Congratz on finishing the install.

My friend has a similiar set up and I've herd the exact same his in your video. All good. I like it!:tup:

Lol I remember I went to a car show that was full of McClaren's and Lamborghini's and Ferrari's and the like, and then there was my group of 370Z's over in the corner. This Viper owner came up to me not long after I parked and was like "I heard you come in, that exhaust is the sexiest thing I've ever heard. What turbo system are you running?" I laughed and had to explain to him that the hiss he heard was t a turbo, just my exhaust. He was amazed and would t believe me at first. We left there and went to a restaurant, and I drove behind Juno the whole time. When we got there she asked me the same exact question hahahaha


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My buddy was like you went turbo?!?! WTF?!?! And i was like uh...

But seriouly, im worried about how loud it is. Cop magnet... but at rhe same I want it to be even louder... like so loud it makes all the local vw guys cry

then do like I did, and remove your muffler section and replace with 2 12" glasspacks. Its loud!

nice! just installed mine, if you havent put down some wrench hours dont do it. :icon17:

don't know what the laws are where you live, but with mine if I see a cop I just stick in in 6th gear and don't gas it too hard. I've never had a second glance, except from mustangs and ricer civics lol.

I am so damn ready for my tail lights to come in so i can take this sucker for a spin. My tires are suppose to come in on the same day! So i will have some go pro footage of the exhaust, for those of you that were curious as to the sound of the setup

So the butt dynos are in! Feels like a very impressive gain.Not only down low (which i figured the low end would have sucked without tune) but after i hit 5700-7200 it friggin screams. Its a little humbling tbh. Stoked to get her on the dyno in march

SES light came on... Wont have a code until tomorrow. Reset the ECU and its gone for now... In doing extensive research into it, i came across a thread about an ses light and a communication code. Funny thing is the ses light came on as i was trying to pair my phone with my pioneer head unit. The ses light came on during the pair and then the pair failed saying some error. Related possibly? I know you guys cant tell me anything until i know what code it threw. Just trying to ease my mind a little bit. The test pipes have bung etenders and steel wool, so i would hope its not that. Temperature droped to about 22 tonight while the light went off. I checked gas cap, and intakes... Anything else i might want to take a look at?

Phone has nothing to do with it, just a coincidence
It's possible you put too much steel wool in too

And a tune can turn those O2 sensors off anyways
And the CEL they cause doesn't affect performance

oh and also blinking tpms light. Its been on before, but i have never had it blink. Just got new tires and they were fine for the first 50 miles or so

Yeah I was thinking either he packed the steel wool in a bit much or maybe one of the O2 sensors shat the bed? He didn't use an impact wrench so maybe one just went bad by chance?


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My guess is the P2A00 code that some of us have gotten after header installs. Unfortunately I don't think anyone has yet to figure out how to get rid of this code without using Uprev.

P0420 p0430. Too much steel wool is my guess. I packed that sucker good

Not enough I think. I just have a 1.5" extender and I'm throwing the same codes. Time to pack tighter!

Good to know! I have the extenders from z1 on my z1 tp's. But they are like 3 inches long i think, so maybe its different. The hole in the bottom of the extender is like BB sized, and with the amount of steel wool i packed in there i think its not getting enough flow, but i could be off base. the code description does say "under performing cat" which would lead me to believe that the sensor is reading too much flow. What size steel wool is best to use? I got some medium fine grade, wondering if i should get the ultra fine grade to blow flow better. Is there a point where it will throw a code if it is not getting enough flow? If not i will just block the hole completely with a solid washer like disk and then put the sensors on.

Side note, i got my wheels re-torqued today along with and alignment and now my tpms sensors are doing the minute long flashing thing and then staying on. It did not throw an error before this. Is there anyway they could have ****** my sensors up just by tightening my lugs?

TPMS is strictly tire pressure man. Check your tires and make sure they are above 30-32 PSI. I forgot when it signals the TPMS to turn on.

