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Is it really worth putting a Cold Air Intake on 370z and what HP gains

Originally Posted by sfearl1 this, except i went w/ the Cosworth filters (no oil) Performance Air Filter - Performance Air Filter - Cosworth USA ooooh nice! will be checking them

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Old 01-22-2012, 11:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sfearl1 View Post
this, except i went w/ the Cosworth filters (no oil)

Performance Air Filter - Performance Air Filter - Cosworth USA
ooooh nice! will be checking them out.


OP: the G3s tend to give power up top + i've seen where the air to fuel is thrown off. your best bet if doing something to the intake system is a MUST then you would be best off with the drop in filters + post MAF tubes. the VQ's intake system is already efficient so squeezing more HP out of it will be hard, IMO there are other places where HP is found aka HFC's or TP's.
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sfearl1 View Post
this, except i went w/ the Cosworth filters (no oil)

http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/...&idproduct=411
are these thing washable or do you have to replace them after so many miles?(sorry to OP for slight thread jack, was just curious). As for the OP, i am planning on going the same route with the post MAF and drop ins, but i am also debating on whether to do a CBE first or not too lol.
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Z_ealot View Post
are these thing washable or do you have to replace them after so many miles?(sorry to OP for slight thread jack, was just curious). As for the OP, i am planning on going the same route with the post MAF and drop ins, but i am also debating on whether to do a CBE first or not too lol.
CBE is a much more expensive purchase, it shouldn't be one or the other. I'd definitely get on the wait list for a Fast Intentions exhaust. Takes about 2 months from when you order it, and you only need a $200 deposit. Best gaining AND sounding exhaust.

I'm buying the Post-MAF tubes and filters now also
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bigdog1250 View Post
CBE is a much more expensive purchase, it shouldn't be one or the other. I'd definitely get on the wait list for a Fast Intentions exhaust. Takes about 2 months from when you order it, and you only need a $200 deposit. Best gaining AND sounding exhaust.

I'm buying the Post-MAF tubes and filters now also
+1

They also have a new 3" one as well.
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:13 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bigdog1250 View Post
CBE is a much more expensive purchase, it shouldn't be one or the other. I'd definitely get on the wait list for a Fast Intentions exhaust. Takes about 2 months from when you order it, and you only need a $200 deposit. Best gaining AND sounding exhaust.

I'm buying the Post-MAF tubes and filters now also
i don't know about the sound on the FI CBE, but the exhaust i eventually wanted to go after later on down the road was the Powerhouse Amuse R1 titan exhaust, that thing sounds amazing and is light as hell to boot. from what i hear a gain of around 20whp can be had with the amuse exhaust, but it is pretty expensive.
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Z_ealot View Post
are these thing washable or do you have to replace them after so many miles?(sorry to OP for slight thread jack, was just curious). As for the OP, i am planning on going the same route with the post MAF and drop ins, but i am also debating on whether to do a CBE first or not too lol.
yes, almost certain you can wash them. let me follow up on that for you though.
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sfearl1 View Post
yes, almost certain you can wash them. let me follow up on that for you though.
I have the AFE Dryflow's and those are washable...
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batman_4 View Post
K&N drop-ins + Z1 post MAF tubes
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Old 01-22-2012, 03:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Can anyone provide a baseline before and after dyno charts for just the CAI alone, with the K/N typhoon or other similar kits. If these kits even provide a 5-6 hp increase such a small power increase is almost unable to be detected in the seat of the pants. Example a 5-6 hp increase only gives you .0018 hp/lb (3260 lbs 370z) and that takes into account the hp is the same across the entire rev. range. Such a small hp increase would not even be noticed except in a top speed, dyno run or 1/4mile drag in very small numbers. Usually it takes a lot more HP gains to really be felt on the street or normal driving example 25-50 HP gains.

Even on the bikes with a 5hp on the bikes isn't really noticed and your dealing with a 450lb bike and 200 lb rider for 650 lb total 5 hp increase = .0076 hp/lb compared to 370z (.0018 hp/lb)

To really feel the extra power of a substantial HP power increase, you need large amounts of HP/lbs of weight. example stock harley 883cc sportster puts out around 38 BHP stock and the simple install of larger 1/2" pistons makes it a 1200cc bike and gives you 65-70 bhp almost doubling the felt HP and it comes down to a 35 hp increase or .053 hp/lb increase compared to the .0018 hp/lb increase for the 370Z.

I would agree that a more substantial hp gains can be achieved if you were to completely remove the stock exhaust system and intake system and go with a full length header and exhaust combo and a racing ram air intake system, but you really can't run this type of system on the street, unless the car is an old muscle car excempt from smog testing.

What a lot of young drivers don't really know is that most of these bolt on HP kits, don't really provide any real world HP gains and are really just shiny bolt or louder muffers that give the driver a feeling of a power increase when they are really only sensing the louder noise as they accellerate.

Heres another example of a real world power increase in the 80's chevy came out with the 262 cu in V6 for their full size trucks, it probably made around 180 hp. I had a short bed 2 wheel drive 4 speed manual 262 cu in motor. With a stop watch the truck did 1-60 in 13 seconds (stock) after using a saws all removing the cat and stock muffer and replacing the aircleaner with a large filter housing from a 1960's style car and a dual cherry bomb exhaust, note the truck came with tubular steel stock headers that flowed pretty well. End result was that the truck did 0-60 10sec that and gas mileage went from 17mpg - 22 mpg highway. When I sold the truck I put everything back stock and once again timed it and it dropped to 13-14 sec for 0-60 once again. Note at resale no one wanted to buy a noisy moddified car or truck, used car buyers like everything left stock.

Last edited by gsxr750; 01-22-2012 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 01-22-2012, 03:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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From Stillens web site http://www.stillen.com/product_files/402852~dyno.pdf
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:01 PM   #11 (permalink)
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if you look at the stillen dyno chart you will see that the engine really doesn't make any real power gains until 6500 -7000 rpm and below that range it only makes between 5-8 hp increase, not a really that significant for a $1000 price tag. Also most ppl don't drive their cars close to redline.
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gsxr750 View Post
if you look at the stillen dyno chart you will see that the engine really doesn't make any real power gains until 6500 -7000 rpm and below that range it only makes between 5-8 hp increase, not a really that significant for a $1000 price tag. Also most ppl don't drive their cars close to redline.
That was the same conclusion I came to. I think the cai kits are around $500 though not $1k. Still not worth it unless you are out to try and squeeze every single possible horse you can out of the motor. And if thats the case you should be thinking turbos/supercharger...
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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That was the same conclusion I came to. I think the cai kits are around $500 though not $1k. Still not worth it unless you are out to try and squeeze every single possible horse you can out of the motor. And if thats the case you should be thinking turbos/supercharger...
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:29 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Turbo's work great when new, but after the mileage gets past 50K, they usually need replacement, due to impeller or bearing problems and even carbon build up.

They also put a lot of stress on the motor, they are good for racing apllications , but not that good for driving your car to high mileage standards.

I had an older 85 z turbo that had the turbo replaced 3 times in 40K miles, according to the original owners reciepts. I drove for about 10k and sold it.
Better to go with CUBIC INCHES or Stroking a motor as compared to turbo etc.
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr750 View Post
if you look at the stillen dyno chart you will see that the engine really doesn't make any real power gains until 6500 -7000 rpm and below that range it only makes between 5-8 hp increase, not a really that significant for a $1000 price tag. Also most ppl don't drive their cars close to redline.
and also dont forget, numbers shrink a bunch once other bolt ons are added (exhaust, HFC's or TP's...)
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