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my Z broke down

How much brake fluid do you have currently? Judging by your description, it seems like brake fluid. Edmunds.com recently wrote in their 370Z blog that their Z (@6300 miles) indeed

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Old 05-24-2009, 09:41 AM   #16 (permalink)
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How much brake fluid do you have currently? Judging by your description, it seems like brake fluid. Edmunds.com recently wrote in their 370Z blog that their Z (@6300 miles) indeed were low on brake fluid.
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Old 05-24-2009, 10:17 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Lol, engine break in has nothing to do with his problems... betting on brake/caliper issue.
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Old 05-24-2009, 11:53 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Lol, engine break in has nothing to do with his problems... betting on brake/caliper issue.
Break-in is across the board on all parts, engine, transmission, brakes, suspension. Just how much is required for each component is a different issue for a different thread.

Judging by the clear fluid and such it does sound like the caliper seized and the seals failed from the heat. New rotor, new caliper, new pads, full bleed. Probably US$500-$1000 in parts depending on if just one side failed or both front calipers are trashed.
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Old 05-24-2009, 12:03 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks View Post
Break-in is across the board on all parts, engine, transmission, brakes, suspension. Just how much is required for each component is a different issue for a different thread.

Judging by the clear fluid and such it does sound like the caliper seized and the seals failed from the heat. New rotor, new caliper, new pads, full bleed. Probably US$500-$1000 in parts depending on if just one side failed or both front calipers are trashed.
I understand the small window where it could potentially happen, but I still very much doubt it. Everything should seat properly within the first 20 miles of driving. I'm leaning towards faulty brake line... and glad it didn't happen on city streets for the owner.
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Old 05-24-2009, 12:09 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Guys, whether or not insufficient break-in had anything to do with the root cause is beside the point. If Nissan finds out this happened while he was driving hard on the track with only 500 miles on the car, they may use 'failure to comply with break-in procedure' as an excuse to deny the repair under warranty. That was my only point. Hopefully they won't find out that this happened on the track. Or if they do, hopefully they won't be dicks about it. But I won't be surprised if they do is all I'm saying.
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Old 05-24-2009, 03:53 PM   #21 (permalink)
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hi guys, thanks for all your inputs, opinions and comments...the engine still revs when i step on the gas pedal, but it still wont go forward even if we cooled it down..i didnt hear any clacking or grinding sound, we were thinking if my tranny got busted...i dont think its brake fluid because it would have definitely damaged the paint on my door and rear fender...we had to tow my car to the pit and the brakes were working fine while they were towing it, no locking or whatsoever....the fluid sprayed on my car because this happened while my car is still running fast on the track, btw, my friends Z had no problems and he is even driving harder than me...he was also driving in drive mode...he has around 700 miles on his car...i cant claim warranty since my car is not bought from a local nissan dealer since nissan philippines doesnt carry the Z here, i bought mine from the gray market who had it imported from las vegas....anyway, ill know in a few hours whats the real problem. its 5am here, will keep you guys posted. thanks again..

just to add, i wasnt even really driving it that hard i think, never revved above 6k rpm for sure...
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Old 05-24-2009, 03:54 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Well, for the record, I'm not trying to start a tangential discussion on proper break-in procedure, whether or not it's really necessary, etc. The only point I was trying to make is -- why give Nissan an excuse for ducking out of their warranty obligations if you can avoid it? I mean, Nissan is already famously stingy when it comes to denying warranty claims. No need to hand them a excuse on a silver platter.
yea i agree...totally forget to mention anything about tracking or racing your car to the dealer when you bring it in.

those guys wanted $50 to reset my Airbag lite, cuz i had a head unit installed...but they did it for free, all it took was 3 mins and a laptop.
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Old 05-24-2009, 05:09 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Poor, poor z... :<
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Old 05-24-2009, 05:11 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sideburnZ View Post
hi guys, thanks for all your inputs, opinions and comments...the engine still revs when i step on the gas pedal, but it still wont go forward even if we cooled it down..i didnt hear any clacking or grinding sound, we were thinking if my tranny got busted...i dont think its brake fluid because it would have definitely damaged the paint on my door and rear fender...we had to tow my car to the pit and the brakes were working fine while they were towing it, no locking or whatsoever....the fluid sprayed on my car because this happened while my car is still running fast on the track, btw, my friends Z had no problems and he is even driving harder than me...he was also driving in drive mode...he has around 700 miles on his car...i cant claim warranty since my car is not bought from a local nissan dealer since nissan philippines doesnt carry the Z here, i bought mine from the gray market who had it imported from las vegas....anyway, ill know in a few hours whats the real problem. its 5am here, will keep you guys posted. thanks again..

just to add, i wasnt even really driving it that hard i think, never revved above 6k rpm for sure...
Wow, this is turning into a real mystery. Well, good luck man, I hope it turns out to be something very simple (and inexpensive). Keep us updated. You don't suppose it might just be radiator fluid, do you? Like maybe there's some sort of failsafe in the ECU that prevents you from continuing to drive it when it detects that the radiator fluid is low?
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Old 05-24-2009, 05:16 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I also did not mean to turn this into a break-in argument Semtex, I was just messing with you.

And I agree whether or not it has bearing on warranty and whether or not certain parts need break-in etc. doesn't matter. It's just a good idea to do it anyway. Better safe than sorry.
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Old 05-26-2009, 12:04 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by semtex View Post
Like maybe there's some sort of failsafe in the ECU that prevents you from continuing to drive it when it detects that the radiator fluid is low?
If that were the case, it shouldn't let you rev it if there's no coolant either. I'm suspecting it's a catastrophic failure of one of the tranny coolant lines.
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Old 05-26-2009, 12:28 AM   #27 (permalink)
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If that were the case, it shouldn't let you rev it if there's no coolant either. I'm suspecting it's a catastrophic failure of one of the tranny coolant lines.
OOUCH..if its that...the tranny might lock up and die. i agree if the brakes were fine the only thing that would stop you from moving has to come from the drivetrain.
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Old 05-26-2009, 01:34 AM   #28 (permalink)
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did this happen during the brc trackday of emperor this past weekend? which shop did you bring it to?
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Old 05-26-2009, 07:32 AM   #29 (permalink)
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hi guys! the leaks came from my tranny hoses, its located near the front left wheel. the fluid that spewed out was my transmission oil, its reddish in color. i thought it was clear when it happened that day. maybe i just got color blind that noon...hopefully my transmission is not damaged from it. the mechanic concluded that maybe the clamps on the hoses were not that tight and pressure was building up so boom..factory defect? we still havent tested anything yet as we are still waiting for my transmission fluid..can i use 350z tranny fluid? importing 370 matic s fluid from japan is very expensive...i hope my trannys not busted or anything. is there a safety cut off when things like this happen? thanks again...
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Old 05-26-2009, 08:45 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Last edited by ChrisSlicks; 05-26-2009 at 08:47 AM. Reason: Duplicate
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