Break in period for a new z

mults · 01-25-2017, 10:06 AM

I've been driving for over 45 years, and I've always broke-in the car the way that I would ultimately drive it. However, I would never red line it or try and lug the engine. In all these years, I've never experienced any excessive oil burning, or any other internal engine component failures. I think the key is to change RPM levels on occasion. All of this helps to seat the piston rings and that's what the break-in actually accomplishes.

MCDX · 01-25-2017, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZoomZ

Most important is vary the speed on highway. I've ran all the way to 6th.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mults

I think the key is to change RPM levels on occasion.

Is it really THAT important? What does it improve?

Mr. Engineering Explained also doesn't clearly mention any technical details on this point.

Zthirty4NISMO · 01-25-2017, 11:58 AM

My Grandpa would always do a hard break in along with giving it hell on the test drive

so I ultimately drove my Z like I do now without following a break in - not that I was redlining it all the time though. The engine has already been run in at some point along the line.

ZoomZ · 01-25-2017, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MCDX

Is it really THAT important? What does it improve?

Mr. Engineering Explained also doesn't clearly mention any technical details on this point.

My background is Aviation. Air cooled, Piston, N/A aircraft engines are completely different beasts. They are nothing more than large lawnmower engines. Relatively speaking.

Having said that, they are still engines with pistons, rings, valves, camshafts and bearings

To put it simply without too much technical explanation:

avoid travelling at a single speed or RPM for prolonged periods since varying engine speeds are vital to proper break-in as they expose internal parts to a wider range of heat, pressures and stress. (notably the piston rings.)

In todays cars, I'd narrow down to the two more important important terms: Pressure and stress. Heat should not be an issue in a proper Water cooled system. (unless of course you decide to break-in really hot weather.

That brings me to the next argument. The 4000 RPM for first 1200 miles is Determined by Nissan to cover a wide range of users and climates and scenarios

It assures proper break-in, without overheating or excess wearing if conditions become extreme.

Hotrodz · 01-25-2017, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZoomZ

My background is Aviation. Air cooled, Piston, N/A aircraft engines are completely different beasts. They are nothing more than large lawnmower engines. Relatively speaking.

Having said that, they are still engines with pistons, rings, valves, camshafts and bearings

To put it simply without too much technical explanation:

avoid travelling at a single speed or RPM for prolonged periods since varying engine speeds are vital to proper break-in as they expose internal parts to a wider range of heat, pressures and stress. (notably the piston rings.)

In todays cars, I'd narrow down to the two more important important terms: Pressure and stress. Heat should not be an issue in a proper Water cooled system. (unless of course you decide to break-in really hot weather.

That brings me to the next argument. The 4000 RPM for first 1200 miles is Determined by Nissan to cover a wide range of users and climates and scenarios

It assures proper break-in, without overheating or excess wearing if conditions become extreme.

This is the only point that was made to me by a lot of folks that know more than me!

ZoomZ · 01-26-2017, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

This is the only point that was made to me by a lot of folks that know more than me!

There is one more thing about piton ring wear, that for the life of me, I cannot find the drawings and explanations/details for.

In short, when you hold an engine at a constant RPM, the piston/rings tend to "Harmonize" in 1 spot on the cylinder walls. Causing wear on only this portion of cylinder wall.

By varying RPM, the pressure changes, and the piston/ring will "harmonize" on a different portion of cylinder wall.

I don't know if this makes sense and I wish I could find the illustrations to prove it.

Also, it may have only applied to cylinders which are 'choked'. Can't remember.

Hotrodz · 01-26-2017, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZoomZ

There is one more thing about piton ring wear, that for the life of me, I cannot find the drawings and explanations/details for.

In short, when you hold an engine at a constant RPM, the piston/rings tend to "Harmonize" in 1 spot on the cylinder walls. Causing wear on only this portion of cylinder wall.

By varying RPM, the pressure changes, and the piston/ring will "harmonize" on a different portion of cylinder wall.

I don't know if this makes sense and I wish I could find the illustrations to prove it.

Also, it may have only applied to cylinders which are 'choked'. Can't remember.

Agreed....that is what I have been told!

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01-25-2017, 10:06 AM	#1 (permalink)
mults A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Cleveland, OH Age: 70 Posts: 1,830 Drives: 2010 (40th) #706 Rep Power: 16887	I've been driving for over 45 years, and I've always broke-in the car the way that I would ultimately drive it. However, I would never red line it or try and lug the engine. In all these years, I've never experienced any excessive oil burning, or any other internal engine component failures. I think the key is to change RPM levels on occasion. All of this helps to seat the piston rings and that's what the break-in actually accomplishes. JARblue, wideglideleon and ZoomZ like this. __________________ 40th Anniversary 'Z', 312.06HP/260.58TQ (Dynosty EcuTek Tune) Build Date/Number: 1/27/2010 #706 Berk HFC + CBE, R2C CAI, Clear Bra, Cleveland Z Club[/COLOR]

01-25-2017, 11:58 AM	#3 (permalink)
Zthirty4NISMO Base Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: South Dakota Posts: 221 Drives: DRKNITE Rep Power: 11	My Grandpa would always do a hard break in along with giving it hell on the test drive so I ultimately drove my Z like I do now without following a break in - not that I was redlining it all the time though. The engine has already been run in at some point along the line. __________________ 2014 370Z NISMO #0543 - Magnetic Black on Black on Black Always Dry \|\| AROSPEED \|\| Covercraft \|\| CoverKing \|\| EVO-R \|\| Fast Intentions \|\| FilterMag \|\| NISMO \|\| ONEighty \|\| Prismatic Powders \|\| RJM Performance \|\| The370Z.com \|\| Trackspec \|\| ZSPEC Design \|\| ZSPEED Performance \|\| Z1 Motorsports \|\| Panaflex Carbon Ceramic Tint

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