I have a re-threader kit so Ill run the die down a bit. I appreciate the heads up.

I barely get to drive my car these days since I started working from home... to the point where it is a struggle to drive my vehicles enough to even keep the batteries conditioned. For the rest of the DD tasks we take my girl's far-more-practical Toyota Yaris - the Z would be a waste of miles as she does not allow me to have any fun at all when I drive with her in the car.

Anyhow.. I had to go to an appointment that was 35 minutes away of 6 lanes of light-traffic interstate driving and decided to let the snails out for some exercise. You drive something for a while and no matter how powerful it is, you'll get used to it. Take some time away (I think the addicts call this a 'tolerance break') and it'll be your honeymoon all over again.

I may or may not have hit full boost in 5th.
I may or may not have peed myself a little.

As a DD I feel this far too often. Still love the car just wish it had more but I don't need that kind of temptation.

I see depends in your near future. So says my crystal ball.

Memphis, here comes the other side of the exhaust!!

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7848/...ea1b68cd_c.jpg

Thank you my good man!

This piece looks really nice, and it is super tempting for me. There are a few things I have beef with:

• How does it affect the wear on the already crappy syncros we have in that gearbox?
• The shift knob isn't the same thread pitch as the standard one, so i wouldn't be able to use my fancy custom Ti knob from Lathewerks

In other news, My wheels should be here today, the rear tires should be here tomorrow, and i have a clutch master going out on me again (thankfully I knew this would happen and bought a new OEM one years ago and stored it inside.)

I realize they have a Tilton one out now for our cars, but considering I just emptied a good portion of my bank account, i'll just have someone install the OEM one for now.

Edit: Also going to Winding Road Racing for the car's first ever corner balance.

RJM (not RJ Manufacturing) has a heavy duty clutch master cylinder :twocents:

I'll be interested to hear about your experience at Winding Road Racing :tiphat:

LOL i'm aware (it's tilton branded so i went with that)

Also WR is pretty good with the work they do. Sometimes i get the impression some of the techs are "disinterested" in working on the car if it's minor crap (like flushing my clutch pedal), but maybe that's how I'm interpreting it. i'm closer to them than SoulSpeed at the moment (like cycling distance), so while I had an excellent experience with SS, they're way out of the way.

I'm likely going to RoundRock Nissan to get the master replaced b/c i have a coupon on my counter lol.

Finally!

https://imgur.com/AFkN17ul.jpg

I only did a rough weight estimate of the rear 19x11. Just under 18 pounds.

No idea if extra wear, as far as the knob, just get another custom one made with the 12 x 1.5 thread adapter. :tup: :icon17:
https://i.imgur.com/7GciGmCl.jpg

Lol I likely won't right away. That Ti is expensive

Getting a detailing appointnent for the weekend (calling for rain too)

Little too cold for me to do myself and i was a jerk and didnt bave it cleaned before storage.

Need to figure out a fluids change... also lazy arsed and didnt do it before storage. Oil and then change the clutch/brake to rbf 1000 minus 400

I got 2 bottles of that RBF1000 (minus 400)
It's good stuff! :tup:

Wish I new of a local detailer I trust enough :(

Mine's going to get tint and detailed next month. :tup: I found a detailer that is associated with the local Z club and does great work, plus he owns a 93 300zx. :tup::tup:

Mine's back in the garage on the tender, it's raining and this weekend they are calling for snow (WTF?!?!?!?!) on Sunday.... :ugh2::ugh2:

1000-400* :rofl2:

There are a ton of good detailers in Houston. Just not in austin lol. It's definitely not a car city.

Lol rbf1000minus 340 too much for essentially street use.

The shop owner is local and on boards (used to). He did my side splitters on old z

Slush sat for me... gonna toss on the tender in april when i travel for a few weeks

You got it lol:excited:

I haven't had any issues with 660 for the brakes on the street, but my car is biased more towards track use. I till use 600 for the clutch.

edit: Jar you cheeky bastard. I see what you did.

The trade off for the higher boiling point of the 660 is that it collects moisture content a bit quicker than the 600. So the question is whether a higher boiling point or a longer fluid change interval is more important to you.

Haha, just make the switch to Castro SRF Racing brake fluid and call it a day! You can get a full season out of the stuff too.

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I switched to Castrol this year.:tup:

A lot of people will choke on the price tho.

It is expensive but you make up the cost in time and labor not having to change the fluid out all the time. I also think the performance is better too. I use it for clutch fluid and it improves clutch engagement and and smoothness.

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It's up there with OS Giken diff lube. :eek: And I'm using both.

Good fluids are not cheap and we have diff coolers which add another liter to that setup. I can't use the OSG lube but I use the Motul Nismo stuff same price as the OSG!

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Did my diff lube change when I did the sub-frame bushings. Took about 2.5 liters. $70.00 a liter. $210.00 to change the diff lube. :eek:

I usually do the brake clutch every 2 years using rbf.... car is brand new just under 5500 km
Doing 3rst oil change and swapping out the oem garbage now that its cycled in a bit

Woopwoopwoopwoop.

The Torque RT700 I thought was pretty good too :tup:

Thank you the370z.com & search...

Hit a large puddle during a deluge at 45ish and then developed a horrible grinding when coasting/ off power

Quick search finding a 2010 comment of someone else who tried to skip their car over a lake mentioning they bent a heat shield up into the drive shaft

Reached under car and popped heat shield back down

small groove scratched into driveshaft but noise free again

What are you using? Unicorn blood. :icon14:

The OS Giken 80-250 gear lube for the OS Giken LSD diff is $70.00 per liter. With the Z1 diff cover and the MAM diff cooler. It takes 2.5 liters.

Got my coilovers installed today thanks to dragonbreath (as always). :tiphat:

They feel great and we'll get the height squared away next weekend.

Might have missed it what brand coils did you get. I need to go a half inch down on mine and scared as hell to attempt it!


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You gotta use it too. Otherwise the diff is a noisey, binding, wobbling piece of crap. LOL Ask me how I know.

I chose the BC Racing BR Series with the Swift springs upgrade because I drove my buddy's Z with this set up and loved it. I picked them up during Black Friday and got a great deal from Josh at Kamispeed. For my needs, they seem to be perfect and a really good value.

How you know how?


:rofl2:

You know why. I used everything but the OS Giken fluid. Changed to it and no more issues.

:stirthepot:

Today I discovered paint cracks on my hatch and both paint cracks and yellowing on my fenders. Six years of perfection and now this. I'm going to sit on this until I get through my fight with the State of CA regarding my loud exhaust ticket in two weeks.

:shakes head: