Nissan 370Z Forum - TravisJB Journal

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travisjb

10-01-2013 07:22 AM

Thx chris, 3rd is much faster for me through t5 but maybe mike is carrying more speed?

Forgot to mention i am rev limited to just under 7k. Limits peak rpm and helps with temps

SPOHN

10-01-2013 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travisjb (Post 2511319)

Thx chris, 3rd is much faster for me through t5 but maybe mike is carrying more speed?

Forgot to mention i am rev limited to just under 7k. Limits peak rpm and helps with temps

Mike defiantly carries more speed threw T5.

Mike	10-01-2013 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travisjb (Post 2511147)

while i've got the attention of some ra experts, let's talk gears by turn number

turn 1. downshift at end of straight under light braking from 5th to 4th then turn in with slight trail braking (i think this would be better with mid turn downshift with SRM on)... concrete patch in mid of left front wheel and stay just off curbing with right wheelcoming out of one, I line up on a light pole at top of hill. Start turn in for 2 crossing the first white lines, then brake for three in a straight line coming out of two

3/4. hug curbing maybe 2 feet off remaining in 4th gear all the way through these and then all the way through essesTurn 3, over the curbing, right wheel on the outside part of the curbing flat out. Setting up for esses, still in 4th until 5

5. setting up entry with straight line coming out of right hand ess, then downshift to 3rd under braking and accelerate rolling out to straddle curbing

en route... shift from 3 to 4, then 4 to 5 (for me this is a must about 1/2 way to turn 6)I only get to 4th, but am at redline on entry to 6

6. light braking with downshift to 4th... would be better with srm or perfect heel-toe, as right braking zone appears to be after initiating turnI downshift to 3rd while braking for 7

7. make a straight line on bank of turn 6 towards 7 turn in point, brake hard, down shift to 3rd while braking hard, hard turn into to apex (I over turn steering input to get the understeer started) then let the front wheels catch into straight line and get on it as car settles just before apex

long straight, i end up in 6th gear just before downhill if I came out of turn 7 as plannedI'm indicating about 149-150 in 5th at end of straight

10a. downshift to 3rd in the heavy braking zone, hard left turn with slightly late turn in to get somewhat on the left side of 10b turn in and get max speed coming out of 10b

10b... exiting 10b, shift into 4th hopefully before crest of hill... when I time this poorly I was hitting a divot on top of hill (driver under red mark in sign) and getting a little squirrely... usually shifting 20 feet before crestmy diff slips exiting 10b, it sucks also coming out of 7. I shift at top of hill, I think I line up on yellow on the sign.

11/12. straighten out at bottom of hill and shift to 5th before start/finish, hopefully not unsettling the car! I'm being a big puss in turn 12 and holding 3/4 throttle so my eventual shift point is probably soonerCrest hill and keep the wheel straight. Once going down hill and over the crest, stay left. There is an area that is slightly sunken on the left side at the bottom of hill, I start my turn-in there.

MightyBobo

10-01-2013 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travisjb (Post 2511172)

I'd like to have the option... at RA for example, new track to me and rather dangerous... SRM just takes one element of danger out of the equation... and as I get comfortable with a track I can take it off and practice heel-toe

Side note... Probably a controversial thing to say but I think 10 years from now only vintage racers are going to have manual trans.

I agree on the last part, to be honest.

Sent from my Galaxy S3

M.Bonanni

10-01-2013 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travisjb (Post 2510610)

Possible you were getting used to the slicks and how far you could push them? I'd be curious to see more data.

As I said, just relaying what some people at the Chin Road Atlanta event were saying about their own experiences and observed time differences at RA. My experience running slicks is only at two tracks, PIR and Chuckwalla. They were good for a couple seconds over my Hoosiers R6's at both of those, and the Hoosiers were good for a couple seconds over my NT01s.

Nah, it was consistently the same lap time all weekend long. It purely just made the car worse. A lot of times drivers do go faster switching to slicks just by having more confidence in their car thinking that they should be faster. Or many times the stickier tire helps cover up small driving mistakes and aggressiveness with their inputs. So perhaps I should rephrase that simply bolting on slicks to a car that is not set up for them will not make the car faster however it may make the driver faster. The car I was driving I was very comfortable in, very consistent in, and at a track I was also comfortable in. The car had almost a year's worth of setup on Hankook R-S3 street tires and we didn't make any other changes except the slicks. Obviously the smaller the jump between tires the less affect it has and also some cars will be affected less given their setup and suspension geometry. I could get a lot more technical and boring but you get the point.

travisjb

10-10-2013 10:48 AM

Garage upgrade on the way!

http://cdn.ammcoats.com/media/catalo.../coats_875.jpg
http://cdn.ammcoats.com/media/catalo...h3_xseries.jpg

COATS Wheel Balancer | Tire Balancers | Model 875 40MM
70X-Series Rim Clamp Tire Changer | COATS

Sh0velMan

10-10-2013 10:49 AM

Hardcore...

SPOHN

10-10-2013 10:52 AM

Very worth it in the long run. I hope to in the next couple years. There not to badly priced.

