HKS Exhaust Install Issues

sandersd · 11-09-2014, 07:43 PM

Try to listen on good speakers!

sandersd · 11-09-2014, 08:15 PM

I installed the washers as spacers to prevent the bolt from hitting the horizontal damper as described earlier.

IMG_0628.JPG

Another shot of the shield that I decided did not need to be removed. There seems to be plenty of clearance from the muffler.

IMG_0629.JPG

I've read in other posts people say the factory Nismo exhaust is not a true dual exhaust and narrows to a Y pipe like the standard exhaust so I wanted to post a pic for any confused readers or doubters. The Nismo is a true dual exhaust with an H pipe crossover underneath the heat shield.

IMG_0630.JPG
IMG_0631.JPG

sandersd · 11-09-2014, 08:41 PM

I love the sound of the exhaust. It's perfect; very quiet under part or constant throttle but very sporty when accelerating. Absolutely NO drone whatsoever. It's loud enough to say "sports car" but not so loud as to be obnoxious. Not any louder than the stock exhaust at cruise. I probably will not roll my windows up till next June, it just sounds that good.

My recommendations for installation:

Use a high temp RTV designed for exhaust systems when assembling
Torque bolts to 25 ft lbs and check for leaks with the car still on the lift/stands
Start install at the cats, then secure and fully tighten the crossover connection before moving to the rear.
Jack stands work great for supporting the pipes when assembling
Be sure to remove the hanger extension near the differential and add a spacer when reinstalling the bolt.
Don't bother trying to wrestle the rubber hangers off the stock components. Just unbolt the brackets and remove the rubber when the pieces are on the ground and accessible. Use a silicone lubricant on the rubber to aid removal.
Have two box end wrenches for the crossover bolts, preferably offset box end wrenches to avoid rounding the bolt heads and busting your knuckles

Using the silicone will require a 24 hour wait before returning the vehicle to service but I'm not sure if the connections will be tight enough to seal at the recommended torque value for the bolts provided without the sealant. Perhaps the next person to install an HKS can chime in. I'm certain you don't want to break the bolts on the cats by over torquing because they are tack welded to the flange and that would be a major pain to drill out and grind the flange flat for another bolt, so tread lightly. Mine did not at 45 ft lbs but I don't know how the constant stress from heating and cooling will affect them over time. On a positive note if they do break I guess it'll be a good excuse to replace the cats with HFCs.

Dreadnaught · 11-09-2014, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandersd

I love the sound of the exhaust. It's perfect; very quiet under part or constant throttle but very sporty when accelerating. Absolutely NO drone whatsoever. It's loud enough to say "sports car" but not so loud as to be obnoxious. Not any louder than the stock exhaust at cruise. I probably will not roll my windows up till next June, it just sounds that good.

My recommendations for installation:

Use a high temp RTV designed for exhaust systems when assembling
Torque bolts to 25 ft lbs and check for leaks with the car still on the lift/stands
Start install at the cats, then secure and fully tighten the crossover connection before moving to the rear.
Jack stands work great for supporting the pipes when assembling
Be sure to remove the hanger extension near the differential and add a spacer when reinstalling the bolt.
Don't bother trying to wrestle the rubber hangers off the stock components. Just unbolt the brackets and remove the rubber when the pieces are on the ground and accessible. Use a silicone lubricant on the rubber to aid removal.
Have two box end wrenches for the crossover bolts, preferably offset box end wrenches to avoid rounding the bolt heads and busting your knuckles

Using the silicone will require a 24 hour wait before returning the vehicle to service but I'm not sure if the connections will be tight enough to seal at the recommended torque value for the bolts provided without the sealant. Perhaps the next person to install an HKS can chime in. I'm certain you don't want to break the bolts on the cats by over torquing because they are tack welded to the flange and that would be a major pain to drill out and grind the flange flat for another bolt, so tread lightly. Mine did not at 45 ft lbs but I don't know how the constant stress from heating and cooling will affect them over time. On a positive note if they do break I guess it'll be a good excuse to replace the cats with HFCs.

The hangar bolt that you added washers to is factory? I'm confused on that exhaust hangar issue lol.

Oh, and the exhaust sounds soooooooo goooood! Start up = 8============D LOL.

