Is this still available?

29. Nismo RC Mesh Grille Screen, P/N 62851-RTZ40, $438.89

I don't have the latest catalog. So I can't tell you. You can call them at 1-888-833-3225 between 9am and 5pm CST. Think that number is still good.

You got some good stuff back in the day. I was looking at the Nismo RC brake ducts again. LOL

Yeah, I did. :icon17: I got my stuff when Paul StClair was the head of the motorsports dept. I got stuff at half price. :eek: When he left. So did my discount. :shakes head: For awhile after him. You had to jump through hoops to get stuff. :shakes head:

Arm is feeling good. So I started working on the Nismo again. :tup: Have the diff pulled and installing the OS Giken diff. Here are the major torque specs that you will need. :tup:

Caution! The manual reads Nm (Kg m, Ft lb) when looking at the diagrams.

Drive shaft - 74 Nm (7.5 Kg m, 55 Ft lb)
Side Flange - 79.4 Nm (8.1 Kg m, 59 Ft lb)
Fill plugs - 35 Nm (3.6 Kg m, 26 Ft Lb)
Front mount bolts - 100 Nm (7.5 Kg m, 74 Ft lb)
Rear cover stud - 110 Nm (11 Kg m, 81 Ft lb)
Bearing cap - 93 Nm (9.5 Kg m, 69 Ft lb)
Ring gear bolts - 78.5 Nm (8.0 Kg m, 58 Ft lb) plus 31 to 36 extra degrees. This is closer to 100 ft lbs. Some a little less, some a little more.

Instructions for the ring gears bolts. From the manual.

Apply thread locking sealant into the thread holes of the Drive gear. Use Genuine High Strength thread locking sealant.

Apply anti-corrosion oil to the threads and seat of the mounting bolts.

Tighten in criss-cross fashion.


Pictures later tonight. :pics:

Pictures. :tup:

1st. Stock diff opened up.
2nd. Stock cover.
3rd + 4th. Measuring back lash. .0025. Should be .005.
5th. The left side stud flange. The right side stud flange. And the replacement for the right side flange.

1st + 2nd. Empty diff.
3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th. Installing the new stud flange seals.

1st. OS Giken ready for install.
2nd, 3rd and 4th. Measuring back lash. .0025. Didn't move.

1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Checking tooth contact. Not a bad pattern.

1st, and 2nd. Removing the old front bushings. So that I can install the SPL bushings.
3rd. The rear SPL diff bushings installed. I put the SPL bushing in the freezer overnight. My stock bushing wasn't leaking. It was FULL of silicone. So when I drilled into the bushing. I got a face full of silicone. :icon14: Used a drill and a burr bit to remove the center section of the stock bushing. Then a sawzall to cut the outer shell of the bushing. Then used a muffler tool on my air hammer to remove the outer shell. Then used a flapped wheel on a die grinder to polish the hole in the sub-frame. Smeared grease around the inside of the hole. Installed the frozen SPL bushing into the hole using all thread as a puller. The diff in steady to install at this point.

The finished diff. Ready for install.

Your gonna love it when you go for a drive. It will be much much harder to turn those rears over. The grip improvement under power is awesome. No more one wheel wonder.

Finished installing the SPL rear upper control arm bushings. Complete write in my thread. http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...on-almost.html

Here's a couple of pic's.

Look at all all those beauty SPL parts. :tup:

Love it...I have all of those minus the end links because I run no bar in the rear. The instructor I have at my last track event raved about how well the car handled. SPL FTMFW!:driving: