Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

JARblue

tags r fun

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BettyZ

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'14 MB Nismo | Boost Lab 6870 1.32 AR 553 HP / 471 ft.-lbs.
Betty Mods

gbrettin

Put all the fuel lines back in, didn't pressure test yet. Main fuel pump hose fell off in the tank I think so the pump needs to be inspected and then I will pressure test with the main pump. Hose lengths were perfect on everything so I was able to secure my filter to the car properly with screws.

The exhaust was not angled correctly and extended too far out on the driver's side. I spent a lot of time getting the pipe angle symmetrical to the passenger side. Front facia holes were expanded for the new trim piece. You'll notice the holes getting bigger through out the pictures. I didn't get a picture of it finalized... but what ever, it's a hole.

Last thing I did was get the waste gate pipe cut and on. both pipes are close to the same length one is a bit longer because one waste gate sits a bit higher due to how the OEM header sits higher.

All the exhaust piping is done. It's out the door for TIG welding.

First photos shows the angle. Notice how it tips up too much and how far it sticks out. I needed to have most of the pipe close to flush with the bumper and then pie out a few back so that air doesn't get rammed down the exhaust. Getting the pipes to match using metal is extremally difficult, I also tried keeping the piping tight so the welds would be good.

Hopefully context will help with the photos as I go. Or else it will look like random exhaust shots.



Compare to the passenger side



Cut the odd angle with the Metabo... Not really different when I need other cuts though.


Overhead shots to show the tire gap. This is absolute max space given the turbo location. Very happy with the spacing. Wasn't done with the angling but wanted the picture. The passenger side was difficult because the pipe needed to extend down, then come back in next to the up pipe, and then make the correct angle out the bumper while keeping maximum space away from tire.



Driver's side angled to what the passenger side is.... I might have worked it a few more times after this too.


Finished piping. Notice the ends have been angled back.





Bumper on perspective








Pipe is slightly too big for the Wastegate because it is supposed to fit inside. I don't care, it's what the shop had.


Left hand side you can see the dump pipe. It doesn't need to go down far.


Gates poke past oil plumbing.... Probably needs a heat shield there. Also if you look close you can see oil on the black pipe going into the scavenger pump. I need to take it off and tighten.

Mr&Mrs

I cant wait to hear this thing.

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Project Z <--Click - Check out the link too many mods to list!

gbrettin

There's video of it running a few posts up ... Unless you mean dyno run. That should be soon.

Mr&Mrs

I must of missed it ill check now, but yeah under a full load would be great =D

__________________
Project Z <--Click - Check out the link too many mods to list!

gbrettin

Didn't really post much about the drive by cable pedal... but here it is.

gbrettin

All the leaks have been addressed on the car with the exception of one. ANPlumbing lines proved their worth on everything with the exception of the pan, and that's because the rear fitting has been gacked (see picture). With that said, the pan had to be pulled off no matter if I want to repair or get a new pan. I opted to get a new Sikky rear sump pan that can hold 7.5qts, has traps, and most importantly has ORB bungs that screw into the pan so that AN lines can attach. Here's the pan:
https://www.sikky.com/product/370z-l...-sump-oil-pan/

Getting the old pan off was a challenge. I went to harbor freight and picked up an engine support bar so that the engine could remain in place. The engine is also being supported by the transmission. Prior to finding the engine support bar I was stressed out because I thought that I was going to have to disassemble the front end of the car, disconnect all wiring and take off the transmission. SOOO, happy about not doing that. That's not to say getting the k-member to drop off wasn't a challenge... it's about 1/10th of the challenge that pulling the engine represented. lol. The pan is currently off and I'm now waiting for my other pan to arrive.

Prior to pulling the pan I drained the oil (obviously) but also removed the Clearview filter. The screen caught a few larger debris which was cool to see it was working. While inspecting the Clearview I noticed some oil seeping out the side, not a lot, so the whole unit was tightened up (the bolts were loose snug so they were snugged with a 1/4 turn past). New K&N gold has now replaced the STP filter. Engine masters did a oil filter test with the K&N gold filter that's worth checking out.

Ok, so back to the pan. I noticed break in of bearing materials at the bottom of the pan with no evidence of the engine eating its self. The engine probably has about 45min of run time total at this point with about 4 heat cycles. I think it's time to pour the 14w - 40 Amsoil engine oil in when the new pan goes on. The engine will get dyno time and about 100mi before the next change. I know there's a lot of ideas about break in theory but this is the path I'm taking. My main goal is to keep contaminants to a minimum.

So my off time I really wanted to get the mold going again for my cubby. I have the whole mold roughed out so I can do vacuum bagging. I gave up on the compression mold idea due to the height on the back side. Lots of hand sanding in my near future.

Lastly, I needed a simple win... so I installed my parachute handle.

gbrettin

From IG@gbrettin:
I've got to hand it to @sikkymanufacturing, their pan looks top notch. The pan has a billet block that bolts into the pan that allows for -10 lines. The pan flange looks to be billet. Welds all look great. Sides have a drain for my scavenger pump. The oil reservoir has trap doors to prevent oil starvation. Capacity is 7.5 qts. The pan thickness is beefy. So yeah, great product so far. Now to get it on my car... And hopefully no other modifications are needed.

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The summation of what I said on IG was pretty on point. One other thing that makes the pan highly desirable is the ORB fittings on the pan... SO if it gets stripped out from some @ssh0l3 then it can easily be changed.

