

I would not use the stock studs for this application. You could get away with 5mm, but I wouldn't run them hard. I concur with Hithere to either use the bolts that come with the spacers (H&R's are harder than stock) or get some ARP bolts and open lugs.

Really? I thought aftermarket would be softer. Harder ones would be more prone to snapping off under stress.

Side story: Good pipe wrenches can be bent almost into a loop - they're softer steel and won't break. Ridgid (Elyria, OH) has 48" steel wrench in their warranty department that was torqued with a fork lift on an oil platform. Wouldn't break, so they kept pushing until the thing looked like a retarded pretzel. Then they wanted it replace, even though it worked as intended (designed not to shatter).

Felix 808 · 02-06-2013, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Th3 On3

So why are v2 spacers not good?!

Because you can break a stud at the hub, & not know it until you take the wheel off.

cheshirecat · 02-06-2013, 10:34 AM

H&R 20mm front, 25mm back bolt-on spacers. No wobble, easy setup. As another person said, bolt them on, run them for approx 50 miles, then take the wheels back off and re-torque.

You don't have to replace the studs if you don't want to. Literally hundreds of cars have used this setup without an issue.

Even the Porsche GT3 runs spacers in the rear. Don't worry about it.

07-31-2012, 09:13 PM	#17 (permalink)
NuffZed Base Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Canada Posts: 105 Drives: 12 370ZR Blk Rose M6 Rep Power: 12	Wheee! a forum member did a great write-up in the DIY section on how to do the H&R spacers and how to switch out the studs too which is very easy to do. If you don't possess a garage, the DIY ability or the tools a shop with a lift should take between 1 to 2 hours to do the whole car for you. Wheee! and I did my spacers and new intakes in 3 1/2 hours in his garage. Personally I wouldn't try any size spacer without longer studs. __________________ '12 Blk Rose 6MT Sport Nav - Stillen Gen2 intakes - Stillen HFCs and Cat Back Exhaust - H&R 15/20mm spacers - Koni Shocks - Swift Springs

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
new spacers and studs; now sterring wheel vibrates	thakswet	Wheels & Tires	66	03-24-2014 10:59 AM
Z1 Hub Centric Wheel Spacers and Extended Studs	Z1motorsports	Tires/Wheels	36	02-03-2014 02:42 PM
[FOR SALE] 15 mm H&R Hubcentric Wheel Spacers with Studs	Jordo!	Parts for sale (Private Classifieds)	4	03-08-2012 03:35 PM
[FOR SALE] used H&R 15mm wheel spacers with extended studs	Danny3.7	Parts for sale (Private Classifieds)	4	02-14-2012 08:13 AM
[WTB] 10MM or 15MM Spacers with studs	Mozen	Parts for sale (Private Classifieds)	5	08-14-2011 05:13 PM

02-06-2013, 10:34 AM	#22 (permalink)
cheshirecat A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 1,428 Drives: N54 135i Rep Power: 292	H&R 20mm front, 25mm back bolt-on spacers. No wobble, easy setup. As another person said, bolt them on, run them for approx 50 miles, then take the wheels back off and re-torque. You don't have to replace the studs if you don't want to. Literally hundreds of cars have used this setup without an issue. Even the Porsche GT3 runs spacers in the rear. Don't worry about it.