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Old 06-27-2019, 06:19 PM   #3601 (permalink)
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These mothers have some authoritay!

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Old 06-27-2019, 08:40 PM   #3602 (permalink)
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These mothers have some authoritay!

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Set the length the same as the stock ones.
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Old 06-27-2019, 08:47 PM   #3603 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
Set the length the same as the stock ones.
Lol... Rusty, the first thing I do after I unbox a new part is check your build thread to see if you've posted about it
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Old 06-27-2019, 08:52 PM   #3604 (permalink)
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Lol... Rusty, the first thing I do after I unbox a new part is check your build thread to see if you've posted about it
Pull them apart and anti-seize all the threads.
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Old 06-27-2019, 08:53 PM   #3605 (permalink)
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Pull them apart and anti-seize all the threads.
On top of the anti-seize that SPL had already applied?

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Old 06-27-2019, 09:27 PM   #3606 (permalink)
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On top of the anti-seize that SPL had already applied?

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WWwhat? They putting anti-seize on the threads now? Hmmm..........
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Old 06-27-2019, 09:34 PM   #3607 (permalink)
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On top of the anti-seize that SPL had already applied?

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There is not enough if you dont look like the tin man when you get done

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Old 06-27-2019, 09:38 PM   #3608 (permalink)
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There is not enough if you dont look like the tin man when you get done

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That deserves some repz, funny (and true).
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Old 06-27-2019, 09:43 PM   #3609 (permalink)
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There is not enough if you dont look like the tin man when you get done

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Old 06-27-2019, 09:53 PM   #3610 (permalink)
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They certainly do... but like ZCarp said, a bit more can't hurt. Any issues with using copper anti-seize? I'm trying to avoid the whole "Tin Man Busted a Nut Here" look.

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Old 06-27-2019, 10:11 PM   #3611 (permalink)
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I've never used the copper, just the silver goo. Anything with dissimilar metal gets the tin man money shot
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Old 06-27-2019, 11:01 PM   #3612 (permalink)
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I've never used the copper, just the silver goo. Anything with dissimilar metal gets the tin man money shot
When I was with Elliott. Nickel based was used for gas turbines. Copper based was used for steam turbines. Myself. I use the nickel based because I got a chit load for free at one time. Gave most of it away.
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Old 06-28-2019, 11:34 AM   #3613 (permalink)
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Putting the SPL rear traction links in now and am suffering from a severe case of "While we're in here..." In this case, it's "you already need to get an alignment, you might as well get the SPL FUCAs beforehand."

The ability of humans to rationalize anything never ceases to amaze.
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Old 06-28-2019, 02:37 PM   #3614 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
Set the length the same as the stock ones.
Rusty, I set the length same as stock, and tried to put both arms on, spacer on subframe followed by FK rod end, but cannot for the life of me get the clevis ends over the knuckle bushing without adjusting the traction link length. Any suggestions?
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Old 06-28-2019, 04:17 PM   #3615 (permalink)
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Rusty, I set the length same as stock, and tried to put both arms on, spacer on subframe followed by FK rod end, but cannot for the life of me get the clevis ends over the knuckle bushing without adjusting the traction link length. Any suggestions?
When you remove the stock traction link. The knuckle will creep out of position. You have to move the knuckle back into position. I pushed mine back in. You may have to jack it up a little.

Something else to look forward to. With the SPL traction link in place. The bottom caliper bolt will not come out. You still can unbolt the caliper tho.
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