Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

gbrettin

Ok so I have one picture to show. Not really impressive until the full context of what happened previous to this post has been read. lol . My engine now has oil pressure! From what I can tell there are no leaks anywhere other than a possible bad ORB fitting on my Clearview Filter. I tightened down the fittings more to see if that worked but I'm also going to but 2 new ORB 12 to -10AN. No leaks on the turbo drains, pan (I dropped the gasket in kitty litter and had to clean it while rushing around the forklift), and most importantly the billet block on the pan! If the only thing I need is the 2 orb fittings on the filter... that's easy at this point.

Ok here's the exciting part.. To get the car oil pressure up I started it. WOW, it sounds like a pro mod! Other cars in the shop do not sound this spicy and they are built similar. I'm excited to get to the dyno now.


Inquiring minds about the oil... I used Amsoil 15w-50 for this engine and used Lucas 30w break-in. The break-in oil was cycled for about 30min total in the engine. The 15-50 will go through the dyno session and what ever mileage I can put on it this year before I drain it, I'm guessing 100-200mi.
https://www.amsoil.com/p/dominator-1...cing-oil-rd50/

redondoaveb

Great news! Excited for you. Let's hear it again

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Fast Intentions "Stage Seb" twin turbo #098- Specialty Z/Tial-Xonarotor/CJM/Ecutek/HKS/KW/SPL/Hotchkis/Rohana/Toyo
750whp/700ft.lbs

gbrettin

I took off all the ... ... Well, some of the cables off the positive battery terminal and terminated them to a 600amp (over kill) busbar. Everything is routed through a Quick Car disconnect in case my car turns into the burnanator. It took about 3hrs at the shop total to do all that was shown. I'm slow AF in the garage. Takes a bit of time to find tools, crimp wires, heat the shrink wrap, hog out the terminal leads (a tad) and bolt down the busbar. I stand there and think about possibilities because I'm not trying to drill my car a whole bunch.

I still need to ad some protection to the passthrough hole in the car... Or maybe Ill route them next to the MS3 power and signal bundle (just thought of that).

These are the items that really don't make it on to the build list, but take a chunk out of the budget. If there was a budget.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JG2C2QQ

gbrettin

Waiting on the shop, Auto Dynamix, to finish up welding my exhaust and wiring. On going waiting game that is getting old.

gbrettin

I missed some updates, albeit it isn't much.

The car had some oil drain issues with oil dripping around the ORB fitting on the maven mount. Also, the turbo drain line is really difficult to get on and off. After some searching I found that the "Fragola 491930-BL Dart LS Next -10AN Hi-Flow Oil Supply" Fitting. The reason why there was a slight leak was because the drain line wouldn't allow for it to be completely tight, although I thought it was, it was actually hitting the turbo. Additionally, the fittings are not touching the turbo housing which means less heat transfer. Since I was was messing with fittings... I had a small oil seeping issue on the ORB top fitting of the clearview so I went ahead and replaced both of them.

NO MORE LEAKS, PLEASE.

After that the car was lightly cleaned up and pushed (no tune to drive) to the other side of the shop for wiring (which you know I'm waiting on).

While in the pattern of waiting I decided to shift gears and order Varis side skirts. There was an option for carbon fiber side blade attachment but I really didn't see the point, (it's 600 more). I figure I can do a wet layup on the side blade for the look and then color match the turbo/brake with a pin stripe going down the edge. I've been thinking about these side skirts for years, infact... I believe I posted it in this thread way back.

Lastly, I've been talking to Betty, Spooler, Rusty, Redondoaveb... and a few others outside of here about options for a rear diff. Looks like over the winter I will put in an OS Gilken. That will be used until I can afford the complete Winters Quick Change components. I'm stepping up the rear diff to the OSG due to safety concerns due to how the VLSD reacts under power.... aka the threat of death.


One last note about the Clearview Filter... I was able to hit it with air to push all the oil back into the car. Pretty awesome having the option to see the oil and push the oil back for oil changes.

SteveVQ

Sick AF!

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'23 Camaro 1SS 6MT
'19 Camaro 1SS 6MT (Totaled by Red Light Runner)
'13 370Z Sport/Touring 6MT 328whp (Sold)

gbrettin

(Used the same text from FB)
Had a bit of free time today so I worked on my 370z cubby mount. One side of the mold is going to be used for a universal mold for boost gauges, small tablets, or what ever needs to be mounted. The other side is more specific to my car (don't worry about that). Anyway... I had to chip away carefully for a long while to get the plug out of the mold's death grip because I didn't sauce up the release wax good enough. 36 and 80 grit was used to knock down the face. After knocking the mold down there were some uncured mold bits that needed to be dug out and filled with extremely hot fiberglass.

