Battery drained twice in three days. Heard clicking noises by the passenger side

f00d4tehg0dz

Alright, I got my car jumped. The in dash battery meter is staying at 14V. So that's a good sign. I reset the windows (several times) so well see about that.

I see the battery meter move over the 14v dash mark to the left and right slightly. Depending on if I have a/c on, stereo etc.. turning them off the meter moves to the right more. So that's a sign that the alternator is working I believe.

SouthArk370Z

I forget what the minimum voltage is supposed to be but it's close to 14 and a half volts; range will be in FSM. I'd double-check the voltage using an OBD/CAN scanner and/or a handheld voltmeter. If the voltage is OK, I'd check the battery posts for corrosion, looseness, &c.

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f00d4tehg0dz

Appreciate it. I can't imagine why the dealership didnt' notice this when I took it in Monday for service regarding a battery issue...

I just went to start this morning. Its still charging. Sitting at 10V right now, can't start it up. So waiting for it to fully charge still.

SouthArk370Z

If you have the charger connected to the battery post connectors, that sounds like a bad battery or bad connections at the posts. Clean the posts and connectors (you can find a tool at most auto part stores that has male and female brushes of the proper size). A very thin coat of bulb grease on the mating surfaces will lessen corrosion in the future.

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f00d4tehg0dz

Alright, I'll go and get brushes at autozone to clean it up once I can start
Nissan on Monday said the battery and cells tested just fine (ugh, its a 4 yr old battery now). Should I just go buy a new battery from autozone at this point? Or go to the dealership and buy a battery there

SouthArk370Z

I'd check the electrical connections and verify that the alternator is putting out correct voltage first, but, yeah, it's quite possible that the battery is bad.

I've heard of cases where a battery would pass the test but still not function properly in the car.

You should be able to get a battery at an auto parts store cheaper than what a dealership will sell you one. Same for most other parts.

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Ghostvette

Time for a new battery. Factory batteries at that age are just waiting for a good excuse to quit. I put an Optima RedTop in mine not to long ago, then stuck a tender on overnight.

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f00d4tehg0dz

Good news. Let the car charge some more, and it wouldn't' go past 10-11V. (Obviously battery is dead at this point then). Get the car jumped, drive over to Autozone. We disconnect everything, and test the battery. Reads bad. So now we know the big culprit! Also funny thing. On red tag for the positive connection is a warning label about windows and other items not properly initializing due to bad battery or low volt.

Anyway we remove the old battery and go to install a new one. I was planning on an Optima... they literally only had one battery, a duralast in stock for my car, the ****? Ah well... we installed the battery, cleaned the connections and everything is good now. In the future I'll order an optima Redtop online and be done with it. FYI the guy told me that batteries in FL only last around 44Months typically. Good thing to know.

Thanks everyone for the help! Fingers crossed no other issues arise.