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this is a lease right? so much work into it...
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Finished the vents :).
I got 22g steel and cutout the hole and to fit the windows shape. I had some 2.5" SS pipe laying around that I then tac welded to the steel. Then I bondo'd filled the gaps for an air/water tight seal then plasti dipped everything because that is also water proof. Then I siliconed in front and behind the steel for a water tight finish and used self tapping screws to secure it to the body. The air flow in is very great because the 2.5" pipe is at the back of the vent. It acts like a big parachute and funnels all the air into the pipe. The rear brakes should remain pretty cool :tup: http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps9eece246.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psb0e2c1ed.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps3a646bfe.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps1363c910.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps05a2f5ca.jpg |
Looking foward to your canards dude!!! :tup:
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Thanks. Not sure if I move on the 30th so no orders being placed yet.
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Carbons been ordered and on the way. I paid more than I wanted because I decided on 3.5mm. Other canards are thinner from measuring friends but theirs are more 3D. Like steel is stronger when bent, so being only 2D I wanted thickness for the shape. Might be over kill but whatever. Also I bought from a company that sells mint pieces and scrap pieces. I couldn't get the perfect size, thickness, and weave I wanted in the scrap so I had to shell out $84 shipped for the mint one. O well, I'll post pics when it's here.
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want to see that :)
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looks awesome dude!!! nice work!!
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as much as you make me laugh with some of the terrible work you do.. those canards... actually look legit..
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So where did you order the materials?
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how did you come to the optimal angle to provide absolute and correct down force?
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Nice info about the canards dude!!!
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Thanks.
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canards actually look good ... good job.
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Sub'd
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This thread is hardcore.
Is the center lower bumper plasti dipped or was a plastic piece fabricated and put on ? |
Can you post up a picture of your loop to bypass factory oil cooler coolant lines. Thanks!!
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Thats one hell of an exhaust! Loving it
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Made this months ago, finally got around to installing it. After cutting out the factory grill which I thought was to restrictive, I made a frame and installed some grating so my radiator and stuff is protected from rocks and such. It's very nice!
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psae496050.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps84b2de48.jpg |
looks good
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Decided to paint my whole car with rattle cans! :stirthepot: The car was originally metallic silver (I wanted white but hate pearl white! Next to real white, pearl looks yellow) but after an accident where I had to replace the passenger quarter panel, it came primered black, so instead of having the quarter panel painted to match the car, I decided to just paint the whole car with plasti dip matte white.
The plasty dip looks good, has held up okay and is easy to fix with dip fix but when you touch up a spot with spray cans, the over spray makes fuzz on the car. And if you mask off sections to protect from over spray you get a clear raised line. With plasti dip you need to paint a whole panel after a fix and white needs like 100 coats to cover! I'm just tired of fixing and the last reason is I just miss smooth gloss!! If you want to plasti dip pick a dark color!!!!!!!!!!! http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps6a157be2.jpg Ok to start...red scotch bright pad to scuff the clear coat off of your less than 1 year old car. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps4cebc27a.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps8be6c0d8.jpg Next, primer after you clean the surface with acetone. I did about 3-4 coats. First ones lighter, then to heavier ones. After several hours I wet sanded with 600 grit paper till it was baby smooth. After 48hrs to harden I then cleaned the primered surface with isopropyl alcohol. Then I sprayed about 3-4 coats again light to heavy with original Chrysler white from duplicolor. It's the 4th white I tried and whitest white I could find. After another 48hrs I wet sanded with 2000 grit paper. You can see all the orange peel which is why I had to. You want to sand out all the shine till its 100% dull. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psd24a65b3.jpg Still shiny http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psc9fd878a.jpg Just right http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps7f2a8e39.jpg Then I used Maguires rubbing compound with a rough wash cloth. You can already see a night and day difference! http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psb9237390.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps15552c46.jpg Then I used Maguires polishing compound and a micro fiber rag. Looking very clear!! http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps5bcab15f.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps900ab753.jpg Last I still need to wax it with Maguires carnauba wax after its hardened a few weeks. Not bad if I say so myself. The rest of the panels will be done one at a time. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps934f8821.jpg |
Decided to change out my cai system that uses the OEM MAF section. It's only 2.35" ID which matched the throttle body. Now that my TB is 2.48", I need to have the piping bigger. From the way I understand it, your intake should taper down in size and not up. Tapering down would increase air flow like air going through a compressor on a turbo. I'm going with 2.75" OD pipe or about 2.63" ID. That should have the system bigger than the TB and really help. I bought new MAF housings and they showed up today. Only $40 on ebay. I'm still waiting on the pipe. I'll post pics soon.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps893593c6.jpg |
great choice i use the same wax :)
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Ok all done.
