About $3000 for parts plus labor. My pressure was like 12 so I needed it done immediately.

Installed new Fast intentions exhaust and Fuel pressure gauge from CJ-Motorsports.

I gotcha. I’ve been holding off on doing mine as my pressure is from 25-30 at 180F temperatures. I’ve been very fortunate to not have to replace mine for 135k miles. Unless the gaskets were upgraded in the first 8200 miles (which is when I bought the car).

Let me know if you want me to dig up the invoice Kevin charged me. I did gallery gaskets, oil pump, oil pan, oil & ps cooler, thermostat, water pump, ps pump, coolant flush, engine mounts and few other items. Mostly labor except I think he sourced the thermostat for me.

yeah that would be great. That's about all of what I might be doing. I just need to decide if it is something i want to do myself or not. No rush though as the car is running fine.

We now have an ethanol percentage reading in Ecutek! Now for the fun!

Logged data. Tons of data

Cold start
Cold Idle
Warm idle
60mph cruise
85mph cruise (because Texas)
WOT pull to (almost) redline (the angle of my double dashboard tuning setup had me shift at 7.3K)

Wow that before 7AT fluid temp.?! :icon23:

I dont have a 7AT bud.

Edit: I see what you mean. I had to do that myself. Cut Evap pressure sensor, connect ethanol signal. Then Seb enables the Flex Fuel feature in the software.

So I did more runs yesterday, but I found a DTC for a misfire on cylinder 5. I did some basic troubleshooting:

- swapped the coil pack for cylinder 5 and 1 -> the problem stayed on 5
- checking the plug itself (looked ok with the diode intact), but swapped it anyway and it still stayed on 5. I doubted it was the plug as they've been replaced at 90K. (currently 135K)
- the logging shows zero knock on the pulls which is also good. zero timing correction too.

Given the car did pulls smoothly and the miss is only at idle, it probably just needs some fine tuning. I originally noticed the different idle when i swapped to the base SZ map so i thnk the car is fine. The car is running rich with the fat-a$$ injectors in it on 93 octane so we will see. I have no doubt Seb can figure it out and it will idle nice and smooth. Can't wait to get it dialed in to start the flex fuel part! I do have one question, has anyone done the idle-relearn before? I've never tried it.

Tried drilling out my sway bar bolt I broke back when I did my diff mounts.
Broke a screw extractor while it was stuck in the bolt. Ground that down. Now I have a super hard piece of metal to drill into.
Got some masonry carbide bits on order since my cobalt/tungsten carbide blend and cobalt bits didn't work and neither did any of my Dremel bits.

So, Seb mentioned the adapter cables for the ID injectors can be a point of interest. I disassembled the intake and manifold and tested the continuity on the adapter cable for cylinder 5. With a friend holding one side, I moved the cable around and sure enough, it would randomly lose continuity on one of the wires. We tested it multiple times, and it was intermittent enough to warrant an issue. I ordered some replacement adapters and some new spark plugs (already have access so why not?!)

Ordered Illuminated Sill Plates - Planned my third light install. Planned my Rear View mirror / Display install. Bought sound deading material and carbon fiber dash and center console pieces.

Last week just a little touch up paint and buff out. No nicks now. Set up iPhone for Sirrus Radio, cleaned underhood and modded exhaust sound a bit.

Made a new power steering high pressure hose to fix a major leak in the old line. The GTM supercharger kit relocates the steering pump so a custom line is needed.

-6AN stainless braided PTFE hose. Harbor Freight cable cutter worked great.

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Preventative maintenance is the key.

OEM cabin filter.
2 OEM engine air filters.
Oil change using Nissan 5W-30 ester engine oil, OEM oil filter and crush washer.
Installed new parking light bulbs for each headlamp which were OEM.

I also installed all three heater hoses which were OEM. The heater hose clamp for the right side where it goes on the coolant pipe on the back side of the head was kind of tough to get to. Remove your strut bar and engine cover for better access.

Now, for all you nervous freaking Nellys worrying about how to fill your cooling system, read on. The coolant used was the OEM blue coolant.

As I'm sure you guessed it I had to drain my coolant before installing my new heater hoses. Once I got them installed I closed the drain plug on the radiator which requires a Phillips screwdriver and then proceeded to remove the left hand side air filter housing. This is necessary to remove the radiator air bleed plug which requires a Phillips screwdriver to remove and tighten. Start by slowly filling your radiator and ensure the O - ring on the air bleed plug is lubricated with clean engine coolant. Once coolant starts coming out of the air bleed plug hole quickly put the air bleed plug in and tighten it. Then, continue to slowly fill the radiator until the coolant is above the top of the upper radiator hose. Once that is done put the radiator cap on and check the level in your plastic reservoir. Add as necessary.

Now start your car leaving the plastic reservoir cap off and let the car get up to operating temperature. Turn the heat on and make sure the T - stat opens up by feeling your lower hose. Once this happens. Check and correct the coolant level in the plastic reservoir and put the cap on. Road test the vehicle a few miles and then return to the shop. Check and correct the fluid in your plastic reservoir. You're done.