What was the winning numbers? Pretty high numbers in the NA thread with the amount of mods.

322 whp.

yeah, 322 yesterday. It was pretty hot and I had giant sticky tires on heavier wheels than when I got my 342. The next closest was 310, and I was only 50ft lbs tq less than a stillen supercharged one.

Mike, I hit 320 with a header leaking at about the same ambient. That was with an EVO3 exhaust. I'm running a non res FI exhaust now and ported Z1 beta plenum. I need to swap out the header to see if it's in the actual unit. Are you the highest NA hp car so far with the Z1 headers?

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk now Free

Any dyno charts with that plenum?

My best friend has those Raijins on his Audi S4. They're a nice wheel, wouldn't have been my first choice for a track wheel, but they're very affordable and plenty tough.

I'm actually planning on putting a set on my wife's Explorer (tow vehicle) because they're cool, and their load rating is actually higher than the Explorer's stock wheels.

and most importantly, they were in stock and available! They weren't my first choice, but they also won't be pushed hard that much. I'm going to do one dry session on them at VIR next week to get a little wear on them, then wet stuff after that. The tires were still very slippery in the 5 wet laps I did yesterday, since they were brand new and there was a LOT of standing water.

http://imageshack.us/a/img707/38/w883.jpg

Say hello to my friend Dominic! He's got a blue 350Z TTB #315. He's fast as hell and a really nice guy. I was supposed to go on the trip with him but I've got a trip to Japan to pay for. :)

Mike, would you happen to have a bronze to do my brakes in that would match my wheels?

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...Z/S1035150.jpg

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...Z/S1035152.jpg

Sweet wheels

I've got this:
http://thepowdercoater.com/gallery/a...77976184_n.jpg

I could get a non metallic candy probably too.

On another note, either I no longer have ABS, or the XP=12 pads on 245 RE-11As overcame the ABS computer because the car in front of me braked much earlier than expected the other day and I left two 15 foot black marks on the track, and flat spotted the tires.

Also, my car is too loud for Atlanta Motorsports Park, as I got black flagged when only running at 75% with bumpy tires in the next session.

Don't you just love lumpy tires. :icon14: What are you going to do with the exhaust? Leave alone, or change it?

leave it alone. There are enough other tracks within a 3 hour radius that I don't need to go there. Its a nice track, but I stay busy enough with Barber, Road A, Roebling, CMP and even VIR.

Mike, when you did brake to you always get on them so hard that the ABS would kick in? Just trying to figure out some things.

nah, in an inbetween session where I was doing a lead follow with some students, at slow speed, I actually went off the track because everytime I just tapped the brakes, they were locking up.

ABS rarely ever engages when I use the 295 hoosiers. They just STOP! However, I had no issues with these tires in the dry at VIR the previous week. It was 32 degrees out though.

What's the theory on "overcoming the ABS" with a certain setup? I didn't think that was possible (for the setup to trick ABS into never engaging and letting the tires lock up), but then again lately I haven't gotten into my ABS at all, either. At first I thought perhaps my ABS was just disabled from all the other stuff I removed (e.g. the airbag controller and the VDC yaw sensor, etc), but Travis said it should still be working in theory if I don't have an ABS light on the dash (and I don't).

So then I figured it was just me: perhaps I've developed an instinct to never push the braking force hard enough to trip ABS or lock up the tires, and that's why I never feel ABS pulse anymore. However, in light of that, I went and did some testing on an empty road a couple weeks ago and intentionally tried to slam on the brakes "too hard", and it seems that I can lock up the system without feeling any ABS pulse kick in (but I let back off quickly so as not to tear up the tires too bad - maybe it would've eventually kicked in?).

I'd kinda rather not have ABS anyways, so I'm not too concerned, but I do wish I understood the situation better. (I'm on 275+295 relatively-crappy street tires, and some hardcore CL pads in Stillen's APRacing calipers, btw - there's a lot more pad grip than tire grip I'm sure).