Rusty

10-10-2013 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan (Post 2522977)

Hardcore...

Very hardcore. :tup:

travisjb

10-10-2013 01:43 PM

Thanks. I'm excited about these. Between the Z, wife's car, truck, trailer, other vehicles, neighbors with track cars, etc, they will definitely be put to use! Plus, no lugging tires to some shop that doesn't get it done on time, scratches wheels, balances +/- 40% etc. Can't wait.

Mike	10-11-2013 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travisjb (Post 2522974)

Garage upgrade on the way!

I'm gonna talk to you about that this weekend. those are on my shopping list too.

travisjb

10-11-2013 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike (Post 2524230)

I'm gonna talk to you about that this weekend. those are on my shopping list too.

Sounds good. I'll be there from sat first thing a.m. and leaving before sat is over... let's catch up between sat sessions... white 24ft unmarked haulmark trailer + gray tundra

Mike	10-11-2013 08:44 PM

I'm in garage 18 and paddock room 18

wstar

11-02-2013 12:58 PM

It might be another year or so before I start looking at branching out from my local HPDE stuff and doing NASA TT (and rules might change again!), but I was starting to look ahead at car setup and points and all that so I don't do anything too stupid to the car in the meantime. I know you've spent a lot of time going over the NASA classing stuff for our cars, so...

Basically under the current rules and given that I've already done a lot of changes to this car that rack up misc points (and probably weren't wise from a classing perspective, but meh), it looks to me like even without going FI, TT3 is simpler to deal with and doable, rather than doing the TTB/A base classing mess. Just running down the numbers on the forms, it seems like if I guestimate my car around 3000lbs, then depending on tires (275s for +0.4, or bigger for zero) and non-OEM Aero (-0.5 in TT3), my HP limit in TT3 can be anywhere in the range of about 313 - 344, which is a pretty reasonable target area for our engine NA. So basically I could see what I end up dynoing for at that time, and decide on a tires/aero choice that matches my RWHP as close as possible.

But the numbers on the forms rarely tell the whole story. Would it be insane to run this car NA in TT3, even given that I'd be taking advantage of the freedoms elsewhere to make the most out of this car in that class within the basic prohibitions of TT1/2/3? Would it just be outclassed by the other usual cars in TT3?

travisjb

11-02-2013 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 2552241)

It might be another year or so before I start looking at branching out from my local HPDE stuff and doing NASA TT...

Yes, if you are NA and want to keep it "simple" then TT3 is a good choice. You will want to take full advantage of those aero points, or go back to stock aero and use a bigger/stickier tire. You could also pull mods off your car and shoot for TTA. Recommend you look at winning track times for the tracks you will be running at... The goal in time trial is to find the class you've got a shot at being competitive in with at least 5 cars consistently running on a given day (if you want to go for contingencies and bragging rights). I never win by the way! But I still like running in TT - creates a sense of purpose for the weekend.

Can't remember which trainy you have - there are points for automatic - can't remember what you have. No one has ever dinged me for SRM but then again mine doesn't work anyways.

wstar

11-03-2013 02:16 AM

I do have the 7AT. In the TT3 rules there's no points for an automatic paddle shift w/ torque converter, but there are for a true DCT. I think I'm probably getting a cheap advantage there under the current rules; they probably don't realize (in the generic rules sense) how much better our 7AT is than most any other torque-converter-auto with paddles - they really should charge it like a DCT :P

To be honest I probably won't care about the competition much anyways, I tend to be more into competing with myself :) I just don't want to be ridiculously outclassed all the time for whatever group they're writing me up in, and it sounds like some the TT3 cars are pretty intense. But yeah, I'll know more once I start looking at times on local tracks and whatnot.

Thanks :)

travisjb

11-03-2013 07:40 AM

NASA Time Trial

wstar

11-03-2013 09:27 AM

Ouch, I have some work to do to catch any of those guys. Even at the track I know best (MSR-H at the top of that list), I'm running ~1:50-55 and they're running in the low 1:40's. I'll get there though. I still haven't even moved up to real tires, my times are on 340 treadwear, so I'll use that as an excuse for now ;)

travisjb

11-03-2013 09:41 AM

good to have a target to provide some motivation!

SPOHN

12-09-2013 08:48 PM

Hey bud. What's the deal with getting the head light looking skins you have? I want to remove mine.

travisjb

12-10-2013 06:15 AM

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Carbon+Pri...ght+Cover+370Z

should be able to find them for $80 or so... follow this link

you'll need to make brackets to hold in place. warning: these will break easily. I don't have a solution for that, but I'm on my third set

sig11

12-10-2013 05:03 PM

Why not go the easy way and get a set of junk headlights and gut them? My 350Z "headlights" are like that and weigh next to nothing with the backs cut out. (Got them from John Evans/Laze1 when he got new headlights to be SZ legal since my headlights were ruined)

Though I may be confused as to the purpose from the link you posted. :)

travisjb

12-10-2013 06:30 PM

^ it's a good idea, Sig. When I did this didn't realize I'd be replacing them so often... OEM shells should be solid and hold up well.

