What did you do with your Z today V (ON TOPIC DISCUSSION ONLY)

Inflaymes

There's no attachment point on those handles you have to drill out?? I remember reading some had a part you had to drill out then use a screw when installing?

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redondoaveb

If you want to completely disassemble them for painting then there are 2 pieces that need to be drilled out and tapped for screws. That's how I did mine. It's not necessary but assures that you get complete coverage underneath the handle itself.

Attached Images

Screenshot_20240215_083046_Chrome.jpg (587.1 KB, 11 views)

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Fast Intentions "Stage Seb" twin turbo #098- Specialty Z/Tial-Xonarotor/CJM/Ecutek/HKS/KW/SPL/Hotchkis/Rohana/Toyo
750whp/700ft.lbs

abm89

I think i'm the only one who likes the silver door handles.

I did buy silver aftermarket wheels so maybe i'm the problem haha.

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Complete Parts List:
https://github.com/abm89/ztouge-build

Tractionless

I Like them but my car is silver like the one in the forum page header, one of the few colors they don't seem out of place on.

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Toys Not Tots

cv129

I used to like it too. Then slowly getting converted to the other side lol.

I have a white V1, so the door handles aren’t as huge of a contrast than the darker color cars, and i make the weak argument of silver headlights, silver rims, silver door handles, the bezel on the side marker, sorta just go together…just to keep my peace

But after I installed the CF brake ducts and intake ducts,
the silver is a thorn again. Sigh

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Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield

Tractionless

Installed VR30 7AT w/new internal filter, added auxiliary external filter, and aluminum driveshaft.

Nissan is WAY overkill with brackets on the trans.!! The one employed for the trans. breather on the bellhousing bolt at 12 o'clock is ridiculous, simply zip tied it to coolant cross-over pipe on the drivers side in damn near the same position as the bracket. I deleted 3 brackets in all not including the two that bolt to the bellhousing bottom which can't be retained due to the VR30 bellhousing missing their bolt bosses.

In the process I learned a easy way DIY transmission flush that can be employed on most vehicles. Simply remove the rubber return trans. cooler line from the hard line leading to the engine and let it drain into a container until it looks new while (caveat) pouring fluid into the dipstick tube.

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Toys Not Tots

cv129

Nice!! played with the idea of a tranny swap on the wife’s car for a few sec. Why not the new 9AT? Either way, I heard the VR30 7at has better shifts and logics. Congrats

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Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield

Tractionless

I haven't seen any info. on 9AT fitment yet and figured it would be very expensive considering they're mostly brand new if they do fit. I'm thinking being the Z needs to retain its TCM marriage with the Z ECU (have to swap the Z TCM into the VR30), I doubt the 7AT TCM will control a 9AT.

My '10 101k 7AT was having issues with flair-ups when shifting in both manual and auto mode. When downshifting in manual mode there was a "double bump" upon catching the lower gear; almost like a blown mount slop feeling but the mounts are fine, so it seems the slop was within the Z trans. Also, when downshifting in manual mode, instead of holding the gear down to 1,500 rpm then freewheeling (normal Z trans. operation), the Z trans. revs would frequently fall from as high as 2,700 rpm causing freewheeling instead of holding the gear like a manual.

The 2018 VR30 trans with 60k I sourced remedied all of the above, rev matching is much faster and the VR30 was $375 with the torque converter included! FYI, you DO NOT need a Red Sport model trans. as the only difference between it and the other VR30 trans.' is the RS TCM has the same rev match downshift feature as the Z TCM you're swapping in anyway. Otherwise, all the other hardware within both trans.' are the same per Godzilla Racing.

The only quirk I'm left with is the harsh 3-4th gear shift for which I've already done the TCM update which fixed the issue for a few months then resurfaced in the Z trans, unfortunately that carried over to the VR30. I work around it in both trans' by lightly lifting off the accelerator slightly to lessen torque demand thereby commanding a "lighter" shift which is smoother. I wish ECUtek had a TCM reset option like the ECU, being it doesn't my only chance at a TCM reset/relearn would be disconnecting the battery and then all systems start anew.

