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So just ordered my Stillen SC

Originally Posted by Z&I Should be and (hoping) it is a complete kit ... If it is and has been tested it might be the way to go for me.

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Old 06-25-2014, 10:14 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z&I View Post
Should be and (hoping) it is a complete kit ...
If it is and has been tested it might be the way to go for me.
Just might end up putting the Stillen on my G37!
You wont be disappointed, Mine was awesome
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Old 06-26-2014, 12:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Mine only went 7k
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Old 06-27-2014, 03:45 AM   #3 (permalink)
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damn kit isn't rock up until Monday now!! grrrr

my heat exchanger from frozenboost rocked up today though, so still going to pull the car apart over the weekend and prepare for Monday. Will take front bar off tonight, have a look at what I need to do so the bar goes over the heat exchanger (hoping nothing), and take all the crap out of the boot to get ready for fuel pump.

Does anyone have the stillen install instructions in a PDF format? (or just any sort of advice what has to come out of the car and not go back in, fairly sure intakes etc.. obviously just from looking at pictures, but any other parts) will do most the tear down over the weekend..

Cheers!
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Old 06-27-2014, 06:55 AM   #4 (permalink)
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You can get the install instruction on the web, and your front bar you'll turn it upside down and reinstall it. Swiss370Z did that with his
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Old 06-27-2014, 08:01 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ANMVQ View Post
You can get the install instruction on the web, and your front bar you'll turn it upside down and reinstall it. Swiss370Z did that with his
Cheers man, Vlad another guy from Aus who has the stillen kit is going to send it to me in the morning

So far just some basic stuff; Took front bar off using this DIY - DIY: Front Bumper Removal

it was all good, except here in Aus we also have the headlight washers as well, so there was the headlight washer's I had to disconnect along with a hose for them that runs underneath the car (looking at the front of the car, easiest to disconnect the right one first, as it sits lower than the left hand side one making it easier to drain the fluid from here). There were 3 other brackets had to disconnect from the front bar as well, not sure what they are for exactly. I'd just had my service done on Monday, so my washer bottle was full, causing lots of water to come out when we disconnected the hoses haha, got a couple containers to drain the washer fluid out.

Also took off intakes/engine cover/strut bar for now.

11PM here, time to down some beers!
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Old 06-27-2014, 08:47 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Cheers man, Vlad another guy from Aus who has the stillen kit is going to send it to me in the morning

So far just some basic stuff; Took front bar off using this DIY - DIY: Front Bumper Removal

it was all good, except here in Aus we also have the headlight washers as well, so there was the headlight washer's I had to disconnect along with a hose for them that runs underneath the car (looking at the front of the car, easiest to disconnect the right one first, as it sits lower than the left hand side one making it easier to drain the fluid from here). There were 3 other brackets had to disconnect from the front bar as well, not sure what they are for exactly. I'd just had my service done on Monday, so my washer bottle was full, causing lots of water to come out when we disconnected the hoses haha, got a couple containers to drain the washer fluid out.

Also took off intakes/engine cover/strut bar for now.

11PM here, time to down some beers!
hey I know him, LOL Good guy man, Keep us posted for sure
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Old 06-30-2014, 04:57 AM   #7 (permalink)
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So far after 1 day, I can say my understanding of "bolt on" and stillen's is obviously a lot different lol, there's quite a lot of little customisation you need to do with the fuel pump/cutting body pieces/bending water lines (again was told would not have to drop coolant from the vehicle, this is definitely not the case, ended up just draining all the coolant to stop it from pouring out and spilling everywhere when needing to bend a water pipe/cut the hose shorter as outlined in the manual. So my service I got done last week, will need to get more coolant to fill-up once finished.

have installed the new fuel pump (this should really be offered as a complete drop in unit, the stuffing around you have to do to install the new fuel pump is beyond a joke). Of course once you do 1, the next ones would be easy, but for 1 off installs, there should be an option to purchase the pump/housing as a complete kit to drop in.

have got up to releasing the tension from the belt, couldn't get a socket onto it, may have to remove the fans to get to it properly, will have another look in the morning.

so up to page 12 of 37 in the manual. There is a lot of vague instruction which almost explains things as if you have done them before, some parts are really good and illustrate with specific pictures, other parts are rather poor with instruction.

