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I pulled my 2009's fuse last month. I have the extended warranty but the thought of driving hundreds of miles from home and have to deal with this is not

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Old 10-01-2012, 06:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I pulled my 2009's fuse last month. I have the extended warranty but the thought of driving hundreds of miles from home and have to deal with this is not worth the theft prevention aspect.

I'd love it to blow and have it properly repaired while at the dealership, while in for a service. I have Murphy's Law on my side so I preempted it.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mt Tam I am View Post
I pulled my 2009's fuse last month. I have the extended warranty but the thought of driving hundreds of miles from home and have to deal with this is not worth the theft prevention aspect.

I'd love it to blow and have it properly repaired while at the dealership, while in for a service. I have Murphy's Law on my side so I preempted it.
Could you please specifically state the number of the fuse, so I can tell my mechanic to pull it before I have the problem. Thanks.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Could you please specifically state the number of the fuse, so I can tell my mechanic to pull it before I have the problem. Thanks.
If I read the FSMs correctly (SEC-127), it's fuse #48. I did mine recently and it's identified with a label that says something close to "Wheel Lock" either next to the fuse (near bottom on left row of fuses) or on the cover. It's not at all difficult to figure out once you get the fuse block out. There is also a DIY on here that explains it.

Edit: Makes sure the mechanic pulls the fuse AFTER the lock retracts (s/he should be able to hear it retract when the car is turned on (not started), it's rather noisy). See the DIY on this site for details.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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If I read the FSMs correctly (SEC-127), it's fuse #48. I did mine recently and it's identified with a label that says something close to "Wheel Lock" either next to the fuse (near bottom on left row of fuses) or on the cover. It's not at all difficult to figure out once you get the fuse block out. There is also a DIY on here that explains it.

Edit: Makes sure the mechanic pulls the fuse AFTER the lock retracts (s/he should be able to hear it retract when the car is turned on (not started), it's rather noisy). See the DIY on this site for details.
Thank you. I'm taking your post with me.
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