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Z1 smooth tubes worth it?

Is it worth it to try to cram 10 pounds of crap in the 3 pound bag that is the distance between the airbox and the TB? How the F*CK

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Old 03-01-2012, 07:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Z1 smooth tubes worth it?

Is it worth it to try to cram 10 pounds of crap in the 3 pound bag that is the distance between the airbox and the TB? How the F*CK does this part even fit? No room.
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Is it worth it to try to cram 10 pounds of crap in the 3 pound bag that is the distance between the airbox and the TB? How the F*CK does this part even fit? No room.
I am assuming that you are referring to the Z1 silicone post Maf tubes! I have never seen a set myself in person but the concept is real simple and makes sense. By ditching the slinky style stock post Maf tube and going to a smooth tube you will decrease air turbulence. Anytime you can do this you will increase velocity. Now in the case of this car in N/A form the gains would be very minimal. Personally I would need to see a dyno chart comparison to believe there would be any gains.

However, if it was my car, for the minimal cost, I would probably invest the money in them for peace of mind!

Thanks, Tony
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:54 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F.I. Inc. View Post
I am assuming that you are referring to the Z1 silicone post Maf tubes! I have never seen a set myself in person but the concept is real simple and makes sense. By ditching the slinky style stock post Maf tube and going to a smooth tube you will decrease air turbulence. Anytime you can do this you will increase velocity. Now in the case of this car in N/A form the gains would be very minimal. Personally I would need to see a dyno chart comparison to believe there would be any gains.

However, if it was my car, for the minimal cost, I would probably invest the money in them for peace of mind!

Thanks, Tony
Ive had the tubes before and now I actually begin to question if the slinky/ribbed style tubes arent actually beneficial. if you look at several high performance vehicle engines (lamborghini, ferarri, vipers, corvettes) they all appear to have the slinky style intake tube. There must be a reason. I doubt its for sound, mpg or emissions. Maybe the ribs cause just the slight amount of turbulence actually needed for smooth air intake flow. I also wonder if maybe smooth tubes are beneficial on forced inductions vehicles? Ive had numerous intakes both CAI and SRI as well as silicone tubes on the VQ.
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:23 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Ive had the tubes before and now I actually begin to question if the slinky/ribbed style tubes arent actually beneficial. if you look at several high performance vehicle engines (lamborghini, ferarri, vipers, corvettes) they all appear to have the slinky style intake tube. There must be a reason. I doubt its for sound, mpg or emissions. Maybe the ribs cause just the slight amount of turbulence actually needed for smooth air intake flow. I also wonder if maybe smooth tubes are beneficial on forced inductions vehicles? Ive had numerous intakes both CAI and SRI as well as silicone tubes on the VQ.
I think they OEM tubes are there to allow for any engine movement.

Example, my old fox body mustang had an aftermarket cold air intake (drew air from the fender). It was old so the motormounts were a bit worn. Every now and then if I shift a gear hard enough the tubes would pop loose from the silicon couplers.
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I think they OEM tubes are there to allow for any engine movement.

Example, my old fox body mustang had an aftermarket cold air intake (drew air from the fender). It was old so the motormounts were a bit worn. Every now and then if I shift a gear hard enough the tubes would pop loose from the silicon couplers.
you know..i didnt think about that.

note for those who install these (like i have), check the tubes every so often for loose fitment! i check my oil levels religiously every few weeks so i'll just add this as another thing to jiggle to make sure its tight
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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you know..i didnt think about that.

note for those who install these (like i have), check the tubes every so often for loose fitment! i check my oil levels religiously every few weeks so i'll just add this as another thing to jiggle to make sure its tight
I wouldn't worry about these coming loose after hard driving.

There were a few reasons why it would happen on my old Mustang. There wasn't much of the piping for the couplers to attach to, combine that with the old motormounts and you got a problem if you're not careful. It was pretty easy to tell when it was loose, CEL would pop on and it would run kinda choppy... almost sounded like it had a really aggressive cam in the motor.
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Been there, done that. They were worth it to me. I'm not sure about the HP gains
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Old 03-01-2012, 10:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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For the money, yes.

That + K&N (or other high flow panel filters) gets you within 5 +2 whp or so of the pricier G3's.

Some wrestling is required, but it will all fit.
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Old 03-01-2012, 10:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Okay, now that it's installed, it's worth it. I don't know if it gave me anything, but it looks nice and in theory it gave me something. It was hell installing.
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:27 AM   #10 (permalink)
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It is a bit tricky. I pulled the stock airboxs out and removed the strut brace to get more room.
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Old 03-14-2012, 05:58 PM   #11 (permalink)
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It is a bit tricky. I pulled the stock airboxs out and removed the strut brace to get more room.
I did this and STILL couldn't get them in! They don't even seem close to me. If I attached them to the airbox and tried to slip it back in, the duct on it was a good 1/2" from clearing the front fascia. Any ideas or tips? I wrestled with one for an hour before giving up. Here's a photo. I don't see how it could ever fit.

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Old 03-15-2012, 01:54 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I did this and STILL couldn't get them in! They don't even seem close to me. If I attached them to the airbox and tried to slip it back in, the duct on it was a good 1/2" from clearing the front fascia. Any ideas or tips? I wrestled with one for an hour before giving up. Here's a photo. I don't see how it could ever fit.

I got mine installed. I removed the air-boxes and attached them first to the TB, then got sex nuts and retard strong on it. I forced it to work. Then re-installed the air-boxes. (I kept them CLOSE to in location while attaching).
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:32 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I have mishimoto MAF tubes and k&n drop-ins. I isntalled them together. I def. feel gains in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd, but not as much in 4th to 6th. Then again, with only 800 miles on my car, I limit how many times I go WOT to redline.
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Old 03-14-2012, 07:20 PM   #14 (permalink)
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IMO, they're worth it. I bought hoping they would add a little HP on the topend of the powerband (which helps a ton if you raise your revlimiter).

No dyno result but I do have some track results:
I gained a little more than 1mph in the 1/4 mile after adding 2-piece front rotors and post MAF tubes. This was in similar temperatures/DA on the same track, several runs for each night.

Which mod made the most difference? who knows.
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Old 03-14-2012, 07:37 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I did dyno comparison and I saw Zero gains over stock using the K&N filters and post Maf tubes.

Maybe others have had better luck then I did with this setup.
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