Getting there!
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Old 06-30-2014, 06:17 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Installing stillen supercharger

HEY MIKEY

THIS LINK MAY HELP YOU FILL IN SOME OF THE BLANKS IN THE MANUAL

DIY Stillen Supercharger
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Old 07-01-2014, 03:34 AM   #9 (permalink)
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So day 2 down, finishing earlier today.

now up to page 17 of 37 for tomorrows start.

had to head out and buy a 3/8 breaker bar for the belt tensioner, couldn't get just the bar anywhere so bought a deep drive 3/8 socket set with the bar in it, I'll use the deep sockets on other stuff so no biggie.

lots of fiddling with bits and pieces today, probably the most pain in the *** thing was getting the 3 bolts underneath the new manifold tightened along with having to cut/re-solder 6 wires at each end for the throttle body extension (labelled as a harness in the manual, just 6 wires lol). they should really make this into an adapter clip, for the money you pay for the kit, really didn't expect to be doing things like that. Again lots of bending of pipes/brackets and cutting. you are told twice in the manual to bend the fuel line which is bolted to the front of the engine which goes to the fuel rails. the first bend it tells you to do shows the bent fuel sender at one angle, then later on it tells you to bend it again so you can get the front throttle body plug in, and another picture shows it at a completely different angle.. lol

spent some time also looking at the crash bar for mounting the frozen boost heat exchanger, will do the 180 on the crash bar and will probably end up making a bracket that bolts into the crash bar then to the heat exchanger so I don't have to do much cutting of the front bar, I've had a look at Vlad's and Ivo's way they have done it and will be a combination of both without cutting the crash bar/minimising cutting up the front bar.

installed new spark plugs as well while doing the injectors, went with HKS for those.

the standard spark plugs are different from other normal ones I've seen before, they were a different size so a spark plug socket wouldn't work, so we just used a normal socket to loosen them off and once they were unscrewed, used a magnetic light thing I have to pull them out, not sure what everyone else used here, but I would have been off buying more stuff if it wasn't for the magnetic light thing I have.

another thing not really indicated in the manual is the steps of doing things, a lot of time is wasted with having to undo parts you have already completed in order to make it easier or even fit some other parts on. whoever wrote the manual must have installed many kits beforehand and it's just in their head as the normal install.

It's been fun and frustrating at the same time, but can't wait for it to be finished!

Tomorrow we are onto mounting the supercharger and running more lines.

Last edited by mikey1600; 07-01-2014 at 06:14 AM.
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Old 07-02-2014, 09:42 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey1600 View Post
So day 2 down, finishing earlier today.

now up to page 17 of 37 for tomorrows start.

had to head out and buy a 3/8 breaker bar for the belt tensioner, couldn't get just the bar anywhere so bought a deep drive 3/8 socket set with the bar in it, I'll use the deep sockets on other stuff so no biggie.

lots of fiddling with bits and pieces today, probably the most pain in the *** thing was getting the 3 bolts underneath the new manifold tightened along with having to cut/re-solder 6 wires at each end for the throttle body extension (labelled as a harness in the manual, just 6 wires lol). they should really make this into an adapter clip, for the money you pay for the kit, really didn't expect to be doing things like that. Again lots of bending of pipes/brackets and cutting. you are told twice in the manual to bend the fuel line which is bolted to the front of the engine which goes to the fuel rails. the first bend it tells you to do shows the bent fuel sender at one angle, then later on it tells you to bend it again so you can get the front throttle body plug in, and another picture shows it at a completely different angle.. lol

spent some time also looking at the crash bar for mounting the frozen boost heat exchanger, will do the 180 on the crash bar and will probably end up making a bracket that bolts into the crash bar then to the heat exchanger so I don't have to do much cutting of the front bar, I've had a look at Vlad's and Ivo's way they have done it and will be a combination of both without cutting the crash bar/minimising cutting up the front bar.

installed new spark plugs as well while doing the injectors, went with HKS for those.

the standard spark plugs are different from other normal ones I've seen before, they were a different size so a spark plug socket wouldn't work, so we just used a normal socket to loosen them off and once they were unscrewed, used a magnetic light thing I have to pull them out, not sure what everyone else used here, but I would have been off buying more stuff if it wasn't for the magnetic light thing I have.

another thing not really indicated in the manual is the steps of doing things, a lot of time is wasted with having to undo parts you have already completed in order to make it easier or even fit some other parts on. whoever wrote the manual must have installed many kits beforehand and it's just in their head as the normal install.

