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waiting on parts to come in.. sucks.
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#2 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Having a productive little day. So far I've mowed the lawn, fertilized the lawn, over seeded, did some preparation for the brick walkway I'm installing, then it rained a little (perfect timing), met the UPS guy with a nice box of goodies from Auto Finesse
![]() ![]() Hopefully I'll have enough energy after my little guy goes to sleep to try out my new products on the Z. ![]() Oh, and I hit 2000 posts today! Everything's coming up GaleForce today ![]()
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#3 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Drives: Varis Arising II
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#4 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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#5 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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pintsize- as with any DIY, do at your own risk.
![]() First go to your local AceHardware. they seem to have the best selection of loose metric screws and washers. You want to get: a. 2pcs: metric screw M10x40 or M10x50 1.25pitch (10mm diameter, 40~50mm length) b. 2pcs: 1" thick wide collars that your M10 screws can fit through. Make sure these are wide collars (spacers) as your seat rails will sit on them. c. 2pcs: Large washers that your screw can fit through. d. Assortment of large diameter spacers that your M10 screw can fit through for backup. Now onto your car's driver seat: 1) Seat rail mounting bolts are hidden under black plastic caps. Just pop them off with a small flathead screwdriver or pick-tool. There are 4 of them (2 front, 2 rear). 2) Then loosen the front 2 bolts (dont remove the screws, just loosen real good). 3)Then side seat forward, remove the 2 black caps and the 2 rear bolts completely. Keep an eye on how much thread went into the floor so that when you put your new M10x40 screw in, you dont go in too deep. store factory bolts in safe place for when you want to sell the car. 4) Raise the back of the seat and rail off the floor (seat isn't that heavy), and place your two thick 1" collars(spacers) between the seat rail and the floor. you can easily do different heights ranging anywhere from 1/2" to about 1-1/4". align the screw holes so that you can thread your M10x40 bolt through. 5)Then take the M10x40 screws you bought, place washers (and spacers if bolt is too long) and thread it from above the seat rail into the floor. tighten to 36lbs. if you dont have a torque wrench, it's tight but not super tight. 6) Then side your seat back, torque down the 2 front rail bolts to 36lbs. 7) leave the black caps off for now as you will need to retorque all 4 bolts after a few drives. retorque 3-4 times until they do not loosen anymore. 8) place black caps on the rail bolts and you're done. ![]() |
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#7 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Ken, wish I could give you another rep for that helpful post to pintsize....but I've got to spread more around again!
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--Brantly-- PowderCoating by Mike/Stillen/PWJDM/Shine Auto/NST
GTR/Michelin /Fast Intentions/Evo-R/Mobil 1/Motul/Z1 https://facebook.com/CentralFloridaZClub ![]() |
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#10 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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and you sir deserve one for that photochop ![]()
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![]() 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic | ARC | CJM | Ecutek | FI | Fujimura | R2C | SPL | Stillen | TWM | Z1 | ZSpeed | |
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#15 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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![]() ![]() This is shaping up to be an all about Z day: -Debating on whether or not to go buy screws/washers for seat mod. Don't want to deal with Saturday shopping crowds though. -Need to figure out what to do with the stock cat back. -Need to find a way to drain some oil without having a set up at home. Grr. -Taking her to get washed and interior cleaned after the sun goes down.
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