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I won't even get into how unreliable pointing an IR gun at the rotor is.
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About the only thing the IR gun will tell you is if one rotor is way hotter than another rotor. Which is useful for telling when the caliper brackets lock up on crap mustang brakes. |
^^well am glad you have offered up and implemented better solutions, and all you data so far has been invaluable!
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I think you seriously underestimate the amount of lab time I have.
4 points on the rotor is more than enough to get a good idea of temp and distribution. A series of 10 or so cars, with temps taken after several runs provided pretty solid data--certainly more rigorous than anything else that has been provided. I did find that at the end of the dragon, temps were pretty constant throughout the rotor. There wasn't much hot spotting, mostly due to it being a longer run without any hard braking zones. More telling was the diff temps, but I'll spare you the results |
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I think you seriously overestimate yourself. As long as different drivers were making those runs the data is totally junk, as everyones driving habits are different. You'd also have no solid proof that an entire run was made or that they had to slow down for half the time. It's near impossible to get a 100% clear run through the dragon when temps are above 40* unless you go at 4 am, so the likely hood that you got dozens of 100% clear runs with everyone driving almost identically is basically a load of crap. |
am having problems finding an emoticon for this threads progress
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Since we were all running together...have a pretty good idea what everyone went through...
Besides, the point is to show the variance based on different drivers.... I have about three different sets of same driver/different run data as well. But again, thanks for all you've contributed to the forum. I know people appreciate it. |
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Interestingly enough, AEM used to post evidence that their media outperformed paper and oiled cotton medias when literally caked with dirt. However, they also showed that it was inferior in flow to oiled media that was clean (go figure, they pulled the chart off their site -- I posted it here somewhere; probably in my gallery). Anyway, on a N/A motor the difference will be pretty negligible in terms of power (maybe a bit more of a difference on a boosted engine), but I find the oiled media tends to do a better job of rejecting moisture in the air, and it seems to flow better when clean, so that's what I go with. Additional heat shielding may or may not be worth it. It's pretty much unknown, but if metered air temps are close to ambient already when moving, then no. It might reject some radiant heat sitting at idle, especially on an already blazing hot day, but I doubt the difference would be more than 1-2 whp because the air itself is still going to be heated up above ambient as it's drawn inside the bumper. Won't hurt to experiment for sh!ts and grins, but really all this extra shielding is overkill for a DD -- The OEM airboxes proably work very well as they are and any further imporvements will yeild diminsihing returns. This might be something to think about for drag racing, but if so, while your at it, why not mist the IM down to control even more heat? Again, unless you can log what the ECU is seeing (or get a very good estimate with sets of thermistors) it's really hard to determine what effect if any extra shielding would have anyway. |
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If you wish to break it down into a more exact experiment then yes, we would need to do similar runs at precise times and record every detail, but that would be ludicrous and just plain stupid for what the results are showing. |
oh NOES an accidental space!!!
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A couple of runs through by a halfway decent driver is plenty enough to know that the sport brakes have zero issues on the dragon. The speeds at which braking occur and the breaks in between braking keep it from fading.
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I think Obama needs to host another beer meeting in the Rose Garden. :icon17:
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It not about fade. It's about how they heat, how the heat is distributed, how much winds up trapped in the caliper, etc. it's about knowing where to put your brake vents so thru actually help....
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because you need to duct brakes that aren't experiencing any fade :bowrofl:
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This gets better and better :bowrofl::roflpuke2::rofl2: |
Thermodynamics don't change between the street and the track, curiously enough.
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No but reliable retrieval of data does. You can't control what happens on the highway whereas you can at the track so the data would be immensely more accurate and relatable...you know...since you track your car so much anyway.
If it hasn't happend yet i expect to see some BS about how Z brakes get 1.368 degrees hotter than mustang brakes so we should all burn our cars to the ground and collect the insurance money. |
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you first |
Can't we all just agree to disagree and hug and make up? I figure we'll all be at ZDayZ next year... so c'mon. :icon17:
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all you 5.0s come to zdayz and take up precious cabin space from actual z owners?
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Hell, I founded and still run our local 370Z club, do free installs for everyone, pay for our meetup group, and generally love all things Z... it's all about being a car guy. |
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Hell, owners who go have not owned a Z since the 90s but still love the Z car and like to be around it. |
hey guys? Ummmm, this thread isn't even about brakes... why are we talking about them?
Zed, what I was talking about with the heat shielding wasn't just with the boxes... I plan on doing the boxes, and every part of the intake possible all the way to the engine bay, but I do need numbers to know how much temperature I could potentially be losing and thus an appoximate amount of how much power I could be gaining. Obviously winter time is rolling around and it won't matter as much, but here, it's not just the heat the humidity is almost always at least 80% and many times even higher. Like I said though... i'll have to get more exact temp readings. I don't know how much an oil cooler may also cool under the hood if at all, but that will be something i'm going to do as well. |
OMFG!!!!!!!!!!!!! what the hell is REALLY going on here??? This is some sort of deep rooted hate thing or what....
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I just got back from a little ride... got on the car a few times, nothing to redline or anything.
When I returned, I popped the hood and felt around the intake. The passenger side was hotter than the drivers for one. The radiator hose is HOT and part of it being under the passenger side airbox might be an area to help cool things off... the tubes going to the intake manifold are also pretty warm. Keep in mind that it's also only 60 degrees out today and very windy... my oil temps never even got to 200 degrees even getting on it. I think that i'm going to cover pretty much all of the intake areas at some point just to be safe. The boxes weren't hot, but you can feel they are well above ambient temp. |
Did you check interior temps on the tubes?
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This is from another thread where the internal temps had been measured... |
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