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Still testing out the motordyne today. I'll have a better idea after the weekend.
My situation is a little different because I got a super deal on the manifold locally. The hood struts seem strong at first, they were very hard to compress and install. After the hood was closed for 24hrs it seems better, but I'll keep checking up to let you know. The hood comes up a little fast, but nothing crazy. Plus at the top it slows down so I don't think it would damage anything really. His brackets are strong, but I thing they would break before anything on the hood hinge would... |
your pictures come out really sharp and nice. what camera do you use if you dont mind me asking?
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thanks, love the reflections in your pics
I shoot with a canon T1i |
Been busy with my other car these past 2 weeks.
Finally ran my Accord on slicks, and I feel great running the time I ran. I've seen similar Accords run the same ET with 200+ more whp than mine. Time to turn up the boost, retune, and possibly a new cam. This car keeps my Z usable for daily use lol. |
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Great shots...love your set up. Wheels would just set this car off! :tup:
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Neat pics :tup:
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Thanks, I agree, I need wheels!
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i always tell you i love your rear....
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^^^ can you post pics of your CB7?
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http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5042/...7458b383_b.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...3/IMG_7424.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...3/IMG_7414.jpg http://i.imgur.com/DZXpX.jpg |
Update on the motordyne and ART pipes: I really like them! The mid range has gained a bunch, I can tell. Also the ART pipes help up top too, so they are a great combo. The exhaust is a little loud at times when its a cold start, or I'm in a parking garage. Other than that I love the sound. I still have the VQ hiss from 1800-2200 rpm when decelerating. No other rasp that I can tell.
Also, I installed my Cobb AP (got a deal with the manifold and the AP together from a local seller). Unfortunately, his car was an auto and the map did not install on my vehicle. Kastley came with a save though, and emailed me 2 maps for the AP that I could try out. I've only tried one, and its a 2010 Nismo map. Wow, the lower end is SO much smoother. The car runs awesome at part throttle, it almost feels like the car lagged without the map installed, but I would have never noticed it. The car is a blast to drive and even just to cruise; acceleration is effortless compared to before. I highly recommend anyone to get some form of tuning, at least with this combination of mods, whether it be Cobb for the 2009 guys, uprev, etc. The car felt fine to me before, but after the tune it is so much smoother. I really don't mind if I didn't gain any peak HP from the tune, the drivability is what sold me on this. |
damn had never seen actual pics of your Accord but that is CLEAN, oh and 12.4....most definitely moves!
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Lovin that pic one page back above the one you used for your profile pic too Boost. Very nice edits, I need to get into the HDR scene.
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After seeing this thread, I am sold on the Z being my next car purchase, second car to my Wrangler. Love the blue, now just to decided between that and the black cherry.
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Thanks guys. I think all mb owners will agree that this blue is much better in person and is hard to capture in pics. Black cherry is a nice color too though...
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Black Cherry my least fav. Everyone seems to love it though. Red looks pretty amazing too, sometimes I wish I went that route. Although I had to have the persimmon interior & a loud color so the blue was a no brainer:)
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DIY oil cooler is on the way.
CORE: I decided to start with the Tru-cool 24 row oil cooler for now. I only have 1 track day planned for the car; if I end up getting hooked, I can easy upgrade the core. If I decide that the track is not my thing, the small core will definitely suffice for street driving. I will try to take on M.Bonanni's idea, using a shroud surrounding the core to see if it helps with directing airflow. OIL SANDWICH PLATE: Since the car is not daily driven, and I'm in the TX heat, I decided to go with a non thermostatic oil sandwich plate. It freezes down here for a week or 2 tops. Not an issue for me. OIL LINES: For the lines, I went with 1/2" hose and -10 fittings, but I had them made today, locally, at a hydraulic shop. They had them ready 10 minutes after I ordered them on site. Thanks to 370z.com member 'Mike' for the idea. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2..._03/IMG222.jpg Don't mind my SSR table :icon17: All in all, I think I made out pretty well. The oil cooler, sandwich plate, and 3 fittings (they were out of stock on 1 90degree 1/2" fitting) ran me $96 from racerpartswholesale. The local lines and the 1 missing fitting ran me around $110. All I need is a sheet of metal for the bracket (which I have already in the garage), and some aluminum sheets/tape for the shroud. I like the idea of a $215 budget oil cooler, brand new. BTW, if I were to buy 10ft of -10 line, 4 fittings, and shipping from summit, it would have ran me $119. Plus I can skip assembly of the lines, not worry about stainless lines eating through anything, and have the peace of mind that these hydraulic hoses will handle the oil pressure that this motor creates. Hopefully all goes smooth over the next 2 weeks during the install |
Nice! Good on you for sourcing all the parts yourself, as long as you have 100% confidence in the lines you bought you will love never having to worry about oil temperatures ever again.
