Preventative maintenance is the key.

OEM cabin filter.
2 OEM engine air filters.
Oil change using Nissan 5W-30 ester engine oil, OEM oil filter and crush washer.
Installed new parking light bulbs for each headlamp which were OEM.

I also installed all three heater hoses which were OEM. The heater hose clamp for the right side where it goes on the coolant pipe on the back side of the head was kind of tough to get to. Remove your strut bar and engine cover for better access.

Now, for all you nervous freaking Nellys worrying about how to fill your cooling system, read on. The coolant used was the OEM blue coolant.

As I'm sure you guessed it I had to drain my coolant before installing my new heater hoses. Once I got them installed I closed the drain plug on the radiator which requires a Phillips screwdriver and then proceeded to remove the left hand side air filter housing. This is necessary to remove the radiator air bleed plug which requires a Phillips screwdriver to remove and tighten. Start by slowly filling your radiator and ensure the O - ring on the air bleed plug is lubricated with clean engine coolant. Once coolant starts coming out of the air bleed plug hole quickly put the air bleed plug in and tighten it. Then, continue to slowly fill the radiator until the coolant is above the top of the upper radiator hose. Once that is done put the radiator cap on and check the level in your plastic reservoir. Add as necessary.

Now start your car leaving the plastic reservoir cap off and let the car get up to operating temperature. Turn the heat on and make sure the T - stat opens up by feeling your lower hose. Once this happens. Check and correct the coolant level in the plastic reservoir and put the cap on. Road test the vehicle a few miles and then return to the shop. Check and correct the fluid in your plastic reservoir. You're done.

What was the reason for changing out the hoses to the heater core? Are those known to break down over time?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In between the two heater hoses on the passenger side is a plastic tube which is a restrictor. Mine started to crack. Once I got the heater hoses off I gave them a few good twist and the plastic piece broke.

Installed longtubes. Without removing the coolant tube or steering shaft. Because I’m a masochist I guess. Or maybe because I didn’t read that you’re “supposed” to do that until after I finished. :ugh2:

Which LTH's did you install? And how long did it take you?

ISR. Took about six hours end to end, but there was a sandwich break and a few “yell at the college football game” breaks strewn in there. Could probably do it in 4 - 4.5 hours if I had to repeat it.

That’s probably the quickest I’ve heard of someone doing it. I’m guessing you gathered a big selection of extensions and swivel joints for it to go so smooth??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Took me doing FI LTH's 45 minutes to do the right side and about 5 hrs doing the left side. The damn heat shield hung me up.

Flex ratchets and wrenches, u-joints, wobble extensions and zen like patience.

Passenger side is super easy and comes out as one unit. On the driver’s side I had to remove the cat to reach the rear manifold bolt from underneath. Trickiest parts going back were the rear most lower bolts. Tubes turn down too close to get the nut over the stud with the flange fully seated. Had to hand start them as I slid it in place and use an open end wrench to tighten…about 1/8 turn at a time. Not fun.

Sat replaced spark plugs, and one ignition coil.
Came out in two pieces,
Still chasing the stumble at idle or driving.No codes z idles perfect.
Over 99k miles plugs,
What do you guys think of the plugs?

Ha! Did the same thing Saturday. Thankfully, I had Z1 replacements, but when taking the last one out, "SNAP" busted it in half.

Plugs are SHOT.

The electrodes seen better days.

I haven't updated in a while.

The new Denso to USCAR adapter for the injector on cylinder 5 definitely fixed the funky idle and unstable AFRs. New manifold gaskets were in order while I was in there as well as 6 new Denso OEM plugs. We re-ran the logging and everything was at least consistent now.

We're now starting the Flex Fuel map tune with 93 and getting those logs in. It's very handy living close to a tollway.

I ordered an ethanol testing kit. EcuTek is reading 17-18% E content from my tank when this is (at least) the third time I've filled up with 93 from close to empty. 15.5 gal of Shell Vpower moved me from 18% to 17.8% ethanol content, so I'm not sure if that's expected from VPower, or if the ECA-2 is reading incorrectly.

Most pump gas has at least 10% Ethanol and could have more, at least, that's what I've read. :confused: