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Wow this is just crazy I hope I am lucky my dam car has 3900 miles on it. I dont mind replacing the CSC,but dam master to wow. |
Squeeze both of this cars had 20 to 30k miles, so your prolly just fine.
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Jnaut I'll prob be calling you tomorrow. Is there an upgraded master cylinder available or are you just installing a new stock unit?
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Jon, if i end up building your car, ill get the master replaced under warranty so dont worry :) |
Well that is good news :tup:
At least if I know Joe is hard at work on it, I don't have to start looking and researching for a bigger capacity clutch master cylinder. Way to go Joe! :tup: |
Well Raul dropped off his z to get a few things done. One being a new battery/relocate so i snapped off a few photos of this...
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...t600/tn1-1.jpg http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...ut600/tn-1.jpg http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...t600/tn2-1.jpg after you put the carpet back down you see nothing and lose no trunk space. edit: wow my phone takes horrible pics!! |
Jay...Im sure it takes bigger pictures than that!
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I think once I get a new camera I'll donate Jay my old one lol.
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idk i lost my damn memory card for my regular camera...grrrrr
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Is that a PC680, mounted on the other side of the wall from how Travisjb mounted his? Nice spot for preserving the stock trunk setup indeed.
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Yeah, I got bigger pics via email and it's pretty smug and tied down in there. It's going to take 0 trunk space and the weight is in a nice place, not too far back. It's a pc925 not the 680. Jay recommended it due to the FI. Gotta keep a lot of stuff happy. I'm not really worried about keeping from becoming a projectile.
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Yep, it ain't going anywhere. But its where it belongs right on top of the rear axle and no loss of trunk space. I recommended the little larger battery due to his car with all options plus sc system.
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Need a magnifying glass to see those small pictures lol good work jnaut.
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Wow. I really want to do that same thing. Would sit really well next to my amplifier. :) How quickly do those batteries lose their charge? Are you stuck on a trickle charger if you don't drive every day?
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You'd probably be fine with the one RCZ is using, even if you have some minor stereo upgrades.
I use the smaller PC680 on an even longer positive cable run, and with my alternator 10% underdriven (20% Stillen underdrive crank pulley + 10% NST overdrive alternator pulley), and in the long run that setup works as long as you're mindful of what you're dealing with. By that I mean: it would work perfect if I *always* drove the car at least once every 1-2 days, and every drive was 30 minutes+, and I never burn down the battery level on accessories with the engine off (e.g. playing with the window up/down a lot while engine off). You start violating these constraints, and the PC680 will weaken a bit. Too many violations in a short span of time, before the alternator can make up for it, and you can easily find yourself unable to start the car. My setup was even more finicky (but still, not all that bad) before I added the 10% alternator overdrive pulley. That change was very noticeable in terms of battery charge/discharge patterns for me. Anyways, since I do violate those constraints on a pretty regular basis, I added a little Schumacher-style charging pigtail to my battery to plug in a trickle charger when I know it needs a little boost. I highly recommend the actual Odyssey-brand Ultimizer chargers for their batteries. They do a special charging cycle that works best with their own batteries, although I guess any high-quality charger which uses a charging profile designed for AGM battery internals should work (i.e. not some random cheap trickle charger from AutoZone). |
Good info there wstar.
For those of you who want to do the same thing, Jnaut will be coming out with a battery relocation kit that will look like mine. Install should be pretty simple and the kit will come with everything you need to do it in your garage. Priorities will be good pricing, quality components and ease of installation (with instructions). Will probably offer different batteries for you racers out there and some options like kill switch and remote terminals. ETA is probably a few weeks/month. We'll keep you guys updated. |
I like this...but, when you relocate the battery, dont you need a remote cut-off switch or something to pass tech?
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AFAIK, generally speaking, kill switches mandated by safety rules should cut the positive side rather than the negative side, and generally they need to cut all electrical function, not just the battery (so it's not enough to just put a switch inline with the positive battery cable: you have to kill power to the spark immediately as well, which I imagine means one or more of: switching off the alternator's output, switching off the ignition coils' input, switching off power to the ECU). On my jerry-rigged homebrew relocation solution, I put a 200A breaker on the negative side close to the battery (inside the trunk) as a safety feature against any sort of battery short-circuit condition, and to make it easy to disconnect the negative side when working on the car. It has never tripped when starting the engine, even on hard starts (long dormant + cold weather). But this doesn't qualify as a safety kill switch in any sense. |
It should be pretty easy to build in a kill switch on the relocation kit. Either I or Jay will let you all know as soon as we have something more concrete.
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Nice battery relocation mod, it looks like it was factory installed. Must be a nice bit of weight loss too over the large OEM battery, can't wait to see what Jnaut comes up with!
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I'm digging your rims a lot RCZ, the bumper, lips, spoiler, your engine... your ride as a whole. Cool pics BTW :tup:
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+1 on the wheels.