SPOHN

12-10-2013 07:54 PM

Yea but finding a spare.

travisjb

12-10-2013 08:56 PM

can't remember who told me to buy a ruckus, but man I'm happy you did... love this thing! have been bolting all kinds of goodness on this thing recently - crappy phone cam pics follow

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps2a8ab114.jpg

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps924caf8f.jpg

travisjb

12-10-2013 09:03 PM

I'm going to order a custom hood vent from a company that makes them for snowmobiles, of all things. 2coolairvents.com

Planning to make a template that they can use... thinking of a simple trapezoid shape with three sides at 10" and one side at 14", like this...

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps420a256b.jpg

... but maybe it should be bigger? maybe a different shape? not sure really... thoughts? here's some examples of what they do on snowmobiles

https://encrypted.google.com/search?...%2F&tbs=imgo:1

http://www.snowest.com/forum/attachm...1&d=1318985330

wstar

12-10-2013 10:08 PM

Is the cardboard in-place where you'd cut for it? I've been looking at venting like that as well, but I thought it would end up a couple inches closer to the front (to line up the leading edge right behind the radiator, basically). I haven't marked my hood yet though, so I'm not 100% sure where the spot is from the top view :)

travisjb

12-11-2013 06:39 AM

I also haven't settled on the placement of the vent. Still have those manometers and ideally when it's not 22 freaking F degrees I'll get out there and measure pressure differential across the hood... you want to find the spot with the highest delta

SPOHN

12-11-2013 01:07 PM

Thanks again Travis. I ordered the covers.

Zless@arizona

12-12-2013 12:58 PM

Growth

Now you are sounding like a fluid dynamics engineer! ;-) Great job, Travis!

Quote:

Originally Posted by travisjb (Post 2604264)

SPOHN

12-23-2013 09:07 PM

Travis I looked at your walk around vids several more times. I saw what looked like three braces to support the headlight covers. Is that all you have done? Two are obvious. I keep thinking that I know at Road Atlanta I hit 140mph.

travisjb

12-23-2013 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOHN (Post 2622151)

Hey Chris. Yeah, three attach points for the headlight covers. I'll try to grab a pic tomorrow.

Sorry, you lost me on the 140mph thing... are you asking what my max speed is on the back straight? I'm shifting to 6th at 7,000 rpm with stock 6mt gearing... just as I crest the hill. Not sure what that works out to, but I'm sure someone around here would know. I probably pick up another couple mph's over the hill before braking zone. Over 150, I think.

SPOHN

12-23-2013 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travisjb (Post 2622182)

Thanks man. Yea I should of clarified better about the speed. I was trying to relate the amount of force/ pressure from high speed and having enough support/ bracing for the headlight covers.

travisjb

12-24-2013 09:27 AM

the mounts I use have been good up to 160mph, can confirm

SPOHN

12-30-2013 09:42 PM

Let me help you out. I'm already there and paid.

https://www.chinmotorsports.com/Even...jOQN0gV3u1k%3d

travisjb

01-05-2014 03:53 PM

better late than never on these pics

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwH...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwH...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwH...it?usp=sharing

travisjb

02-23-2014 08:43 AM

Had some fun yesterday at Road Atlanta... mechanical issues ended things early (again), which I'll go into below... first, here are a couple videos

First one is chasing a blue GTR with license plate "FORGED"... ~2:00 getting more aggressive on those corners and making up time... 2:30 held up at turn 7 then lost a drag race... 3:25 missed 4th gear... 3:55 drafting... 4:10 mechanical failure #1 left front locked up despite ABS being on (so I thought)

I decided to keep going... couldn't figure out what happened to the brakes, nothing visually wrong... lots of traffic, was having a blast... 3:38 had to catch one! now I'm feeling good... then, 3:48 engine starting cutting out... 4:40 will I make it back?... nope, 4:58 engine cuts and I ditch it... see blinking light? that's oil pressure, so now I'm worried I dumped oil

Will move the camera up 6 inches in the future.

travisjb

02-23-2014 08:51 AM

So, here's what we think happened... brought the car to CIN in Charlotte late last night on the way home from Atlanta... the Engine Room Harness runs along drivers side fender and carries signals necessary for ABS and pretty much everything else... as it turns out, my brake failure and engine failure are related! the harness had come loose and dropped down so that it was making contact with left front tire... from there, everything went south

http://www.courtesyparts.com/images/z34/z34_240-11.gif

I think that's something to take note of for anyone that has removed their fender liners... make an extra effort to secure any wiring harnesses that pass through in that area. Hopefully this post saves someone from a similar situation.

Will try to post picture later.

Megan370z

02-23-2014 09:10 AM

good !!! if its only because of the wiring harness ;)

The video brought me some old memories about an engine with a blown VVEL & Oil pump because it was acting similar to when your Z started to die.

travisjb

02-23-2014 09:12 AM

yeah, fingers crossed its just the wiring harness... jury is still out... the fact that the gauge was showing zero oil pressure was not a good sign, however, the oil temps were reasonable and suggest oil was flowing just fine

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