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Let me say this here: This mold is awesome now! It may look not special but it's a beautiful sight to me. I was able to get the plug out which was a huge concern of mine, specifically gouging the mold. After MANY MANY MANY hours it's getting close. A Discord group I'm part of tipped me off to some polishing wheels for my drill so I will be able to make this mold ultra slippery to release. That will also help the final look too.

making a legit mold for CF is much harder than skinning parts.

Last thought... that fiberglass was WAY hot. I had all but 3-4min to work with it.

gbrettin

Welding progress, by Dave at the shop, and a bit of sanding on the mold. Passenger side welds look beautiful on the exhaust and waste gate dumps.

The mold is being tricky again. The paint is hanging on for dear life so I had to contact the manufacture of the mold material to see if I could use acetone. Thank god they said yes... But I'd probably need to use it anyway!

gbrettin

Still waiting on wiring... So I've worked on my mold. I really want it done considering the wiring will be done some year.

Desperation has set in on getting the paint chips out so the mold enjoyed an acetone bath. That cleaned and softened the paint but it wasn't exactly the silver bullet I was looking for so sanding is back on the menu! I'm using 120grit to remove and smooth transitions of paint. The center face of the mold has lots of soft spots for some reason. I used my counter sink drill bit to hit the soft spots, fiber glass fill, and then orbital sand back flat. During that process I've had pin holes, additional soft spots, fixed slight low spots in the corners. To deal with the pin holes I've switched to a lighter bondo. That appears to fill pin holes very well. I'm just going to need to leave a very thin layer of the bondo so that pin holes don't come back. I really need the exposed portions to look flawless...we'll see if that happens.

You're going to notice a huge chunk cut from the back of the mold. That was completely necessary so that I could get in and hand sand. That also made life easier with the orbital sander. I think I'm going to cut the back side just the same. Laying in CF will be much easier this way too because I will be able to locate the edge of the face much easier. Lastly I was able to find mechanical lock areas and soften all of that up (by sanding)

To be perfectly honest, I'm nervous about the sanding. I can't go too hard because it will take the part out of spec.

Last thoughts... My wife is not a fan of me stinking up the garage. It's getting pretty damn cold out there too so I'm hoping I don't need to bondo work too much more.

gbrettin

The mold really turned a corner for me. The face is clearly visible in the mold. Most everything has been sanded down with 320 grit which seems to be the turning spot to find imperfections.

All the soft spots are gone and pin holes filled. I need to cut the great wall located on the back side of the mold, I'm glad it's snowing now because it needs to be cut outside. On the face there were some low spots on the corners but they have been raised up with a bit of bondo, it wasn't terrible but it stuck out when sanding to a higher grit.

My confidence level has gone up with this mold. I still have some left over trauma from attempting the hood mold. *shudders*

Black Friday specials hit for Motion Raceworks so I went ahead and ordered the Twin Turbo CO2 kit. This will allow me to put dome pressure on the waste gates to make more boost with out having to change the springs in my waste gates. I already had the MAC valves ready on the car for the purchase so installation should be pretty easy.

Shot out to Richard C for getting me a link to a mount that will work for mounting the CO2 (before I put a cage in my car)

https://r1industriesoffroad.com/prod...inguiser-mount

https://www.motionraceworks.com/prod...harged-c02-kit

gbrettin

I checked on my car's wiring progress yesterday and it was more of a regression than anything. I let the shop owner of Auto Dynamix use the components of my 370z to diagnose the white 370z at the shop, which had REALLY bad wiring issues. I'm looking at it as paying it forward to the shop for helping me out with shop space; but, It's coming to a head where I need my car buttoned up now. I talked to them, they are on the same page now. I hope.

Now for my mold... I found a tiny soft spot on the face so I went after potential soft spots drilling additional holes and the soft spot. There would have been a spec on the carbon fiber face that would have bothered me. There's no better time than now to get it right. I laid down a real sloppy layer of bondo, it didn't go great because I was pretty salty about having to do it in the first place.


