My Z gets to be a guinea pig , for a 3d printed piston seal. (TPU) Clutch master cylinder . for this to work properly and to last, the oem fluid needs fully flushed and only dot5 added. This is the only fluid to not break down TPU. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...feb424aab0.jpg

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

I’m all for 3d printing things (I’ve got one at home I use frequently), but for something like this why not just use a proper seal? Have you tested to see if TPU will stand up to brake fluid long term?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In my location I cant find a seal, and the rebuild kit is discontenues.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

Over the weekend I dropped my transmission. I did the job in my single car garage and put my Z up on jack stands. My girlfriend helped me do the job since she wanted to learn. My neighbor, myself and my girlfriend put a floor jack under the transmission to pull it in and out. The transmission is heavy! The last time I dropped my trans was when I was working at a dealership so I put my car on a lift and I had a transmission jack.

I replaced the rear main seal, pilot bushing, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, CSC, CSC clutch fluid feed tube, flywheel bolts and the pressure plate bolts. All parts are OEM. I also drained and filled my transmission fluid.

You will need to buy the Snap-On special tool wheat bread. The tool was $1.49 at my local grocery store. This will be used to remove the pilot bushing. Stuff the pilot bushing with bread as tight as you can. Then get a bolt that will fit in the pilot bushing and hit the bolt with a dead blow hammer to compress the bread. Repeat this process until the old pilot bushing is all the way out. Mine came out really easy.

For installation simply tap in the new pilot bushing with the dead blow. The pilot bushing is chamfered on both ends so you can put it in either way. Once I got the pilot bushing in a tad, I put a 3/8's drive deep 15mm socket on top and tapped it the rest of the way in. It will bottom out. There is a little lip inside the crank where it goes into. You will notice a different sound and feel when this is accomplished. I also just looked at where the old one was too before I took it out.

For the removal of the rear main seal I used a screw and drilled it into the rear main seal a couple of threads. Be very careful to not hit the crank of the block. Once the screw was in I got some pliers and grabbed the screw and the seal came out with just a little force. Some oil will come out. For installation of the new seal, I just tapped it in evenly all the way around with my dead blow hammer. Once I got it almost seated I used the old one and placed it over the new one to help it sit just perfect in the block and around the crank. There is also a little lip that will stop the seal from going in to far so the seal was perfectly flush with the face of the block.

All I got to do is connect the battery and put the inside back together.

Be damn sure that you use a good T55 torx socket when loosening and tightening the flywheel bolts. I loosened the bolts by hand. The head of the bolts are shallow so if you round them out you will be having a bad day. Per the FSM, lubricate the input shaft with lithium grease. I also put lithium grease on the pilot bushing face and inside of it. I also put lithium grease on the clutch splines.

The flywheel bolts are 65 ft lbs.
The 17mm bell housing bolts are 55 ft lbs.
The 14mm bell housing bolts are 34 ft lbs.
The pressure plate bolts are 11 ft lbs, then 29 ft lbs.

Loosen and tighten the above mentioned bolts in a star pattern. All of the other bolts were torqued to German specification which is guudentight.

So, if you're wanting to do this job, don't be a pvssy and just tackle it with a friend.

Hmmm, I think I may paint my side view mirror covers black and paint my door handles like the colors of yours as well. My Z is solid red and I'm digging how those two things look on your Z.

Motor is good in the Z. New bearings on order. Still trying to nail down the PS fluid weep.
Gonna start with a new o-ring for the PS pump but it's possible the sensor is going bad.

Piece of asphalt did this to my Z today, 14 miles from the nearest exit in Tennessee.

That's the gas tank for the uninitiated.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2b7e9a14b6.jpg

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

:eek:

Fuuuuuuuu.....

Crossed fingers on clearing it?

good to hear the motor is fine. I'm about to do some PS maintenance myself. I'm still holding out on getting a new rack, but I plan on getting the stillen PS cooler (looks to work better with the space constraints I have with my center mount oil cooler).

Sidenote, I bought some diode dynamics SSC2 SAE driving lights. I'm going to stealth mount them behind the bumper and tap them into the brights.

Its plugged for now. Will go into the tank and seal it from the inside as well. Figure I'll replace the tank over the winter. I'm just glad I didn't end up as part of a NTSB report. Apparently the cloud of fuel immediately after impact was impressive and covered all the cars behind me.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Ouch!

Booooo :thumbsdown:

My gas tank and w-brace both have a nice dent in them from a large chunk of concrete that fell off a construction truck. Not quite the damage yours sustained. Hope you get it fixed up good :tup:

Got the bearing work done but still making noise. Turns out the alternator is toast (as suspected) since the PS fluid was leaking onto it. New Denso alternator and we're going to change out an o-ring at the electrical connector and keep an eye on the weep.

Another possibility is the switch in the system but we'll see if the o-ring sorts it out first. There was also some play in the PS pump, but the backup one I have has exactly the same amount of play. Can rebuild my original PS pump if we can't sort out the leak.

I have the CZP PS cooler. Rack was replaced under warranty a few years back at 80K miles.

ugh, i have to do the brakes on my mom's Z this weekend. Not excited.