Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

Rusty · 10-03-2019, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbrettin

Bryan Settle just messaged me and told me to stitch weld the seams. I'll look into that as an option too.

Before welding. You have to remove the sealant between the metal sheets. Otherwise your welds will have holes in the bead.

sirnixalot · 10-03-2019, 10:01 AM

Not to be a stick in the mud but I've seam welded 2 cars, have my own rotisserie and everything. I'll never do a 3rd and the sum of money that would change my mind no one would be willing to pay.

The wire wheeling (the wires flying off the wheel and sticking in whatever part of the body they hit), the using a carpet knife to get what the wire wheel couldn't, the spot weld drilling.....then there is the welding itself, ospho, etch prime, epoxy prime, re-seal and paint.

Did I mention the wire wheeling? That seam sealant comes off like a hot cobweb

The fire wall seams you have to do aren't too bad though. Just be careful about the fire wall insulation behind them. If the seam is an overlap which most are, welding one side doesn't help much, what I do in those situations when I can't get to the both sides is use a spot weld bit, drill through one panel and fill that with weld. Basically additional spot welds since it's joining the panel in the middle of the over lap and not just on one side

Rusty · 10-03-2019, 10:18 AM

The weld prep is a bitch. I welded part of one car. The only way I would do again is if it's a racecar and gutted. And someone prepped it. In a rotisserie so that you can do all the welding in the flat position.

gbrettin · 10-03-2019, 11:18 AM

Perhaps I can weld in bracing else where. Thanks for the info guys! Like I said a few times earlier, I'm learning. That input is very valuable!

Rusty · 10-03-2019, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbrettin

Perhaps I can weld in bracing else where. Thanks for the info guys! Like I said a few times earlier, I'm learning. That input is very valuable!

Look into the bracing that bolts on under the fenders. I can't think the name of the company right now. Soul something.

Krylon · 10-03-2019, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Look into the bracing that bolts on under the fenders. I can't think the name of the company right now. Soul something.

Soul Function.

https://conceptzperformance.com/soul-function_m_81.php

gbrettin · 10-03-2019, 07:11 PM

Oh, if that's the case... I have a ladder brace that I plan on using. I should be all set.

I also got back out to the shop today. Both fenders were removed and engine bay vacuumed out.

gbrettin · 10-04-2019, 06:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Look into the bracing that bolts on under the fenders. I can't think the name of the company right now. Soul something.

Ahh! Found it Rusty and Krylon! 100% going to get this:
https://conceptzperformance.com/soul...1l_p_38315.php

For other that want to see how the fender brace installed:

gbrettin · 10-04-2019, 06:18 PM

Cleaned, sanded and sealed the rust caused by a battery. I'll chop off the tabs when I get my hands back on the pinch weld grinder. Looks like I'm going to do some stitch welding on this too (not full hog); of which, I've been going back and forth on.

I actually sanded nearly all the rust out, I just didn't get another picture before I sealed it.

sirnixalot · 10-04-2019, 06:48 PM

You cleaned that up WELL.

gbrettin · 10-05-2019, 04:39 PM

Sanded my arm off to knock down some runs in the rust inhibitor. Scuff and initial primed the passenger side.

gbrettin · 10-10-2019, 11:50 AM

Well Frank... Your packaging passed cat inspection this time. Oh, we have our eyes on you sir.

gbrettin · 10-12-2019, 08:05 AM

Easiest install on my car so far. Took 5 min. Could use longer bolts. No worries, I'm gonna rip some welds on it.

Cleaned up the seams on the passenger side; and I know the time sunk into grinding the seams doesn't jump right out.... but, there were huge amounts of time between some of the photos. The last picture of the seams shows the seams done. Some spots needed to be reworked over and over.

Then I started removing the pinch welds on the driver's side, which fought me the whole time.

Spooler · 10-12-2019, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbrettin

Well Frank... Your packaging passed cat inspection this time. Oh, we have our eyes on you sir.

Do they actually work???? I need something for my car. I am twisting it perty good.

gbrettin · 10-12-2019, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

Do they actually work???? I need something for my car. I am twisting it perty good.