I had the ECUTek torque modulation for the Z trans. set at 130% of OE which is too harsh for the VR30 trans. as the shifts are so abrupt the car lurches forward lifting the front end (within the suspension travel) during high throttle position shifts. I know the VR30 vs. Z trans. OE For OE shift logic is more aggressive in the VR (most likely due to valve body design and different solenoids), so I'll be adjusting the torque modulation within the tune to suit my needs during future drives. I only got about 10 miles in after finishing this weekend before rain started for 2+ days but I'm VERY happy with the results thus far.

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Toys Not Tots

markesc

Cheap thrills with some Morimoto LP lights...amazing how much dirt clogs up the inside of the rear bumper - So enjoy a mt of dirt falling when you replace yours:




BTW: Does anyone know of a clip unhooking tool specific for cars? Basically some a plyer set specific for unclipping electrical clips - kind of one of those "nice to have" tools... What do the stealerships use? While I don't "mind" using a flat head at times - some of them require brute force leading to broken clips/fingers... Luckily these lights were cooperative...

Attached Images

LP Lights.jpg (178.2 KB, 145 views)

markesc

Door handles matched up quite well... photos as promised:





Now the car REALLY needs spacers and lowering... Just trying to avoid money pit status ("recovering" WRX owner so...sure you can understand...Z ownership has been financial "therapy" in comparison...)

Attached Images

	IMG_0731.jpg (199.8 KB, 277 views)
	IMG_0732.jpg (155.7 KB, 276 views)

cv129

Look for “electrical disconnect plyer”. I recently was on a mission looking for one, finallly got to the keywords that yield decent results.

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Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield

abm89

The Z runs well. I've been using the bike more though.

I was a dip$hit and broke a rear SPL endlink, so i thought i'd give the Z1 adjustable endlinks a try. So far, they work fine.

I need new rear tires but the Michelin PS4S in 305s (and 285s) are now $420 a piece. I might as well just go with some 200 TW on the summer set for a little more so I might just get four AD09s at NISMO OEM sizes vs the upsized set. I didn't like how the michelins handled anyway. Steering input was very vague.

I'm currently waiting on my Craft Square mirrors. We're going into month 5 haha.

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Complete Parts List:
https://github.com/abm89/ztouge-build

abm89

I finally bought a small pressure washer (mainly to clean my small patio), but it came with a foam cannon. I learned it goes through soap QUICKLY.

I gave the car a wash, trying out some GTechniq products and it looks pretty good. I have the summer wheels/tires on right now but they ride super wonky compared to the new all seasons I have. At a minimum i need two new rear tires and those Michelins are eye watering now.

The old stillen bumper is on because i plan on painting my dive planes and re-clearing my Top Secret Lip for the OEM style bumper while I'm off next week. I might also do a gear oil change while I have the the time off. I still have the parts needed for the front motor maintenance, but I have no cooling issues and the Oil pressure is comfortably at 1.7bar (25ish PSI) at warm idle which is well within spec. I kinda don't want to mess with it if it's fine haha. 152.5K miles!

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Complete Parts List:
https://github.com/abm89/ztouge-build

abm89

I already have a gas mask. i'm GTG haha

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Complete Parts List:
https://github.com/abm89/ztouge-build

TreeSemdyZee

Just in case anyone is worried about reliability.

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Borla S-Type | Motordyne | Z1 (lots) | South Bend | K&N | Nismo/Nismo S-Tune | Eibach | Aerojacket | Fujimara | Spl | ZSpeed Performance | Kenwood-Infinity-Sound Ordnance | Whiteline | Ecutek | Hotchkis | Clazzio | VQ Vortex |Morimoto XB |Dynosty Tune 329.64hp 265.73 ft/lb