It's been fun and frustrating at the same time, but can't wait for it to be finished!

Tomorrow we are onto mounting the supercharger and running more lines.

I use the coil-pack boot to remove and start old/new plugs, works like a champ.
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Old 07-02-2014, 03:49 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Day 3;

thought I'd throw up a few pictures as well (they have been added to my album), got a fair bit done today. Came up with a really good solution for everyone upgrading to the frozenboost heat exchanger, this involves the lower part of the crash bar frame (not the main beam) and using the arms as brackets so the heat exchanger sits back far enough so you don't have to cut up the front bar + don't have to cut up the crash bar itself. It's a combination between Vlad and Ivo's installs. Measured the heat exchanger to need to sit around 20-25mm behind being flush with the crash beam. You'll still need to remove the standard drain plug and find something to block the hole, I'll be trying to find a Hex key bolt like the one already on the unit in another place, and also cut out a whole in the plastic which screws to the front bar so I can drain the fluid when needed, just like you would with the engine's radiator. I'll label the pictures as Frozenboost so you get the idea, any questions just ask.

managed to mount the blower along with the water pump/water reservoir/overflow bottle/plumbing for it and put the new belt on, test fit the intakes to make sure they don't interfere with the heat exchanger positioning. I did have to move the horns, on the Aus models we have a High and Low horn, one is on either side of the front, I've had to move the one from the right (looking at the front of the car) to the left hand side, just used the same bracket as the existing one and put them both onto it. Also tidied up some of the cabling etc in the engine bay, it was starting to get all over the place, so removed some mounts, moved some cables under/over things and redone the mounts.

Tomorrow will be heading out first of all to get the water plugs/hex key for drain of the heat exchanger and getting distilled water (already have the MoCool) along with new genuine nissan coolant for engine (as I had to drain it even after being told multiple times would not!)

up to page 22 of 37 for tomorrows start after finishing off the cooler stuff, there's not many parts left over now, mainly some wiring to do and some more plumbing, STILL waiting on my tune file.... will be ringing vivid again tonight to try get it, also contacted my tuner and they are seeing if they have anything available from previous stillen installs.
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:39 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I'm not 100% sure with the stillen SC kit, but I know with other kits you can potentially drive on the stock tune for a short distance if you need to, to get to your tuner. Just keep it under 3k rpm and out of boost and be cautious, basically keeping the system thinking all is the same. How far is your tuner? Another option might be to tow the car.
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:53 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I'm not 100% sure with the stillen SC kit, but I know with other kits you can potentially drive on the stock tune for a short distance if you need to, to get to your tuner. Just keep it under 3k rpm and out of boost and be cautious, basically keeping the system thinking all is the same. How far is your tuner? Another option might be to tow the car.
Hmm,

so you think it would be safe if I don't get a tune in time just to start it/check for leaks and not drive it, I'm happy to get a tow if needed and I've advised them I may need one and they can organise it all for me. I was just worried cause we have changed fuel pump/injectors/spark plugs/maf sensor positions etc.. never really changed this much before and used a standard cars tune, I know they are a lot better these days with making adjustments.

tuner is about 50km (31-32miles) away, mostly highway driving as well, so would just be sitting in 6th around 2000-2500rpm. I could definitely shift under 3k rpm if needed, it's not gunna stall on me? lol
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:58 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I will have to check with others, because more so on how the stillen moves a few items versus other setups. I know some have started up on a stock tune to check for leaks while waiting and it was ok.
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Old 07-02-2014, 09:11 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Double Check with Stillen just to make sure ...
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