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Originally Posted by lpsscc I don't think he meant an hour literally. Obviously it takes more than an hour but the point is it's not a large investment for what
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#1 (permalink) | |
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I got into a discussion years ago with a guy back on the Pontiac Solstice forum about how long it took to put the top up or down. After pages and pages of thread, the guy swore it only took an average Joe 10 seconds to do with no rushing around. He was delusional. I always thought maybe he was an engineer at GM trying to back his baby while wearing a welding mask. Totally blinded. ![]()
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Wow, you must be fun at parties. I was just trying to help people out guy, no need to get your pretty little pink panties in a wad. If you actually read my post, you'd see that my install was uber simple and I did the bare minimum. My car didn't have spare tire, foam, tools, etc to deal with. I already took that crap out a long time ago. So for me, it was just a matter of removing the trunk panels and slapping the 12 sq ft of B-quiet down and then laying corrugated foam on top of that. So YES, it took me roughly an hour. Maybe it was an hour and 21.50894 minutes? A couple hours? No idea. Next time I'll keep track down to the millisecond. The point I was making is that you don't have to go all out and dynamat the whole car to get good results. It can be done on the cheap, and quickly. I apologize again for making you PMS so hard. Switch to decaf, my friend. ![]() Last edited by Raw_Shark; 03-19-2012 at 01:21 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) | ||||||||
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Your 1 hour is not the norm, it's the exception. 4 - 8 hours is the norm. Quote:
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For all, what I found doing this is that you HAD to cover everything. Using your fingers and knuckles, you can rap on the metal to see where it sound's plinky. Before you start, almost everywhere sounds this way. But even after I covered the entire left half of the flat bottom area, the right was totally plinky sounding, like I had done nothing. Just putting down 1 piece in the middle of an area did not fix the problem either. I had to do everything to eliminate the plink. I do not agree with Raw_Shark. So to what level you choose to do this is up to you. After doing this myself, I'd say going through all the trouble to yank everything out, if someone isn't willing to spend a measly $100-$200 to do it right, they are just being cheap. They aren't poor because they have this $30,000+ impractical car. I myself was being cheap, because I didn't want to spend $200 to do it. But now after I spent 8-9 back breaking hours doing it, the money seems irrelevant. My advice is not to skimp with stuff from Lowes (and rumors of the potential smell issue don't make me thrilled either), but to buy the best automotive industry made stuff you can find. That doesn't mean more expensive is always better, so I'd search around for a brand you find comfortable with, then buy their highest dampening stuff they have. If you want to do the entire trunk area including the fenders and back wall, it's going to take 9-10 sheets @ 18" x 36". Do less if you want, that's up to you. Cheers --- Bonzo ![]()
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Finally Able To Order 2012 Model 8/24/2011 Delivered Tuesday November 15, 9:57 am!!! 2012, Auto, White, Sport, Kick Plates Last edited by Bonzo; 03-20-2012 at 09:34 AM. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Additionally, I bought a $8 can of undercoating took off the rear wheels and sprayed the inside of the wheel wells. It just so happened that I live on a street that is coming apart and the tiny pebbles were driving me crazy coming to and from my house. My problems with road noise was only the tiney sound that the pebbles made hitting the undercarridge and wheel wells. If I'm on a road that allows me to go faster than 30mph the rocks seem to fly out under the fenders before they can even make a revolution and therefore no contact with inner fender wells. That's a good thing. I'm glad to say that three hours later and $50 I'm pleased with the results. The sound hasn't completely gone away but, it sounds much more pleasant now. A dull thud vs. a high pitched and vibrated ping. I know it sounds like we're making too much of this but, it's not something I'd expect in a expensive street car. Something I expect out of a cheap econobox or in a race car or track car you expect it. I know why Nissan did it but I don't need the 20lbs it saves me on this item. You can still hear tire roar and tell the difference between road surfaces but, that has improved somewhat as well. I took couple good long trips on the freeway and back mountain roads this week. Those roads had a lot of pot holes and gravel to test the work with. What I noticed is that I enjoyed the sound of the motor and stereo a lot more and it did seem to be more quiet. I could spend another $50-75 and 3-6 hrs installing more material in the doors and firewall etc... But, at this point I do not really see the need. I think I made a marked improvement over what the factory has done and at this point I do not think I need to do any more. Time will tell. It only takes about 5-10 minutes to get all the rear panels and spare tire out of there so don't be afraid to tackle this one if you have modest skills. I can't seem to find the finished product pictures. But, here are the ones I took with all the panels out: ![]() Last edited by Mecinoid; 03-22-2012 at 08:46 AM. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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not to troll this thread but i just don't understand what the point in dampening the sound in the z. it's supposed to sound and feel like a raw sports car. dynamat'ing the car takes away from it, and imo you mind as well just get a beemer, benz, g37 that's meant to be like that from the factory
