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Steering lock problem solved (for real)

Originally Posted by alcheng And I like reading comments from people like you always found useful tips and post it up here thus benefits lots of member thus people are

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Old 12-18-2012, 02:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
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And I like reading comments from people like you always found useful tips and post it up here thus benefits lots of member thus people are very happy.

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Old 12-20-2012, 11:57 AM   #2 (permalink)
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so, what is the difference between the IPDM and the steering lock? Im guessing the SL is powered by the IPDM unit. Just wondering because my IPDM was replaced recently and I am assuming this means my SL could prob still go, right?
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Old 12-20-2012, 12:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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so, what is the difference between the IPDM and the steering lock? Im guessing the SL is powered by the IPDM unit. Just wondering because my IPDM was replaced recently and I am assuming this means my SL could prob still go, right?
The steering lock and IPDM are different parts so if your SL was not replaced then yes it can go bad.
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Old 12-20-2012, 01:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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so, what is the difference between the IPDM and the steering lock? Im guessing the SL is powered by the IPDM unit. Just wondering because my IPDM was replaced recently and I am assuming this means my SL could prob still go, right?
The IPDM-E/R (Intelligent Power Distribution Module - Engine Room) contains fuses, relays, and a computer to turn things on and off. Located next to the battery.

The Steering Lock Unit is powered by the IPDM-E/R. Located under dash on steering column.

Yes. Your SLU can still fail.
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Old 12-20-2012, 02:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z View Post
The IPDM-E/R (Intelligent Power Distribution Module - Engine Room) contains fuses, relays, and a computer to turn things on and off. Located next to the battery.

The Steering Lock Unit is powered by the IPDM-E/R. Located under dash on steering column.

Yes. Your SLU can still fail.
thanks, so basically you would pull the SL fuse from the IPDM
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Old 12-20-2012, 03:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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thanks, so basically you would pull the SL fuse from the IPDM
That is the only SL fuse to pull there are no others
So to answer your question yes
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
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thanks, so basically you would pull the SL fuse from the IPDM
I would and I did.

Instructions are above and in several other threads. I've collected links to many of the SLU-related threads at Links to posts about Steering Wheel Lock.
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Old 12-28-2012, 02:26 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Cant break it down any more then this thanks guys thought it might help since no one posted pictures also fuse box cover is intimidating at first but it unclips easy from the bottom 2 clips.
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:14 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I pulled my fuse at the dealership before they even made the repair, so there's no chance of failure again.
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:47 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I pulled my fuse at the dealership before they even made the repair, so there's no chance of failure again.
Good job
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:57 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I seemed to be having he steering lock issue. My question is, does the steering lock keep the car from going into ACC or just ON?

I changed the battery last night and cranked the car right up. Now, she won't make a sound. Lights are good, interior lights are good, and the car locks and unlocks with the remote. But, pushing the start button......NOTHING.

I tried locking and unlocking the driver side door as recommended by the service manager @ Nissan. Still, nothing.

Also, the steering wheel is NOT locked. Moves freely. I removed the fuse, and still nothing.

7
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Last edited by Sevens370Z; 12-30-2012 at 12:59 AM. Reason: Needed to add info.
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Old 12-30-2012, 01:14 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I seemed to be having he steering lock issue. My question is, does the steering lock keep the car from going into ACC or just ON?
SLU failure will allow the car to go to neither ACC nor ON.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevens370Z View Post
I changed the battery last night and cranked the car right up. Now, she won't make a sound. Lights are good, interior lights are good, and the car locks and unlocks with the remote. But, pushing the start button......NOTHING.
Sounds a lot like SLU failure.

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Originally Posted by Sevens370Z View Post
I tried locking and unlocking the driver side door as recommended by the service manager @ Nissan. Still, nothing.
As far as I know, that will have no effect on the SLU problem.

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Originally Posted by Sevens370Z View Post
Also, the steering wheel is NOT locked. Moves freely.
If the SLU locking pin does not retract completely, the wheel will be unlocked, but the microswitches are out of synch.

Is the Intelligent Key warning (to the left of the VID (outside temp, MPG, &c)) on? Won't go to ACC or ON? No whirr from the SLU when you press the start button? If all those are happening, you have SLU failure.

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I removed the fuse, and still nothing.
You have to pull the fuse after you get the SLU to let the car go to ON or ACC. If the SLU is not making the microswitches properly, it does no good to pull the fuse. See my thread at Links to posts about Steering Wheel Lock for links to more info.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Question: I assumed I didn't have SLU issues the first two times my Z failed to start because re-charging/replacing the car battery started the car. Now, on its third failure to start, I can't get it into ACC, which assumedly means SLU problems. Is there a reason why disconnecting and replacing the car battery could have worked before, but not now?


BTW, nice compilation of symptoms below SouthArk, thanks.


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Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z View Post
SLU failure will allow the car to go to neither ACC nor ON.


Sounds a lot like SLU failure.


As far as I know, that will have no effect on the SLU problem.


If the SLU locking pin does not retract completely, the wheel will be unlocked, but the microswitches are out of synch.

Is the Intelligent Key warning (to the left of the VID (outside temp, MPG, &c)) on? Won't go to ACC or ON? No whirr from the SLU when you press the start button? If all those are happening, you have SLU failure.


You have to pull the fuse after you get the SLU to let the car go to ON or ACC. If the SLU is not making the microswitches properly, it does no good to pull the fuse. See my thread at Links to posts about Steering Wheel Lock for links to more info.
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Question: I assumed I didn't have SLU issues the first two times my Z failed to start because re-charging/replacing the car battery started the car. Now, on its third failure to start, I can't get it into ACC, which assumedly means SLU problems. Is there a reason why disconnecting and replacing the car battery could have worked before, but not now?

BTW, nice compilation of symptoms below SouthArk, thanks.
Just guessing here, but, if you're having an SLU problem, disconnecting the battery may merely give the SLU another chance to retract fully. I doubt that disconnecting the battery has any effect and it's just coincidence. But I'm just guessing.
I'd try rapping/beating on the SLU until you can get the car into ACC/ON, then pull the fuse (or install a harness or cut the wire).

You're welcome.
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:09 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks SouthArk370Z! Yep, all symptoms I have. No ability to get the car in ACC mode. It's SLU.
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