I had this exhaust on my 06 G coupe and loved everything about it.

sandersd · 11-10-2014, 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dreadnaught

The hangar bolt that you added washers to is factory? I'm confused on that exhaust hangar issue lol.

Yes it is factory but has an extension plate that the bolt extends through. The extension plate must be removed because it places the hanger too low. It is held on by a short bolt. Once it is removed the long bolt seen in the pic screws into the hole vacated by the short bolt after passing through the rubber hanger. Without the spacers the bolt is so long it will hit the damper as shown in the pics.

sandersd · 11-10-2014, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dreadnaught

Start up = 8============D

BTW what does this mean?

wheee! · 11-10-2014, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandersd

BTW what does this mean?

Hmmm, that'll be "hard" to figure out....

JARblue · 11-10-2014, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandersd

BTW what does this mean?

Boner

11-09-2014, 07:43 PM	#1 (permalink)
sandersd Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Houston, TX, USA Posts: 280 Drives: 2014 370z Nismo Rep Power: 12	First drive... Try to listen on good speakers! cooldwt and Spoiler like this. __________________ 2014 370Z NISMO -- HKS Hi-Power Exhaust -- Swift Springs -- BC ER Coilovers -- SPL Suspension Components -- Nismo R-Tune Intake -- Seibon BD CF Hood Last edited by sandersd; 11-09-2014 at 07:57 PM.

11-09-2014, 08:15 PM	#2 (permalink)
sandersd Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Houston, TX, USA Posts: 280 Drives: 2014 370z Nismo Rep Power: 12	I installed the washers as spacers to prevent the bolt from hitting the horizontal damper as described earlier. IMG_0628.JPG Another shot of the shield that I decided did not need to be removed. There seems to be plenty of clearance from the muffler. IMG_0629.JPG I've read in other posts people say the factory Nismo exhaust is not a true dual exhaust and narrows to a Y pipe like the standard exhaust so I wanted to post a pic for any confused readers or doubters. The Nismo is a true dual exhaust with an H pipe crossover underneath the heat shield. IMG_0630.JPG IMG_0631.JPG __________________ 2014 370Z NISMO -- HKS Hi-Power Exhaust -- Swift Springs -- BC ER Coilovers -- SPL Suspension Components -- Nismo R-Tune Intake -- Seibon BD CF Hood

11-09-2014, 08:41 PM	#3 (permalink)
sandersd Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Houston, TX, USA Posts: 280 Drives: 2014 370z Nismo Rep Power: 12	Final thoughts... I love the sound of the exhaust. It's perfect; very quiet under part or constant throttle but very sporty when accelerating. Absolutely NO drone whatsoever. It's loud enough to say "sports car" but not so loud as to be obnoxious. Not any louder than the stock exhaust at cruise. I probably will not roll my windows up till next June, it just sounds that good. My recommendations for installation: Use a high temp RTV designed for exhaust systems when assembling Torque bolts to 25 ft lbs and check for leaks with the car still on the lift/stands Start install at the cats, then secure and fully tighten the crossover connection before moving to the rear. Jack stands work great for supporting the pipes when assembling Be sure to remove the hanger extension near the differential and add a spacer when reinstalling the bolt. Don't bother trying to wrestle the rubber hangers off the stock components. Just unbolt the brackets and remove the rubber when the pieces are on the ground and accessible. Use a silicone lubricant on the rubber to aid removal. Have two box end wrenches for the crossover bolts, preferably offset box end wrenches to avoid rounding the bolt heads and busting your knuckles Using the silicone will require a 24 hour wait before returning the vehicle to service but I'm not sure if the connections will be tight enough to seal at the recommended torque value for the bolts provided without the sealant. Perhaps the next person to install an HKS can chime in. I'm certain you don't want to break the bolts on the cats by over torquing because they are tack welded to the flange and that would be a major pain to drill out and grind the flange flat for another bolt, so tread lightly. Mine did not at 45 ft lbs but I don't know how the constant stress from heating and cooling will affect them over time. On a positive note if they do break I guess it'll be a good excuse to replace the cats with HFCs. wheee! likes this. __________________ 2014 370Z NISMO -- HKS Hi-Power Exhaust -- Swift Springs -- BC ER Coilovers -- SPL Suspension Components -- Nismo R-Tune Intake -- Seibon BD CF Hood Last edited by sandersd; 11-09-2014 at 08:51 PM.

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