I haven't spoke to anyone that has reviewed it. I'm hoping it does.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

10-03-2019, 10:01 AM	#137 (permalink)
sirnixalot Track Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Cayman Islands Posts: 685 Drives: 2010 370Z Rep Power: 57453	Not to be a stick in the mud but I've seam welded 2 cars, have my own rotisserie and everything. I'll never do a 3rd and the sum of money that would change my mind no one would be willing to pay. The wire wheeling (the wires flying off the wheel and sticking in whatever part of the body they hit), the using a carpet knife to get what the wire wheel couldn't, the spot weld drilling.....then there is the welding itself, ospho, etch prime, epoxy prime, re-seal and paint. Did I mention the wire wheeling? That seam sealant comes off like a hot cobweb The fire wall seams you have to do aren't too bad though. Just be careful about the fire wall insulation behind them. If the seam is an overlap which most are, welding one side doesn't help much, what I do in those situations when I can't get to the both sides is use a spot weld bit, drill through one panel and fill that with weld. Basically additional spot welds since it's joining the panel in the middle of the over lap and not just on one side gbrettin and Rusty like this. __________________ 2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap Last edited by sirnixalot; 10-03-2019 at 10:06 AM.

10-03-2019, 10:18 AM	#138 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 34,866 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684436	The weld prep is a bitch. I welded part of one car. The only way I would do again is if it's a racecar and gutted. And someone prepped it. In a rotisserie so that you can do all the welding in the flat position. gbrettin and sirnixalot like this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

10-03-2019, 11:18 AM	#139 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,237 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 542172	Perhaps I can weld in bracing else where. Thanks for the info guys! Like I said a few times earlier, I'm learning. That input is very valuable! Rusty, ZontheRocks and sirnixalot like this.

10-03-2019, 07:11 PM	#142 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,237 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 542172	Oh, if that's the case... I have a ladder brace that I plan on using. I should be all set. I also got back out to the shop today. Both fenders were removed and engine bay vacuumed out. Rusty, Hotrodz, madwi and 1 others like this.

10-04-2019, 06:18 PM	#144 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,237 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 542172	Cleaned, sanded and sealed the rust caused by a battery. I'll chop off the tabs when I get my hands back on the pinch weld grinder. Looks like I'm going to do some stitch welding on this too (not full hog); of which, I've been going back and forth on. I actually sanded nearly all the rust out, I just didn't get another picture before I sealed it. Rusty, Hotrodz, madwi and 3 others like this. Last edited by gbrettin; 10-04-2019 at 06:20 PM.

10-04-2019, 06:48 PM	#145 (permalink)
sirnixalot Track Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Cayman Islands Posts: 685 Drives: 2010 370Z Rep Power: 57453	You cleaned that up WELL. gbrettin and ZontheRocks like this. __________________ 2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

10-05-2019, 04:39 PM	#146 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,237 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 542172	Sanded my arm off to knock down some runs in the rust inhibitor. Scuff and initial primed the passenger side. Hotrodz, madwi, ZontheRocks and 1 others like this. Last edited by gbrettin; 10-06-2019 at 09:12 AM.

10-10-2019, 11:50 AM	#147 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,237 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 542172	Well Frank... Your packaging passed cat inspection this time. Oh, we have our eyes on you sir. Rusty, madwi and Krylon like this. Last edited by gbrettin; 10-10-2019 at 12:11 PM.

10-12-2019, 08:05 AM	#148 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,237 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 542172	Easiest install on my car so far. Took 5 min. Could use longer bolts. No worries, I'm gonna rip some welds on it. Cleaned up the seams on the passenger side; and I know the time sunk into grinding the seams doesn't jump right out.... but, there were huge amounts of time between some of the photos. The last picture of the seams shows the seams done. Some spots needed to be reworked over and over. Then I started removing the pinch welds on the driver's side, which fought me the whole time. Rusty and madwi like this. Last edited by gbrettin; 10-12-2019 at 08:14 AM.

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