If its flashing at him, he's got a sensor malfunction. Alex, did you buy new TPMS for the new wheels or did you just transfer over your original sensors? Some Nissans will need to be relearned after switching sensors or even after some simple work like rotations and rebalances. Just depends on how long the wheels were off the car for. Sometimes a quick scan of the sensors with the scan tool while they are on the vehicle will reset the sensors too. Also, our sensors don't alert us until the PSI drops below 26.

They worked fine for about 50 miles then Turned on after while I wss driving after the alignment. Im going to check with the place and see what they did excatly. I set the tire pressure to 35 psi and have checked it like 5 times since

Hey chris, or anyone with the motordyne manifold, i ran into a situation while doing the install. Does it matter which goes where as far as the MAP sensor and the vac line? I mean it plugs into the same hose. The instructions say to plug the map sensor into a solid metal end with no hose on it. It wont fit on. I think the instructions are just wrong, but i just wanted to make sure

If I remember, It was T's off to the back of the manifold. It's been a while, I know I have a drawing sent to me from somewhere, I'll find it

Yeah, thats the one i am talking about. It t's off in the back of the manifold, and the instructions tell me to put the MAP sensor on the bare metal, but it needs a hose to connect to. I think it is just labeled wrong in the instructions. I started it up and it was fine, until the engine started smoking like crazy. A little bit of that blue fluid from one of the lines dripped on the header while i was taking it off... I almost freaked out, until i realized what happened. The smoke had a sweet smell almost

yeah, I had it plugged into a hose.

Alex, there are 2 hose ports on the back of the manifold. 1 is to loop around to the front for the crank case pressure lines that originally connect in front with 1 of the t's. The other 1 is to be T'd with the vac hose on the back by the firewall and the map sensor goes on the other end and plugs back into where it originally was. Mine is slightly different set up as I just wasn't paying attention but it works fine and I'm too lazy to change it lol.

Ah, gotcha.

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/a...224_181511.jpg

the intake manifold has nevewr been off before. Wondering if that scratch inside is anything to worry about, or just sub par nissan craftmanshit

craftmanship*

When the manifold was cast. It looks like someone took a burr bit to it to clean up that area some.

Ahh, has anyone ever taken that off and polished it perfectly smooth?

I'd be to scared to without taking it completely off. Metal shards falling into the manifold and into the motor is too scary.....lol

My issue is that there is no burned oil on it like every other inlet...

Btw, Alex, did you have a LOT of oil in your intake manifold? Because when I took mine off and put it on the counter it had like 2 tablespoons of oil in it...

2 little drops... But it sat unstarted for about 48 hours before i did the install

I touched it with my finger, and it is very smooth. Maybe the oil does not stick to it long enough to burn on? Another thought after the fact, is there anyway one of the mounting screws poked down in there while i was taking it off? Its all back together and i can't tell if its possible. I just ran the car for about 30 mins (not driving, it just snowed...) and it seems fine. Sounds smoother than before, and seems to rev a bit faster

Oh, i see what you are saying. The middle inlet looks like it had not been getting oil... It may just be the angle of the camra/flash. I don't remember it looking like that when i had it off. I think it looked like the others. Almost makes me want to take it off and have a peak

I's confuzed


EDIT: I understand what you're saying.
No it's not possible

No, I was just saying where the scratches physically are, it looks like you did that after opening it... But then again, since the whole thing is sand castes, and maybe that was deburring after them casting it, yes you could be right, it's maybe too smooth to allow oil to burn on it

did it affect your rasp? I know it did with mine, but our exhaust's are completely different.

If there was no oil going to that inlet what would happen? I mean, it would be obvious right? Something would seem wrong?

Sorry for all the questions, this thread has turned into my personal Q/A session lol

have not driven it yet, so under load i have no idea. But revving does seem to come a lot faster. Not sure if that makes it seem less raspy or not, but it does sound a bit more refined and smooth (engine/intake sound, and exhaust)

Ill post up a vid real on youtube. Hold tight