Post Maf Tubes & Drop-ins, worth it??
 

just as title says, not looking for huge power gains but more throttle response. ive got the high horsepower in the garage and this is my DD. will this combo yield 1) SOME noticeable power gains 2)throttle response 3) sound (more air in means more air out, right?)

probably not sound, but there is proof that there is some gains with this set-up. I was just discussing this with another member here and the only dynos we have seen have been ones where other mods had already been added, so with a stock set-up it's very hard to tell. I would go with Modshacks DIY fang vents if you do go with it though... that's what i'm going to do. Cool air is better air.

just the k&n filters drop-in alone will gain you average of 4-5 whp, the oem intake is very good already as stated by other members on here

here is the link with dyno

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...ir-filter.html

If high gains are not your concern then these would be the best route for you. Tubes and filters will be $200> depending on where you get them from. Well worth it if you're not looking for power. Plus you can have your choice of color on the tubes.

The stock intake boxes and draw location are pretty good, and if you do the fang fent, you'll almost have a 'ram air' system for dirt cheap. :tup:

well im getting my top speed cat back and y-pipe as well so maybe ill see some decent gains from both of them together

What do have with high horsepower in the garage? Just asking btw.

I got a sweet 18 hp John Deere

we collecet cars, Ive got an underground racing viper a '65 cobra (which is for sale) and a built c6 z06

I love my Stillen G3s.

Very nice!

Get the tubes, they are cheap and add a small about of function. Sound won't be there though.

IMO, the tubes are and filters are the best bang for the buck compared to the Stillen G3's. HP comparisons are minimal between the two after mods... Save your money and go with the tubes...

i'd like to say the same.. but I have yet to see any real power numbers with the tubes and drop ins... as far as power difference being minimal.

i think that regular k&n drop ins should be adequate for what you're looking for and at a minimal cost.

Someone on here had them dyno's at 8 - 10 hp with tubes and filters... the real question is the dyno for the G3's after mods. I think i also read that someone put the g3's and got a tune and the HP boost was only 10 HP after mods. Id have to find the thread...

Found it...

http://www.the370z.com/1337185-post18.html

So, my mistake, the tune was already done, but the intake only added 9 hp...

Yes, I actually have read that after mods done, that the G3's power output tends to not look as good as with a completely stock car.

Part of the issue is most people who have their numbers posted are using the G3's and are 310-320 whp... no one really has (that I have seen to be fair) numbers listed quite like that with just tubes and a set of K&N drop-ins.

I think that ANY intake system could work, but the SRI systems need colder air run to them... hence the reason that their numbers are low and sometimes lose power. As has been stated here many times... the OE set-up is quite good. I would love to see, and may myself get the drop ins, maf tubes and the fang vents and do a before and after. I'm looking into it and it will be rather stealth, which I also like.

Yup, i agree. I just feel that often people look at the 18 - 20 HP claim given by Stillen as the increase they are going to get, regardless of mods done already or planning on doing...

If you do get the tubes, drop ins and vents and get it dyno'd, post back, would be curious to see that...

Oh, I definitely will. Modshack has said that the only difference as far as the airflow is that intake temps will rise by sitting, but once at around 25 mph they quickly reduce to right around what the Stillen's temps are. ( this is what I remember, and I could be slightly off )

If you want faster drag times, the G3's are going to be the way to go, as they are going to be much cooler sitting before a run and obviously will quickly come down will less speed... let alone a run going into the 103-114 mph trap speeds i've seen out of a lot of the 1/4 mile times.

If one is a track driver that runs a warm up lap, there might not be as much difference as people think. That of course would be up for debate though.

OP, depends on what you want... tubes and filters are fine if you don't want to spend too much and a decent gain, if you want all the power possible from intakes, then consider other options.

Add in the temp rise because of heat soak in the polished pipes of the G3 versus the more heat resistant silicone or rubber of the post MAF tubes of your choice. I would think that at speed the difference in temp would be negligible.

i've really been thinking of some kind of set-up where I could do an SRI type of system, but also get the colder air in.. I would use the fang vents of course, but even getting the temps down even more. A shame that using meth isn't really an option.

With our car, it's always the first mod that gives you the most 'power' gained. Then as you add in other mods, you don't see as much as other people when you do it in different orders. Someone with a new exhaust will see a 10hp increase over stock, then with their intakes see 2hp. In reverse someone who puts on new intakes sees the 10hp gain, then when they add exhaust, it's only a 2hp gain.

