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Originally Posted by Chuck33079 Yeah, if nothing showed up in the logs and it's on the printout, it's probably dyno weirdness. Now go get a tune and pull some of

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Old 10-17-2013, 09:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chuck33079 View Post
Yeah, if nothing showed up in the logs and it's on the printout, it's probably dyno weirdness. Now go get a tune and pull some of that fuel back out, there's plenty more power to be made.

How much of a difference do you think the ambient temps made?
Really? I guess maybe 10hp. Timing was 24-25 if that means anything. Not sure what tuned cars shoot for.

With a dyno jet having the correction factor target 75 degrees, none on these printouts. We did hit uncorrected. The numbers were lower but still a gap between the two lines so maybe a few ponies.
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Old 10-18-2013, 12:07 AM   #2 (permalink)
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If someone has a nice camera, maybe.
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Old 10-18-2013, 08:43 AM   #3 (permalink)
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If your car spends any substantial time outside, in humid weather or in the rain/snow I would remove that header wrap. It will trap moisture underneath the wrap and over time will rot out the exhaust. Especially if you get the exhaust super hot.
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Old 10-18-2013, 08:45 AM   #4 (permalink)
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If your car spends any substantial time outside, in humid weather or in the rain/snow I would remove that header wrap. It will trap moisture underneath the wrap and over time will rot out the exhaust. Especially if you get the exhaust super hot.
The spray takes care of that problem completely. Also, newer types of wrap don't have that problem. And if you get the exhaust super hot, wouldn't it evaporate the moisture you're concerned about?
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:07 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The spray takes care of that problem completely. Also, newer types of wrap don't have that problem. And if you get the exhaust super hot, wouldn't it evaporate the moisture you're concerned about?
I've seen a few exhausts use the spray, wrap the exhaust properly and still have it happen. It traps the moisture underneath the wrap between the exhaust pipe and the wrap. Then the exhaust gets repeatedly heated up and cooled down which will corrode the metal away in time. Sure, yeah... But new moisture will always find it's way underneath the wrap even if it evaporates old moisture. Personally, if heat was my concern I would have the exhausted coated. It took about 15k-20k miles on the last exhaust I saw it happen to.
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Old 10-18-2013, 06:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chuck33079 View Post
The spray takes care of that problem completely. Also, newer types of wrap don't have that problem. And if you get the exhaust super hot, wouldn't it evaporate the moisture you're concerned about?
Correct... I've ran header / exhaust wrap in the past without a single issue. It has helped tremendously with rasp on my older exhaust set up. If you wrap and tie strap it properly, you're not going to have problems with corrosion for year round driving.

If I had one complaint at all, it would be that the newer wraps that don't require the spray coating has a tendency to fray on the ends. This can be a b*tch when installing it and getting a tight wrap around the exhaust. I did have to check ever so often under the car to make sure the ends weren't splitting.
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Correct... I've ran header / exhaust wrap in the past without a single issue. It has helped tremendously with rasp on my older exhaust set up. If you wrap and tie strap it properly, you're not going to have problems with corrosion for year round driving.

If I had one complaint at all, it would be that the newer wraps that don't require the spray coating has a tendency to fray on the ends. This can be a b*tch when installing it and getting a tight wrap around the exhaust. I did have to check ever so often under the car to make sure the ends weren't splitting.
A hose clamp or SS wire wrapped or pinching the ends won't let it fray. My first pic shows the SS worm clamp at the ends holding the wrap down.
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Old 10-18-2013, 01:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If your car spends any substantial time outside, in humid weather or in the rain/snow I would remove that header wrap. It will trap moisture underneath the wrap and over time will rot out the exhaust. Especially if you get the exhaust super hot.
Well again I had a wrapped DP and header on my WRX for 50k and 3 years in NE ohio winters and the pipe was perfect after the wrap came off. You can't rot stainless steel. That's why it's called stainless. And that was on a 335hp 400tq WRX that saw a lot more heat than a NA can produce.
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Old 10-18-2013, 02:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Well again I had a wrapped DP and header on my WRX for 50k and 3 years in NE ohio winters and the pipe was perfect after the wrap came off. You can't rot stainless steel. That's why it's called stainless. And that was on a 335hp 400tq WRX that saw a lot more heat than a NA can produce.
Relax, I am sharing my experience mate. And yes, it certainly can. There are different grades of stainless steel. 304 which is the lowest grade may very well stain or rust in environments of high salinity, little oxygen and low circulation. One car I saw it occur on was an 04 STi downpipe. Clearly won't happen to everyone, but it's not impossible. Most race cars I see don't use wrap anyway so I am not a huge believer in it, but that's just my $.02.
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Old 10-18-2013, 03:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Relax, I am sharing my experience mate. And yes, it certainly can. There are different grades of stainless steel. 304 which is the lowest grade may very well stain or rust in environments of high salinity, little oxygen and low circulation. One car I saw it occur on was an 04 STi downpipe. Clearly won't happen to everyone, but it's not impossible. Most race cars I see don't use wrap anyway so I am not a huge believer in it, but that's just my $.02.
I'm fine and I'm sharing too saying you're incorrect. 304 is 100% NOT the lowest grade! It's one of the best right behind 316Ti used for turbo headers and jet engines because 1600*+ can crack 304. Pretty sure you're thinking of 409ss which is right above mild steel. 304 can surface rust but that's because things stick to it and rust. It'd take 1000 years to break all the way through. And here's what I mean, 304ss exhaust with surface rust from who knows what sticking to it...





A light polish gets everything off the steel and brings the shine back out. Again it'd take 1000 years and 1000 polishes to get through 16 gauge 304.

And race cars don't drive on the street or use a 370z. The under hood temps of these cars suck along with their oil cooling system. Running an unwrapped header in THIS car is just plan retarded!
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Old 01-23-2014, 12:59 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Which version of the "obx" do you have? the 2nd one looks like it has a better collector design.

OBX Stainless Header 2009+ Nissan 370Z VQ37VHR Long Tube

OBX SS304 1.7" ID Equal Length Header Exhaust Nissan 370Z VQ37VHR
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:31 AM   #12 (permalink)
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1st.

Not to me it doesn't. You need to separate the cylinders longer than that. That's why LTH make more power than TP. That 2nd one just looks like a header with a test pipe.
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