Today at lunch... I went for redemption. The bottom side of the mold was also cut down to make life easier laying carbon fiber. knocked down the crap layer of bondo, air sanded the ends somewhat flat and laid another thing of bondo so I can sand some more after work. I am less salty today.

gbrettin

Wrapped the mold up last night. I sanded up to 2000 grit and I could probably have kept polishing. It's good enough to pop a part. The feet look a little rough but I honestly don't care that much about them.

I was going to jump straight to carbon fiber but I honestly don't think that's the move. I have a bunch of chop strand fiber glass left over from my hood that I am going to use to test the mold out. That will show me any problem areas on the mold PRIOR to doing a resin infusion carbon fiber part.

SO, here she is. Thoughts?

gbrettin

CO2 kit came in... so I did what any rational human would do, put a sticker on it and tossed it in the car. By "tossing it in the car" I mean exactly that. I set it in the trunk.

The exhaust needs O2 bungs, I guess the shop was waiting on me to put the exhaust on the car and mark where. Well, I found out yesterday so I put the exhaust on lol. It's not where the X is on the pipe... I marked it after the pictures were taken. It's more in the middle away from the turbo so wiring doesn't get burnt. I'm also sharing the pictures because I can't believe how awesome the exhaust came out!

look at it...

I SAID LOOK AT IT!

Last picture the pipe slid down a little... I didn't have the vband on tight. Also, there's a trim ring that will go around the exhaust.... So it doesn't look like I used a wild beaver to cut the hole.

Edit - There's also some weeping oil from the turbo. I'll probably send the turbos off to get looked at by Turbonetics and also put a new gasket on the Maven mount if it is weeping further. Not sure if there were oil remnants or there's some bullsh1t leaks. One thing is for sure... It's not the crimped lines and new oil extensions.

gbrettin

Auto Dynamix has been extraordinarily busy, so that's a great thing! Down side was that my car was getting put on the back burner. My buddy Dave was trying to keep cost down and working on wiring during slow times or after hours.

With that said, I couldn't keep my booger fingers off of my car. I've decided to push the wiring as far as I possible can go. If I hit a stopping point Dave/Nick (shop owners) said they would point me in the direction for completion. With that said, I jumped into the thick of it all. This weekend I located my wiper assembly... well... most of it ... and hooked it up. I had to do some hardware store runs for some bolts/nuts but that's nothing new.

Accusump has been wired up. Power had to go all the way back to the car and get tied into the Leash Relay. A ground was ran to a previous ground spot which I pulled off the BCM wiring ground and put that in a more manageable spot. I added air to the back of the Accusump but I noticed the pressure gauge went down after a while. I'm going to hope that the valve is in an open position and the air went to the crank case. I guess we shall see.

All the OE wiring has been taped off so it's manageable. Passenger headlight and side marker have been tucked. Loom will need to be put on down the road. I'm not happy where the brake lines are at right now so I'm going to need to break the lines to run them differently. To be clear, I didn't leave the lines up top. A younger mechanic in the shop bleed my brakes and let it sit up there. Not sure why. What ever. I'm not mad.

Mold update... I went hard on an poly resin that has some fiberglass in it. I need to inject some more resin into the feet of the mold and put a few more layers of fiberglass on the back. After that is done I will need to drill the back side of the mold and hit it with air to release. Not terrible excited about that but atleast there will be one part that comes out of the mold (not the last either).

New radio came in, but I need to have iDatalink so I can use the steering controls. The car will also have an anti theft device installed somewhere annoying... Not going to post where that install is going. lol

- EDIT I'm going to swap the back hauling water lines to nice aluminum tube down the road.

gbrettin

Very small update but I'm posting it because it bugged me to no end. I re-did the ring terminals last night on my Leash Relay Board. The ring terminals were really close to hitting the other terminals and from the looks of it, if they did not go on perfectly they would hit. 5 dollars per box of #10 yellow and #10 blue terminals and I was in business. I removed the plastic off the terminals prior to crimping and then heat shrank the terminals. I tugged on all the terminals to make sure they weren't loose (none were). You may be thinking "why didn't you use the correct ring terminals?" Well, I didn't do the original terminals (neither did the shop owners at Auto Dynamix who normally do everything). SO, I'll leave it at that.

Another point I want to make is that progress can come in different forms on your project. Some days you make huge strides... Other days, you change ring terminals. Point being is that there is something done and that sure beats nothing.