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#6 (permalink) | |
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..did you read the pro reviews posted earlier in this thread? They all say the road noise extraordinarily loud.. That being said each to his own...glad you like it the way it is......but i post this just to answer your question. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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After riding Saturday The verdict is a thumbs up. I wasnt paying attention at first since i havnt driven since last weekend, then i realized how nice it was. Just cruising about town with the windows down somewhat. It was perfect for a SPORTS CAR. Now thats the key. If you read reviews on any sports car, 95% will mention road noise as a negative. Thats because its a sports car. What I did was perfect for me. It sounds great . Noise was a non factor. Now I didnt go over those perferated cement highway sections but so what. For normal cruising, it was great. I added 2.5 rolls of a product bought at Lowes called Frost King and 1/2 inch layer of backed carpet insulation and removed the spare and layed down a comforter in the spare area. Made a nice unseen storage area. I will be putting on 19s tires 255/295 ( instead of my base 18s) soon. Im hoping what I did is not cancelled out somewhat with the larger rubber. Cross my fingers. Rich
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#8 (permalink) |
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So now that I have the dynamat and luxury liner pro in, its very nice inside. I added a layer of Dynamat to the inside of the front fender liners and it made quite a difference. The harshness is almost gone from the road noise, everything is deeper and more subdued. I took some buddies for a ride and they both commented how much quieter it was inside. I think we have two converts coming soon.
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#9 (permalink) |
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I don't ever expect the 370Z to sound like a mid-engine car, but I also don't want to hear every pebble that I drive over - I'll probably give this a try soon.
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#10 (permalink) |
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Thanks for the thread...
I have had a 350Z, so I know road noise, I knew the 370Z would be the same, but I want to get rid of Tire noise, and the sound deadening seems like the thing to do.. Thanks for the tips..I now have another project.. And you want road noise ? My other car is a close ratio Pro touring Z/28.. Leave the radio off, and both windows down....That is crazy fun...WOT is just addicting..
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2009 Sport/Touring 370Z 1971 Z/28 with coil overs, rushforth's, willwoods, Hotchkis. 4 speed GMC Sierra1500 Last edited by Bucketlist2012; 03-17-2012 at 11:01 AM. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Just my 2 cents on the noise level. It's a sports car. Not a high-end sports car...but a good one with great lines. It's NOT a stuffy Z4. Or, Audi TT. Etc., etc. There were several things I didn't even consider when I bought mine.
STEREO - I turned it off. I wanted to hear the engine. ROAD NOISE - Didn't care. Was too busy enjoying a great sports car! GAS MILEAGE - Didn't care! Ok, when I fill it up...and really only VERY briefly! I forget all about it when I drive away... It's a gritty car. One with tons of history and fans. I honestly don't even notice the road noise. I'm too busy trying to wipe the smile off my face. Again...just my thoughts! |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Sometimes. Message Sent......
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Finally Able To Order 2012 Model 8/24/2011 Delivered Tuesday November 15, 9:57 am!!! 2012, Auto, White, Sport, Kick Plates |
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Just a heads up, I had the wheels off the car yesterday and I checked the rear wheel wells to see how "noisy" they were when tapped with a knuckle. I found that the outer half of the driver side wheel well had a distinct ring to it when tapped. The passenger side rear wheel well was not nearly as bad, probably because the gas filler pipe changes the shape of the wheel well liner. This was after I had done a fairly extensive Dynamat job on the car (see my prior posts early in this thread). I had some rubberized undercoating in the garage so I applied a heavy coating on the outer half of both wheel wells which seemed to make a modest improvement, this should help with "pebble noise" too. My advice would be to include a heavy application of undercoating in the rear wheel wells to complement the application of Dynamat in the interior of the car.
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A couple of things to consider..
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