Ahhhhh, it looks like the FLEX XC 3401 would be the ticket! :tup:

I donno about the handle but the total system is easy to understand and use. Orange pad for polishes, red pads for glaze, sealants, and wax. Can't get any easier than this.

Some times too many choices makes it too clumsy. Unless you're a pro easy is good.
This is why I like the Griots system. And it does very well. :p

re painted my front bumper...

off subject
 

:ughdance:FOR SALE.................4 20 inch chrome wheels and tyres suit 370z These wheels were on wifes car for 1000 klms only before car was sold with business with standard wheels put back on.Paid $3500 will take $1750 cash.......for more info send your email address and i will post photos off car and on Pearl white Zed:happydance:

after cruising the forum today, i was all set to come home and lower the car a smidge more in the front. decided to pull into the driveway halfway to see how much clearance i have:

http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/4199/almostscrape.jpg


that pic explains it all. cant go any lower since i only have about half an inch of clearance :(

The PC has a removable handle too. But I don't use it anyways. Just grab a hold of the back of the PC... Don't get me wrong, Griots is nice too. I like them all :)

If you're not careful with any of these buffers, you'll burn the paint. It's just harder to burn it with a dual action like the PC or the Griots DA. The Flex is halfway between a DA and a rotary. It cuts better and quicker, giving you a better result than any other DA at 1/2 the passes. Some people (inlcuding myself) say it even finishes nicer than a rotary.

Put it this way... the Flex is the safey and convenience of a DA, with the power of a rotary.

Ken, the pad system (and associated colors) applies to all DA's/rotaries, not just Griot's. Using a hook and loop backing plate, the pads are interchangeable with any machine. So it doesn't matter whether it's a Griots or PC or Flex. As long as you have the proper sized backing plate, you can switch around the pads. I usually correct with my Flex, then glaze and seal with my PC. Flex is just that much better for correcting.

Also in general, the oranges and coarse yellows are universally color coded to be more aggressive, followed by coarse green, white, grey, blue, red, then gold. Use grey for final polishes, blue for glazes, then red for sealants. Gold pads are just for caressing ;)

looks like plenty of room to me:tup:

I agree ^ haha

got it tinted!! :p

dng

course, that thought may be why all my cars have battle scars like this

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e3...0/IMG_4106.jpg

Once I was all the way dropped...I lost the front lip on a driveway.

no Z action again today. i have a list of stuff to do on my other cars but on the Z only the mine's rear wing lip thingie. :D

anyone want to sell me their rear near/near new 275/35/19 tires? :D i need to replace the rear tires on my G35C... i suppose i can use the 2 rear tires from my sport wheels im not using, but i'd hate to put more scratches on them. :shakes head:

see...thats what im trying to avoid lol. i actually have a minor dent on the black plastic part of the splitter. i was so low that i hit my own ramps the first time i dropped the car after setting the coils. i immediately raised the front. ill replace that part eventually...but from what i hear nissan charges ~$400 for that part!

chops- can't you heat it and push it out from the back? :confused:

i did! took a heat gun to it and pushed it out, but its still slightly indented. couldnt get it to mold perfectly into the exact shape since its rounded. did my best though.

ill just end up replacing it sooner or later as it gets more and more scrapes (the first week or two getting used to the lowness definitely scraped it up a bit heh). but now that i know what i can and cant go over, i hardly scrape!