It's the only thing I can think of. 33 degrees out, 245 section re11s and Xp12 pads. In the past though, ABS has engaged with these or other street tires and the same pads

I never can feel the ABS pulse on the 370... It's so faint.

This

I thought about this till I found all hydraulic hose is only rated at 212*. Some kinds say -40 to 212* (248* max) but still, I wouldn't want it failing on the track since oil temps can get high!

Using the proper fittings made for R14 SS hydraulic hose, you can do the same thing and it's rated to 450*.

Stainless Steel Braided Hose | PTFE Hose | R14 | SAE 100R14

I run the Z1 kit now for my oil cooler.

O cool.

Hey the apr gtc 300 broke on you right? Ever find out why and did they say anything about it?

yes it did. they said they had never seen it happen before and didn't know why. I have heard there have been others too though. They sent me a new one and I promptly sold it and got an aeromotions. the aeromotions has a solid aluminum core.

Probably so does the kognition since guys can stand on them? Thanks.

Still had the ABS issues today at COTA. I thought I have always had the ABS, VDC, SLIP and Air Bag lights on in my cluster.

Checked out the entire car in the paddock and it looked like the left rear abs sensor was shorter than the other side. Also, I have a small leak in the differential at that axle.

After removing the sensor, it looked just fine, so I did another inspection and realized that my stub axle had come unseated and was about a 1/4" out farther than it should be and the sensor wasn't lining up.

After consultation with Spencer at Z1, he told me how to reseat it, which I did, and did a little test drive and the ABS light went out, so apparently it isn't always on. I drive the car so rarely though, that I couldn't remember if it was or wasn't.

Anyhow, it was cold and freezing drizzle in the morning and still cold but dry in the afternoon, so I ran gently without ABS. Going to be in the 60s and 70s the next two days, so I should get to have some fun now.

Also met Brandon (WSTAR) and Chris Slicks is coming out tomorrow to meet us.

Awesome! Yup, that will definitely screw with the ABS system and cause it to not work at all from what I've heard. Good luck the next couple days!

How do you reset? I have ABS light on now. Seem to be on after coming home from the dyno. I think I have my steering system all out of wack though. But it had been fine hit weeks till the dyno, so not sure. It's been played with a lot. I assume I need this off before track day.

Edit: I think I just need to drive the car around cause I know the dyno will make it happen. Next project is deleting the ABS.

Get any single outlet master cylinder with a compatible bolt pattern (pretty generic) and run it to a T, then run the two outlets, one to another T for the fronts and the other outlet through a prop valve to a T in the back. Badabing badaboom.

Or run a dual master pedal box, I expect the pedal effort will be... Substantial.

Yea Megan posted a pic of his setup.

Link?

It will reset itself once the problem is fixed. I highly recommend against deleting ABS, at least without changing the entire hydraulic portion. Without ABS the tires lock with very little pedal pressure. I couldn't drive it past 70% of my normal abilities.

You definitely need a prop valve to help dial in the F:R ratio.

Megan's setup incorporates one, though it is mounted in the engine bay since he keeps the factory hard lines. I guess he has a remote cable mounted to it, I'd just rather replace the hardlines with new SS lines and run the prop valve inline, inside the car, if I were going to do that.

I believe it locks easily cause there's an error and the ABS is still installed. But with it removed and a rear proportional valve installed it works fine. This is what Megan has done. But his still testing also. But so far it's been good. There's really no way for the ECU to control brake bias if there's no ABS

I just don't see any advantage to dropping it.

I haven't went on the track since I did that ABS delete with a proportional valve but only driven on ice and snow which helped setting up a baseline for this summer..

I remember when I was running in 2012 before I blew the engine, I feel the ABS system never liked any hard braking bit over 1G. *almost a guarantee for ice mode after*

I'm quite anxious to see the difference in June.

its weird how some have ice mode and some don't. I've never gotten it and neither has Spohn.

I regularly get over -1 g in braking.
http://imageshack.com/a/img839/1395/2u9x.png

on a side note...
at what rate does your cell use the GPS, 1hz ?