Instead of running the CAI like the Stillen I had before, I decided to change it up a bit. Since my piping is now bigger I also want it to flow faster and better. So I took out the 90* bend the pipe took to sit behind the bumper and kept my 45* coupling and ran the filter down into the wheel well. Bigger, better, faster, more power!!!! http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps67250005.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps7a02e025.jpg Since I won't be able to drive to the tuner with the new MAF housing I modded the system so I could drive there with the OEM MAF housing and right on the dyno I can swap it out to the new MAF housing. August 8th can't come soon enough! http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psf50506a1.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps67dc8ef9.jpg Here's everything I took out. I even re-ran the AOS lines which saved some weight haha http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psfc5649b4.jpg |
Sweet build! But unfortunately tapering down your intake tube size will not increase your intake flow. It will only increase the air velocity at the taper point. The flow (volume of air going to the intake) will be the same. It's best to keep a constant tube diameter to retain a less turbulent flow.
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So I finally got tuned today at Smokeys and I believe the 2nd here. Although the old tuner is gone for reasons that aren't good I guess. To my great surprise the car was still rich! It was rich stock I'm sure, rich with a CBE and CAI, rich with a LTH, and rich with ported TB's, ported upper and lower manifold. Average looks to be around 11.6-11.8. That sucks because I was taking it easy for fear of being lean for like 3 weeks after the manifolds and TB were installed.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps46d1e01e.jpg Now after the tune its running around 12.6-12.7. The tuner said some run into the 13's but we felt safe with it turning into a track car to not make a dyno queen. I was told timing had been picked up around 3-4 degrees and there were some issues with uprev. The data logger was acting up only getting some of the items at times and the 2013 ROM wasn't doing what he wanted it to do. He would tell it to do things and it wouldn't 100%. Pretty much took all day after waiting 2 hours for uprev to email a license and some other things then start to build a new MAF map. Since the car was rich he did a base run pull with the OEM size MAF housing so we could see a before and after on his dyno. I've never been on this one before and never heard of it. It's called a superflow AWD and uses something called STP instead of SAE or STD. After the base he started turning everything up. We swapped the MAF from 2.5" to 2.75" and finished it up. Results look to be around 15hp and 6tq at max peak with around 15hp and 15tq above 4500rpm in the mid range (minus that base run boost from 6300-7100). Pretty much what I thought a NA tune would do. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psbf160a73.jpg Next I have to get back on the dyno I've been to a few times before and really compare all of them!! Mods. Customs 2.5" true dual CBE straight pipe LTH Custom 2.75" CAI 63mm ported TB Ported upper mani Ported lower mani |
Found some pics online
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psc9a5497c.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pse76818ad.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps7ebdb480.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps777bec11.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps9cb00443.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps84b88f57.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps6548118f.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps43f247da.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps08f29c88.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps54cf5916.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psd1afc291.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps074516b1.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps321cb680.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps455520fa.jpg |
nice splitter dude!!! :tup:
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Outstanding craftsmanship on the front bumper assembly.............First Class...
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cant help but think those ducts for the brakes arent getting any air through them. Needs a more forward facing position
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That front splitter is sexy!
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