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dang Boost, you have been busy! I need to hear your car in person man...i think those were my ART pipes...they will take care of you, lol....we need to do a meet ASAP man
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I think they were yours lol. Sure man, one of these days. Might do the next cars and coffee in two weeks
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Here is the DIY oil cooler result:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...819_022409.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...819_022433.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...819_022443.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...819_022502.jpg And I decided to take on M.Bonanni's ducting idea, found here. I'm not real happy with the way the box looks, but you can hardly see it with the bumper on. Function>form on this one http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...819_025305.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...819_032652.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...819_032713.jpg This should force all the air through the oil cooler on that half of the front bumper opening. I don't have any real concrete evidence that it works, but some quick experimentation with a fan and a sheet of paper convinced me that it was well worth the <$10 I spent to make it. I'd like to get the most out of my small 24-row cooler. Maybe the ducting will put it on par with a 25 row Setrab/Mocal higher end unit. I won't be able to drive the car yet, as I am still looking for an oil filter. That is one thing I don't like about the Permacool oil plate. It's big and bulky, and looks like it requires a larger O-ring on the filter. I'm going to look into the following filters: Mobil1 - M1-105 / M1-207 K&N - HP1005 / HP2007 WIX - 57046 / 51381 / 51626 Purolator - L14619 / L17817 If anyone has experience with the permacool plate and a 20mm oil filter that works, let me know. |
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nice update on the oil cooler! i'll defiantly getting one soon, my oil temps are always 220+, where did you get the line made? think it might be cheaper to get all fittings and lines from a hydraulics shop instead of buying them from racer parts wholesale? i was planning on just going with modshacks diy.
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Excellent work Boost, enjoy your lower oil temps:happydance: +1
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The lines were made at Taylor Made Hoses, I can get you the address when you need it. They can have your lines made in about 10/15 minutes from when you order them. They have tons of options though, I went with the cheapest solution. I think I kept my invoice in case they need part numbers. as for the fittings, I had to buy one at the same place and it costed a little bit more than racerpartswholesale, so i would buy them online. And don't worry about figuring in shipping costs, since orders over $100 ship free from RPW. I would suggest getting the mocal thermostatic plate also, because of its size/fit and oil filter compatability. If you don't mind running a different filter and dont need the thermo plate, then the permacool will work. Quote:
BTW, I had to go with the STP S3985 filter since it was the only one available at the time. I could not find a K&N hp1005 or a Mobile1 M1-207/M1-105 locally off the shelf. Next oil change, I'll look into WIX and Purolator. Oil change took 6.1 qts to reach the halfway point. I'll double check the level today. |
haha yeah we need to meet up! i'll be free mon-thurs for reals now, hm i still need to get my swifts installed... lol
btw which fittings did you get from RPW? i only see the socketless and the reusables |
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I went with the steel ones I think I'm off this Thursday... |
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meet this thurs then? post it on the chat thread! |
Finally got my car aligned. I've been riding on these for 9-10 months, probably a couple thousand miles.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...827_180027.jpg I didn't get a shot of the final specs, but we got the rear camber down to 2.6 and 2.4, corrected the toe for the front/rear, and left the front camber as is. No camber kit or toe bolts were used at all, and I'll leave the specs as is since it is not a daily driver |
Awesome build thread. Motivating me to look into swapping out the stock lights for something a little better.
Such a great looking Z and the stock rays look great. I've got to look into some spacers as well. Keep it going man! |
yeah you can even see it in your avatar pic how much camber your runnin in the rear. Thats a lot.
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LOL those are close to track settings. I had pretty much the same specs until I did the alignment. Turns had to be a lot of fun :p
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thanks for the kind words
I have a track event this saturday, it will be my first ever. I think with 2.5 degrees in the rear, it should still be pretty good. I just want to have fun and come back with the car in one piece |
Car's looking good! I got around the same camber specs with swifts with no camber arms (1.6 in the fronts and 2.6 in the rears).
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