Not a rumor but a fact, I used to own a 580whp 390wtq s2k and stock transmission did great for the 3 years that I owned it (the car was driven hard), all that's needed is a new clutch.

From what I remember people on s2ki did big turbo builds on stock transmission, the weak link was the differential which was remedied by going aftermarket.

To this day I can't think of a manual transmission that shifts as nice as the s2k.

I was being a bit sarcastic:icon17:

I used to have an s2k laying ~530wtq, trans still felt great (although it was definitely less reliable if abused).

OnCallZ, as you noted, the diff was the weak point. Ironically enough, I remedied this with a 300ZX TT diff:bowrofl:

Were you on S2ki?

My 1.3 rotary pushes out 368 whp...twin turbo that is

;) just feel like puting it out there

Oh and 200 torque

The amount of troll in this thread makes me lol.

Anyways, from my meager experience I find the 370z transmission to be very good. I have absolutely no trouble making buttery smooths shifts either in stop and go traffic or with the pedal mashed to the floor. Took me about a month of driving it before I truly mastered this gearbox though

Hey NYBladeZ, if there was one mod (mechanical or otherwise) that you would not do again, what would it be?

I read eleven pages and I am shocked to see that not one single person mentioned the 4.5L stroker kit. People spend thousands on some carbon fiber and save a few pounds here and there (not including the full CF body pieces).
No one is willing to fork the money out to see what almost a full liter of extra displacement will do for an N/A Z? I can't imagine the performance gains you would get out of a Z with the full CF treatment and a 4.5L engine that can safely spin to 8,000 RPM (maybe bump the CR to 12.xx:1) with all the bolt on mods!

Wow... sounds like the worlds crappiest sounding v6 that guzzles a lot of gas for gains that will rival a v8 using double the amount of fuel. After stroking out a VQ, you better use some type of forced induction to control fuel consumption. I rather just buy the GTR engine and drop it in a Z for that money.

This is probably the best question in this whole thread.. :tup:

That statement is just...wow. Let me turbo my car to save on fuel! :shakes head:

Uhhh you can use forced induction to add power and control fuel consumption if you program the ecu for such. A very low boost would add power and control consumption better under light driving than a car that bored out naturally aspirated. Of course if you get on that same car you will lose fuel, just like with intakes and exhaust mods.

I don't think anyone boring out their engine is really concerned about fuel efficiency

True but my point is it costs $8000 to bore it out. How much power you think a v6 will get on a naturally aspirated 4.5L V6? What would torque be on a 4.5L v6? I imagine torque ratio would be horrid without FI. At least with FI and a boost controller you would at least get the amount of power that's warranted for the amount of fuel used.
So let's say after boring it out, you decide to FI to level things out some. You are looking at 12k minimum to the 8k. At 20k+ you can get a factory GTR motor that will give you less problems overall. Then other supporting mods... that will be a 30k engine to make it run well. It would be more efficient and cost effective to attempt an LS1 swap. (If possible in the Z)
Not worth it imho but that's just me though. I guess thinking like someone who just likes experimenting with shyt? It might be a fun thing to do for some?

Yea I'd be curious what kind of NA numbers are possible from it. I think the point of this kit though is for high end setups. If you bore the engine and FI your going to be far ahead of the GTR in terms of power...

GTM’s 1000HP Z

True
:iagree:

I can only see it being worth it with fI though. NA 4.5 v6? Why? Just go to v8 from there and save the trouble.

Is anyone really installing dry carbon replacements for all the major body panels? It would be insanely expensive (totally not worth it), and honest anything less would be silly from a weight drop point of view (with the "looks only" carbon bits you might save 0.4 lbs for thousands).

Much cheaper to leave the body alone and gut all the excess weight inside the car for racing. Or just leave it all alone and enjoy a nice street car :P

The Z's hp:weight ratio is perfect NA, IMHO, and scales well to a nice low-end track car if you do all the bolt-ons and the obvious weight-stripping. It's just enough to push the tires around and make a decent lap times, and not so much that it wants to fly out of control at the slightest throttle bump from a ripple in the road like some cars.