And again these gains are only seen with the stock ecu map. When you go to get your car tuned, that's when you see a larger improvement and also improved driveability because your ecu now knows your engine breathes easier. So that's where you get the most benefit out of it.

The best way to look at it is Where do you want to be power wise, and What are you willing to spend. Don't look at it as well if I get this intake, or this intake, or that intake... Look at it as I want Max HP and I don't care about cost. Or I'm on a tight budget and peak numbers aren't the most important.
Get all your mods done, then get a tune. That's where the numbers really matter, once you're done with Everything.

Lol if I get an intake that makes 1 more hp... ill get it lol

Op..as mentioned above... every dyno is different... order of mods will give you different results... hell, even the tuner can make more of a difference... some say the trick is air volume... some say its intake position... however, the unanimous agreement is that the air must be as cool as possible

Just make sure to buy it from KamiSpeed. :tup:

Lol well kami speed... hook me up with the price.

YEAH KamiSpeed... Where you at?!!!? :icon08:















:|

I love my HPS Tubes and Filters... but I may be going a different route so I might be getting rid of them this coming spring....




DAN

you going FI?

i ran hps and filters, also tried the injens. was much happier with the post maf tubes.

I ran drop ins with post maf tubes, then switched to g3's. g3's on my car are far superior to the previous setup.

Yes. It's good bang for the buck.

Noise and buttdyno calibration aside, you're looking at really only a few more whp (~4-5) for the G3's over the smooth tubes plus drop-ins based on a number of dyno runfiles that I've reviewed.

That said, I'll have new comparison data soon, so we'll see if it's consistent with what I've found previously or not.

well worth it for me, i got a bout 9rwhp with the AFE drop ins and the HPS post mafs

So, you got the same gains as the other guy with the G3's but saved 2-300 dollars. To me, sounds like a no brainer...

To be honest, if you didnt have to take the bumper off, id be more inclined to get the G3's, but if the gains are the same or that close, i just dont see the point myself... Especially after hearing about the G3's heating up alot and stuff. But im sure people will mention down sides of both setups...

i did, and i posted a dyno on it...it was about a year ago. the gen3 make a little more, not consistently the cherry picked advertised 18rwhp, but i would say about 12ish



that was my whole thought about taking off the front bumper, some people will say its not a hassle at all, but its not easier than popping two little latches to get the filters out of the box

I had drop ins and MAF tubes and unlike everyone else after matching it with long tube headers and a catback I was severely limited due to the setup not getting enough air. Went with long tube intakes from injen at a sick price from a forum member and its been way better since.

Do you have a dyno comparison? I am just curious as to what you mean by not getting enough air. I would think that the flow of panel filters vs open conic type would not be such a substantial amount of air flow.

Would love to see before and after fuel logs to verify those claims...

?

the stock air box should be more than capable to handle any amount air the car needs in an NA set up....hmmmm

That's seems... unlikely... even with open headers the factory intakes should flow more than enough air.

Did you have a tune? My guess is that fueling and or spark just wasn't optimized for the headers.

Anyway, I was a bit suprirsed at first to find little or no evidence of huge differences between a modified factory intake set-up and cone filters, which are theoretically much more flow friendly, but the difference does indeed seem to be fairly minimal.

The factory airboxes just aren't particularly restrictive (no wacky butterly valves in the way, and already has ducting to the bumper to bring in cooler air), and the plastic pieces do a good job of blocking underhood heat too. Nissan did a good job -- go figure.

Basically, the smoother tubes and less restrictive element flow about as well as the cone filters. The possibly (but unconfirmed to the best of my knowedge) cooler temps that might be achieved with the G3 or a similar CAI design, which may (or may not) have a better location to draw air than the factory ductwork are proably somewhat negated by the fact that metal tubing will also conduct more heat than plastic and silicone.

So, actually, the relatively small addditional gain over modded factory isn't really that surprising if you really think about it...

That said, if you are a serious power junkie and desperately want every last whp , if you can find the G3's for ~$200-$250 used, I think it would be worth it as you spend almost that much on high flow panel filters and tubes, so for a little more cash you get a few more hp.

Brand new, IMO, the price is kinda steep for what you gain in power over the modified factory set-up -- I guess if you really like the sound, one could argue that's another bonus to justify the price...

Oh, on that note, there is some evidence that cone filters that do not draw air from in front of the bumper (i.e., "short rams") appear to lose power over the factory boxes, a least on the basis of a few dynos...

So, cliff notes...

Bang for the buck = high flow filters + silicone smooth tubing.

Money no object, gimmie every last whp -- I live life a 1/4 mile at a time = some sort of CAI (i.e., "long tube") set up.