A little birdy on the Internet also told me to pour some oil into the pan before putting it on the car to check for leaks. That was some solid advice that I can't pass on.

gbrettin

The Sikky pan was a flop!

Sikky designed their pan to work exclusively with Sikky mounts. Unfortunately I can not change from my LOJ mounts because the transmission, turbos, up pipes and exhaust can not move back and down roughly 3in that is needed.

Some injury to insult... The hydraulic jack used to bring my k-member up and down works with approximations. When letting the jack down it abruptly drops about 1-2 feet and then bounces a bit. Not super scarry at all with a few hundred pounds sitting on it. Don't worry about it dropping too far because my stainless steel brake lines slowed one of the bounces. Sooooo.... looks like I'm in the market to replace my SS brake lines. Not that they leak or anything but they did just have 200lb yank on them.

Later that night, when I was really mad, I called my buddy who designed the pan and asked him if we could chop the flange off the Sikky pan and weld it up to the old pan ... Sure can! So I am going to meet yo with him and both of the pans to make some Frankenstein stuff happen.

The next day after that call I was a bit more calm and found a remote adapter that might be adapted to the old pan with out hacking the Sikky pan up. That would allow me to sell the Sikky pan at a discount to someone, because it's "used".

My Amsoil came in... which was a slap in the face.

Aggression was taken out on my cubby mold. Right side of the mold is now smoothed out. Left side and top need just a bit more, but the next step is going to be filling some of the low belt sanded spots with a bit of fiberglass.

Really, the mold is nearly done! It's shaped out to do vacuum bag molds. The face of the cubby for the mold is pristine still, and as far as I'm concerned the only thing that really needs to look perfect. As you can see the back has been dinged up. I'll hit the bad spots with bondo and sand smooth but like I said... not a big deal.




Shows how far the engine needs to move back compared to the oil pickup... 3in?


Space on the back of the engine compared to firewall.


Ordered this next day air. Maybe it's a fix? Like I said, I'll chop the $780.00 Sikky pan to get this project done.


Oil that can't go in my car...

gbrettin

I finally wrapped up the mold. There are a few pin holes in the mold but they can all be filled with filleting wax or plasticine clay. Also, the edges will be of the part will be filled with some filleting wax and draft angles created so the B side of the mold will come off.

Tonight I will prep the part for the B side casting by doing what I said above and cleaning up the part a bit more with some light sanding. The inside of the cubby also needs a bead of wax which will prevent the mold material from leaking into the cubby and for another draft angle.

If I haven't said this already, the mold will only be used for vacuum bagging and not doing compression molds at this point.

gbrettin

Still waiting on the pan. So... more mold work. Cleaned up the garage and prepared the area. Waxed the mold and also filled areas with wax to avoid having the mold lock by having draft angles.

Here's information that I didn't really read:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics...ng/draft-angle

gbrettin

Had a buddy swing by last night and help pour the mold. Before he got there I was able to get the side wall built out using plastic. I used about 5 sticks of hot glue in the joints and behind the plastic. Filler wax was used to smooth out the transitions between the mold and the plastic. Inspection of the mold was critical to ensure there was no chunks of debris hanging out and no mechanical locks were present. A bit more wax was needed at the top and bottom because we didn't like how the molding material would flow in. I used the air compressor to blow everything off at the end. Lastly, I waxed the mold one last time by hand and sprayed the mold with a heavy duty spray on release wax twice (link below). Just prior to pouring the molding material you could see a thick wax barrier. I suspect the heat of the mold takes it from a solid to more of a grease during the curing process. The spray on wax layed down perfect, it was great!

https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/rw4...-release-agent

gbrettin

Popped the mold this morning. Doing a double post today.

BOOM

The B side pulled fairly easy, due to the fact I built in leverage points on the side. The cubby plug cracked as I pulled the B side but that's alright because that's not the end goal here.

gbrettin

I've been out of town for work last week but in-between the last post and now I've been removing the cubby from the mold and attempting to get my old pan on.

The pan has been quite the pain in the azz getting completed. I learned that there are three different flare options that GM has for their pick up tubes with three different o-rings. The o-ring I put on was from my Sikky pan because I had dropped the black o-ring. Well, here's where it gets interesting, the o-ring is red which indicates a slightly thicker o-ring and when I attempted to put the o-ring on I crushed/cut it going into the pump. Clearly I didn't notice because I had put the car back together and attempted to roll over the engine to check for oil pressure. Thank god I did that AND had a clearview filter because I was able to visually check for pressure. Of course, there was none so I had to brace the top of the engine again and drop the k-member again. The first time I had dropped the k-member I used a shitty transmission jack that loses pressure and bounces. Yeah, not really fun with 300lbs on it (or what ever it is). The second time I made the attempt was with the forklift. That was slightly easier but still a pain in the d!ck.

So that was the fun of doing the k-member twice. I'm ready to focus on something a bit more up lifting... The billet block that adapts to my pan is MINT. The AN fittings are perfect and even better is the fact they can be changed if needed. The AN fittings on the pan previously were out of spec because getting the hose ends onto it was very difficult. In fact, I'm certain that was the root cause of why it was cross threaded.

As it stands right now... I have one more nut to put on the pan. I was exhausted after a along day of work so I called it and left it so I need to put on the oil send/return lines and the last nut.

If anyone is in the market for a Sikky pan, HMU. I'm selling it for 650 (before shipping) and I paid 830 with shipping.

Here's some destruction on a perfectly good custom cubby mount that I paid Jason Gale for:










ROUND 2





ONE RING TO RUIN THEM ALL