wstar's Journal

wstar

Random notes from messing with UpRev Tuner on my car (I left fueling and timing the way the dyno tuner set it up, this is just all the other little stuff):

1) Upping the Idle RPMs smoothed out idling with the AC on a bit. Probably wastes a little more fuel, but meh. It's a map by coolant temp range, and mine is set now between 1000 at the cold end and 775 at the hot end (whereas before it was something like 8xx down to 650).

2) The "ETC Off" under options is interesting. It completely disables the ECU's electronic throttle control, reverting to always having a linear relationship between the gas pedal and the throttle plates. Throttle response is awesome with it disabled, and low RPM acceleration feels more natural on the gas pedal. The downside is this doesn't allow the ECU to interfere with the throttle much at all, including SRM. And since with the 7AT you can't really blip on your own (it's never truly in neutral), this pretty much kills rev matching on downshifts, making them all jerky/shocky.

3) The throttle maps (which only work with ETC On obviously) are the "right" way to tune the throttle response without disabling SRM and other ECU interventions. Luckily they're per-UpRev-map, so you can try out different throttle maps on e.g. maps 1, 2, 3 with all the other settings the same to get a feel for how it works.

Wide open seems to be the value "3800", and it seems to need to go negative at low pedal position + high RPMs. Setting it to a nice linear ramp from the stock 1.3% pedal position numbers to 3800's around 95% throttle is much better than stock. Still not quite perfect though. I wish I could find settings that felt as good as "ETC Off" for normal accel / upshift at all ranges.

4) The torque map (for 7AT people only) is how you effectively adjust transmission line pressure and shifting speed. Basically the ECU needs an internal estimate of your engine's torque across different RPM ranges and fueling inputs (effectively, gas pedal position) in order to use the "correct" line pressure and shift speed for a smooth quick shift.

If you've done a lot of modding, the factory torque estimates are way off (and really, even on the stock car, the factory estimates are a little low, which contributes to low RPM downshifts being sounding so violent, and the little jerks when it auto-downshifts to 2 and 1 while coming to a stop).

Secret Services had already bumped my torque map values all up by about 10%. I found that bumping those values by a further 20% has worked out great so far. Shifts are both smoother and faster. Keep in mind I'm out at the limit of N/A bolt-on power mods, so values this high may not work as smoothly for a milder setup (e.g. just catback and K&N dropins or whatever). I may try going even higher, but I want to drive around on these values for several days first and make sure I don't spot any quirks under various conditions.

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