Would I take an extra 50whp for free? Sure, but it's fine where it is, too. If your primary goal is to accelerate harder, there are much better options than the Z. Try one of those little 80s mustang bodies with a blown LS1 in it. You can probably put the whole package together for cheaper than a stock Z and blow the doors off just about anything. I didn't buy the Z looking for that, or looking to compete with it :P

Honestly, if I had to pick, I would say the braille battery but only because of reliability issues in the long term. For the weight savings, well lets just say that even after the carbon work the braille was a significant difference I felt it immediately. After that I regret the installer for my headers, using liquid gasket and not even mentioning it to me was a big no no.

:tup:

I really thought about going N/A and 4.2-4.5L but frankly all that $ for what is more likely than not be less than 420whp...I couldn't justify it. Moreover, its not like you can then change your mind, you would need to swap out to low comp pistons and that's without mentioned the standalone EMS which fast and furious quotes for $10g's hahaha.

What would torque on a NA 4.2/4.5 be though? 300 lbs? Lol. These VQ's seem to produce low torque ratios as you bore out the engine.

The 3.7L VQ is already rough. A 4.5L VQ will send vibration up your a$$hole and shake all your stools out.

:icon17:

HAHA... :roflpuke2:

Just strange that me and a few other 370 drivers I know have never had any of the complaints everyone cries about on this forum. Maybe the dual mass FlyWheel is the reason people think its rough? I'm use to the dual mass from my Altima IDK?

A dual mass flywheel is not going to make shifting feel rougher.


If anything, it shifts smoother as a result.


I think you'll notice most of the comments come from people that have spent time behind the wheel of quite a few high performance rwd cars...

I've never had a complaint about the shifting in my Z. The clutch sensation is... different, but shifting through the gates is fine, nothing special, but fine.

Its not that the Z shifter is bad at all, but there's a standard out there of people who got used to BMW style shfters and the companies that copied them. Some companies even wound up surpassing BMW in shifter feel. Honda and Mazda are two that get the most glory. Maybe some of it its placebo that they think there shifters are so great due to the relative low cost of the car for such a luxurious feel???
But even still,, by comparison most will feel the Z feels rather average. Me personally, from what I can feel about the Z in its overall performance. It has ultra-modern handling and performance, with a very retro feel and sound coming from both the engine and transmission. I'm not saying that the transmission is purposely not as good to give a retro feel. But coincidently that's what happened. And to my tastes, the Z feels great, even though I know there is a higher standard. I chose the auto for better accel times. :) so fk it. Lol.

But that's part of what forums are for. For people to praise and complain. Especially after they moved on to something else or nothing else.

big difference between my old rsx-s and the z in smoothness of the transmission. not horrible, but it did take some getting used to.

The RSX-S was a very tight car. They'll always have a special place in my heart.

If you dont like the way the 6spd feels get an Auto.

OP pics of your car?

Since I am unlikely to ever put the Z on track (motorcycles are my thing), this is the route I went.

One of my ex's had an non-S RSX when I knew her years ago. It was a wonderful little car. It's a shame they cancelled those.

I can attest to the fact that a full bolt on 370Z will pull on an E9X M3 DCT, not bad considering the cost, engineering and power differentials. To me, the Z is as close as you can get to a back to basics raw sports car experience as you can find in the new car market. The car is simple and honest for the most part, something that is increasingly hard to come by in a day and age where electronic nannies and increasing levels of refinement are taking a lot of the excitement and involvement out of the driving experience.

That said, I am most likely selling/trading my Z this summer for a 300ZX TT. Gotta love mid 90's forced induction and lack of TC/VDC.

I know man, I might even say that the RSX is my favorite front wheel drive car ever. At least in my time... (24 years old)

Well said. Makes driving the 370 even that much more enjoyable when you consider it is more of a "purist" car.

I've owned several performance cars, including an S2000. I would sure as hell not say that the 370Z transmission is on par with an S2000, but not much is, and what is, is way out of the Z's class.

It's not bad. It's not great, but it's not bad.

i can... i know its out of our price point for these cars, but porsche's transmissions are absolutely freaking amazing... along with most everything else on those cars

:iagree: I especially like Porsches' amazing total cost of ownnership.

I owned a Prelude and a HondaS2000, the 370 doesnt even come close to the butter smooth shifting of those manuals, however this car shiits on those cars when it comes to practical torque on the streets.

I dunno, i came into my Z from a 5 speed manual accord and fine my shifts to be just as smooth if not smoother in the Z :tiphat:

My biggest gripe with the Z is the engine. It doesn't sound good, and it feels like it's about to shake itself to pieces when you rev it up.

This is a fatal mistake in a "sports car" IMO.