Looks good! Where do they mount the drive motor for the door? I'd love to convert mine to high lift so I can install a 2 or 4 post.

when you look at the pic, you can see a wire hanging down on the far left side... that's coming of the electric drive motor... it's a different motor than typical overhead motor.... i recommend hiring someone that's done this plenty of times vs DIY - my builder paid for it, but I don't think it was a lot of $

if your ceiling is tall enough, should allow for a 2/4 post lift... I may do that down the road, but for now this will give me room to lift a truck on my scissor mid-rise lift and not worry about clearance at all! :)

No I wouldn't DIY that one, just trying to get an idea of what is involved. I've got about 11 ft of clearance but right now the door track only goes up to 7ft or so. I had the new door put in about 5 years ago but wasn't thinking about lifts and such at the time, which now I regret.

Thanks!

Which reminds me, I'm looking into this, eventually:

MaxJax Portable Two Post Lifting System by Dannmar

http://maxjaxusa.com/image-gallery/s...ift-height.jpg

:tup: looking forward to seeing how it does!

^ good looking lift...

Z Fever Racing identified two primary causes of engine failure

1) the in/out were backwards on the sandwich plate adapter for the oil coming off the block, resulting in minimal oil passing that point and thus passing along to the oil cooler core and returning to the block... this explains pretty much EVERYTHING including a dead-*** engine... as it turns out, I have the mfgr of the sandwich plate adapter to thank, as the correct flow was opposite of the indicated flow... there will be pictures of this soon

2) normally the ECU would shut the engine down in the event of no/low oil pressure... if this happens correctly then item 1 above would be unfortunate but not catastrophic... unfortunately, a prior installer in the process of modifying the cooling system built a DIY wiring extension to provide more room for wiring going to the oil pressure sensor and another sensor next to it... one sensor gets +5V the other +12V (or something like that)... the two were swapped, thus eliminating the oil pressure signal to the ECU and thus bypassing the normal safety shutdown sequence involved with no/low oil pressure

Ah, the little things!

Travis

Damn. The instructions for the sandwich plate indicated flow backwards? That's pretty bad.

The wiring crap happens sometimes, although I doubt the stock low pressure indicator would have tripped as it is set pretty low.

Agreed. Now, I should mention that I am conveying information discussed over the phone, which is always dangerous... once we have pictures, should be more clear exactly which part and we can discuss which kit it came out of and which mfgr I have to thank.

Good to know... I also need to hook up an aftermarket oil pressure gauge... been meaning to do that for a while now

At first I was about to say "Why would the in/out-flow direction of the sandwich plate fittings matter?", because I guess it doesn't for Setrab-like coolers. I'm guessing the coolant exchanger you went to cares?

standby on this... may be the oil filter relo plate, or another that was not previously installed before the SC kit... and my component may be a 1-off error (mfgr error) as opposed to something widespread (design error)... will report back when I have more

Another update...

You all know the long awaited fuel starv product that has been discussed for two+ years now... well, I think we've got a simpler solution coming together on my car with full intention to quickly productize... that's all I can say for now - more later

:excited: Simple

Simple is good.

:ohsnap1:

^ not trying to be controversial, just wanted you all to know there's another option in development

So, here's the long awaited (at least by me! :)) dyno plot for my SC... bear in mind that I reverted back to the smaller blower

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...70z30april.jpg

There is no difference in configuration for run1 and run2... only thing that changed was HEAT SOAK... unfortunately if my car is impounded after a race it will be dyno'd cold... but in reality I will be running at the lower whp levels during a hot lap... so looks like I'm going to have to tune for 370 whp and ballast weight for 390whp to hit my weight/whp target.

Thing that's ironic to me is that your dyno pull is almost exact replica of mine with a Street legal Stillen kit and tune. Our cars must feel fairly similar on power.

Are you loving that boost on longer straights? My only gripe with 370z was lack of power on straights. With 400 WHP almost puts us in running with newer Porsche gt3s. I hacent tracked the car yet but in ax on faster straights I love that extra pull!

How are temps for you? I really think mild boost is way to go for VQ 37 crowd who keep the heads crazy robo cams. That way you keep revs at stock levels.

I'm thinking supercharged Z with higher boost pulley with boost relief valve might be real nice car for NASA TT. Have you looked at 928 motorsports boost relief valves? Wonder if they are reliable? I'm really thinking that is way to go as you can grab maximum low end boost and control upper end boost.

ZCG made a bunch of mods to my car this past week. zCG added vacuum booster and fixed my ice mode issues, Rob fabbed a fuel starve fix too with pump on saddle side and a little fuel can on other side. Switch the pump on during competition to keep fuel on pickup side. Added Nissan motorsports radiator, pulled AC, installed lightweight flywheel, upgraded clutch and throwout bearing. Interior stripped from seats back.

^reported

^ Reported for reporting.


Snitch. :p


:inoutroflpuke:

Mon-Tue will be interesting... hoping I didn't waste $600 on track day registration... going to be running VIR in 100+F temps. This will be a true test of my new cooling system (and driver!)