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A few Q's about that race-prepped 370, if you happen to know from talking to him:
1) Are those the Mine's ducts in the front bumper, but with the rear tube of them cut short to fit in front of the G3 intakes? Does that work out ok in rain or does he cover them somehow (or just never runs in the rain?)? 2) Any idea where the hood vents came from? They look like they're proper NACA shaped which would be awesome for some engine bay venting. 3) Does he have his harnesses mounted looped over the stock interior "strut bar"? It looks like it in the pics, but I thought that thing was too weak for mounting a harness to. |
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I asked the guy about ice mode and said he has never experienced it. I asked him about oil temps and he said no problems at all after oil cooler install. It looked like 25 row and a small trans cooler next to it since the car was Automatic. It was either that or it was a steering cooler... |
+1 on the wheels, really matches the PG
And it's nice to see that track 370z.. he has some cool stuff.. |
Out of curiosity, how'd you like the 1 M?
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I liked it, great engine and looks good. It has lots of torque and the engine revs smoothly. Interior is great, very very good materials. It feels exactly as if they took M parts and stuffed them into the 135. Suspension and chassis are a bit soft for the power, but overall it is a great car. Would I trade a stock Z in for one? more yes than no, but its not that much better than the Z. It has a lot of potential to be a very quick car though and the brakes really work nicely. Granted I've been driving a track biased Z for a while, but I got the feeling like the Z is just better planted and more confidence inspiring. Its an awesome car nonetheless, very good engine and tons of fun.
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Hey Raul, the Z looks amazing. How is the Stillen splitter holding up? I plan to pick one up this summer and am curious.
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looking great
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damn, bro i should have came down.... i didnt do a fuking thing around here... on the 1m you know i when i called u say i was trading in the z one that car. i even whet to put a deposit on it before it arrived. The n54 is great, minor tweeks now ur +400 tq's. gotta love that.pure sex.
u should have flogged ur car a little bit to compare lap times to ur last session. how did the 1m stock fair against ur old times? now, i also like the hood raul, yes maybe i little more venting, but something is better than nothing. lmk i may wanna get in on that as i am moving a lot quicker on my build...should have the motor out,built and back in with in the next 2 months also to everytbody else raul and I are finalizing the battery relocate kit should have more info up very very soon. |
I told you to come down!
Jay, you should at least consider turning that car into a road racing car, it will be bulletproof after the build and you and I both know its 1000X more fun than drag racing. Also 1000X more expensive, but its worth it. I like the venting idea too, this car definitely needs all the cooling it can get. Let me know if you want that hood, I know a guy haha. As far as times goes, that 1 M is definitely quicker than a stock Z I think. That little engine has so much torque down low and it feels super linear. Its definitely enough power to catch you by surprise on corner exit third gear. It comes with the M3's tires too, so that helps. You should go test drive it :) If it came in DCT, my car would be at your shop probably turning back to stock :) |
Installed my ESFOURTEEN clutch helper spring and it feels PERFECT now. I highly recommend it. Don't forget to at a little grease in there to keep everything quiet after you put it back together!
Stock wheels up for sale in the classifieds. Another update on my clutch disaster: Looks like the issue was caused by Southbend in the first place. Apparently the stock hydraulic system in our cars is absolute garbage. Its extremely weak. Some of the older 370z Southbend clutches have whats called a "marcel" which is a wave spring that gets sandwiched in between the pressure plate and disc...this was fine for the 350Z clutch (which is what Southbend uses on the 370Z) because it had a longer throw and therefore there would be enough gap for the marcel not to drag. Our cars have a shorter throw and that causes this clutch marcel to stay in contact even with the clutch fully pressed in/disengaged. I bought my clutch from Concept Z Performance, who had NO IDEA about what I'm talking about. I tried explaining but they didnt get it. All the new 370z southbend clutches have had this marcel removed so they assume I got one of the early ones (about 10 months ago) which still had the marcel in it. http://www.mooregoodink.com/news/wp-...-intro-pic.bmp As you can imagine, my shifter is super notchy and has trouble going into first gear from a stand still. So because neither of these two companies wants to own up to their mistake, I will be pulling my transmission off for the 4th time and the car will have to be at the shop while we send southbend my clutch so they can test it out and remove the marcel. Of course the stupid customer will be stuck paying the bill again. Thank god Jnaut takes pitty on me and is giving me a great deal to do this again. Also thanks to JOE from Z Speed for helping us with the CORRECT information about this, he was the one that found the problem some 10 months ago and the reason why it hasn't happened to anyone else. |
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This is not right, its a defect in the clutch. They need to do the right thing . |
Southbend said they would inspect it for free....how about sending me a new clutch that works so I don't have downtime Southbend???
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Do you think they care? If they did, they wouldve offered to help when I told them. Concept Z should have helped, they sold me a product that doesn't fit my car.
EDIT: I sent Coz an email to see if they at least will help me out with fixing the clutch now that we have finally identified they are at fault for the problem... |
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