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Originally Posted by alcheng My own mechanic charges me $35 for regular oil, probably $75 for synthetic, I think it's either Castrol or Mobile1, I forgot.... how much of that
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 5,844
Drives: 10 370z 40th M6
Rep Power: 660 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
how much of that is labor & how much is for the oil itself?
__________________
2010 370Z 40 Anniv., 6 MT | Fast Intentions | Swift Springs | SPC | Z1Motorsports | JWM | Redline Oils | 35% Window Tint 2015 Mazda6 | 370ZChicago: Chicago Area Cars & Coffee |
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#2 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Toronto
Posts: 28,894
Drives: 2011 ZR PW w/Clutch
Rep Power: 418355 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I really have no idea, I've been dealing with him for 13yrs, he just tell me how much and I just pay.. LOL I know he is honest, so I never really ask. But when the job is costly, he will tell me the cost breakdown and explain to me.
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#3 (permalink) | ||
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Toronto
Posts: 28,894
Drives: 2011 ZR PW w/Clutch
Rep Power: 418355 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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dude, read my post, why would you ask the questions that I already given you the answer on page 1..... The more thinking you go through, the more headache you will have. No matter how far is the dealer, thinking won't make you a decision, you still have to drive there test drive the car regardless.
Last edited by alcheng; 04-23-2012 at 06:51 PM. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,589
Drives: '12 GM Nismo # 0445
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Quote:
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Base Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: US
Posts: 11
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Quote:
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#6 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Toronto
Posts: 28,894
Drives: 2011 ZR PW w/Clutch
Rep Power: 418355 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
As far as I can suggest, wind noise, left over tire tread, in-cabin rattle over bumpy road or during cornering.
The condition of the leather seats, cos that could mean "real" mileage of the car. Engine response at high rpm, not asking you to redline the car crazily during test drive but pay attention when above 4-5k rpm on vibration and if the engine still want to pull. If it is a MT, pay attention to rattling noise when idling, if you hear rattling noise during idling, there's some problem (sorry I forgot which part, something relate to a bearing in the gear box). At least take a look at the camber/toe visually, and how tight the steering feel, how is the centering, any play. In case you go ahead to purchase, might as well consider the extended warranty, but make sure ask them in details what are covered and what are not, those things could be tricky sometimes. GL!!
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#7 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Canada
Posts: 134
Drives: 2010-370z-40th Ann.
Rep Power: 299 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Check the condition of the tires,see if they are new(er )or the originals ,tires dont last over long on a Z if you are hard on the throttle,if they look like the OEM factory Potenza tires with 20k on them he probably didnt run it too hard.
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