Hey my SRM is not working. Given all the car's been through recently, it's a minor casualty. But I do like the option of using it - particularly on a track that is new to me. Anyone know what the likely causes are? I'm imagining there's a wiring harness somewhere that was left disconnected. Which part of the service manual calls out the SRM-related wiring harnesses? Other possible causes you all can think of? THANKS!

did you do rear gears? I have heard that will make it not work, which is why I stayed with stock gearing on the diff change.

^+1

Chin is expensive but you do get lots of track time. Hope everything works!

Part of the SRM is mentioned in the transmission manual (gate sensors and calibration), not sure if there is a mention anywhere else.

If it were the gears that were the problem then you would be able to initially turn SRM on but then it would disable itself after driving when the speeds weren't as expected.

^ thanks for replies

The light comes on to indicate s-mode, but no SRM... light stays on

Gears are OEM

Just turn on the HTT (heel to toe). Lol

Lol! My HTT system is scary ugly

If you calculate track time by the minute, they are actually one of the least expensive!

I drove my car home from Z1 rather than trailering it the other day and didn't notice until I entered my neighborhood that SRM was turned off. I was naturally heel-toeing and didn't even realize it, although it is a ton easier on the street than on the track coming hot into a turn!

Travis,
Are you doing Chin at Barber next month? I'm going for the sunday only. That and Atlanta Motor Speedway July 21-22 with track guys, NASA at Road Atl Aug 4/5 and Roebling with Flatout on 8./18-19

:icon17:
I need to get with you those days to ride some. I'll talk to you about it next week.

Going to shoot for the NASA event... but only if I can get my car sorted... look forward to seeing you at one of these!

Today at VIR...

Good
- my god, the car is fast! and smooth power delivery... I so enjoyed dropping the hammer and being able to keep up with all the "fast" cars

- water-oil heat exchanger is working great

- VIR is amazing! my new favorite track... it is brutal for those that don't pay attention and rewarding as heck every time I would put down a lap was finding many many ways to improve... sadly, didn't get too far in today

Bad
- had a slight off road excursion... was constantly monitoring my temps (for good reason explained below), and unfortunately looked down just a moment too long... was heading for the field on left side of turn 1 and approaching track out at ~120mph. Made a split decision not to fight it and just ride in straight on out... was the right call as I think if I had gone off with a big slip angle things would have gotten ugly... VIR field is a roller coaster! my rear diffuser dug in hard and ripped to shreds... gonna need a new rear fascia... otherwise no harm done

- three sessions later... all of my sessions are ending after 3 laps due to water overheating... on the fourth session, I'm pretty sure I blew a head gasket (pretty sure)... so much steam vapor I thought the car was on fire and so did the corner workers... ditched on the right side of 13 and was ready to fly out of the car, but it turned out to be water vapors... I fault the airflow setup... radiator has plenty of capacity, it's just not getting any air... it's going to have to be boxed in and double that up with a couple dedicated hoses and I'm not sure what else but need to get a lot more cooling... car would not restart (why was I stupid enough to try? who knows!)

Again, one upshot to all this - the fact that I had boiling water and never over 265F is a testament to the water-oil heat exchanger...

Trying to be an optimist, but boy have I had enough maintenance on this car! My next race car will be the maintenance-free type

bummer about the HG.

I bet the car is insane on VIR. Should be an awesome track to hit once you get cooling sorted.

damn, hope it doesn't turn out to be more than just the head gasket. Turn one is where I hit the tire wall when my oil cooler line came off and soaked my front left brake.

If you love VIR, you will also love Road Atlanta.

Insane is right! Had lots of grip even with the 265 square Yoko setup I was running... amazing pull coming out of the Oak Tree turn onto the main straight!! :tup: scary going 145mph heading into the esses :eek:

By the way that reminds me... was finally able to dial in the right rear setup and the car was much more planted even with a square tire setup... SPL rear links are a worthwhile upgrade, long overdue for me

Me too!!!! :)

Actually, you went off at a legit corner... mine was much more stupid than that... call it turn 0 not turn 1... the slight and very fast right hander just past start finish... duh! *facepalm*

Anyone know where to order these?

http://i993.photobucket.com/albums/a...MVC-215S-5.jpg

One of them was a victim of my off road adventure today!

No kidding. You were running full course, right? The end of that straight is terrifying and requires 100% confidence in your brakes...even though you can scoot pretty good into the esses, you usually wind up going really fast by the end...I can't even imagine with the SC setup.

Yes full course... was running with Chin's "blue group" and was passed by a lot of the VIR regulars (mostly vettes vipers and race porsches) who went pretty much full speed into the esses... I'd need about 5 more track days to get to that level of comfort and even then not sure I'd do it with skinny tires on the back... there was a chipped and hoosier shod 135 that carried more speed into there than anyone else I saw - that car does inspire confidence at speed!

For easy reference...

http://trianglezclub.smugmug.com/pho...88_B8ZLA-L.jpg

I've never had the chance to wail on a 135 like that, but I feel like it would be scary at those speeds.

Taking those esses all out is one of those things that doesn't feel worth it to me, at least when you are talking a hobby car. Too much risk, plus if you wreck, you do it where people can see and judge you:icon17:

Not the kind of thing you just go out and try... it's all about adding 1-2mph entry speed until you get there... I know I was leaving a lot on the table given how fast I saw the 135 and a couple other cars going in... I have to say the back end of his car got a bit squirrely and that was with some serious meat hooks