Originally Posted by 1slow370 try to keep the tape or putty away from the first thread though when you do it so it can't break down in the fitting and
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05-28-2014, 01:40 PM | #152 (permalink) | |
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Oh, and partly on-topic, for those who didnt know... stop using teflon tape on AN flare fittings! AN flares seal on the 37 degree flare, not the threads. AN O-Ring fittings seal on the o-ring against the receiving chamfer. AN washer fittings seal on the washer. Basically, straight threads = no tape, and tapered threads = tape. I am trying and cannot think of any application where straight threads are expected to provide the seal... and if the threads are not expected to seal, then no need for thread sealant.
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Last edited by phunk; 05-28-2014 at 01:43 PM. |
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05-28-2014, 03:28 PM | #153 (permalink) |
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Just got off the phone with Charles, awesome guy to talk with made me want to spend more money. Just FYI they do not have any raw billet mounts till next week. They have plenty of anodized ones.
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05-28-2014, 04:58 PM | #155 (permalink) |
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it should actually have 52 psi 100% of the time if you are not running a return fuel system.
if you have upgraded the fuel pump, it wouldnt be strange to see a little pressure spike at idle. if the idle pressure spike is really high, there are ways to correct it. A spike of up to 6psi or so at idle I would ignore since the o2 feedback will be able to handle this. Past that, I would consider making some modifications if there are issues with consistency in idle A/F. it also wouldnt be strange to see pressure fall a few psi towards redline on boosted cars as restrictions in the factory plumbing start to become noticable. Since the regulator is before these restrictions, the regulator doesnt see the pressure drop or react to it. This is one of the reasons for a RFS and putting the regulator up front. More than 4-5psi of fuel pressure drop is where i would strongly consider upgrading the fuel system. Fuel pressure drop means you have reached the edge of the existing fuel system, and the edge is unpredictable and inconsistent, and some days the drop could be quite greater than others and start causing big problems in the A/F ratios near redline.
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05-28-2014, 05:35 PM | #156 (permalink) |
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Ok so got the gauge installed. Here's what I'm seeing on the first run.
Idle/cruising car warm - 4.3-4.4 kPa (62 - 64 psi) Idle/cruising car cold - 5ish kPa (72 psi) Boosting car warm - 3.5 - 3.8 kPa (51 - 55 psi) It appears I'm consistently running 10psi high |
05-28-2014, 06:22 PM | #157 (permalink) |
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that is an example of a unhealthy fuel pressure curve. a side effect of upsetting the balance in the fuel pump module by putting a larger pump in without making the proper modifications to accommodate the much higher bypass fuel volume.
your fuel pump is overwhelming the regulator and/or venturi passages behind it. i am guessing you have larger than a 255lph in there to see as high as 72. the canister fill venturi on the bottom of the fuel pump module can be opened up a bit to bring your pressure back down. (this can serve as a reminder to me to work more on my (not-yet-so) "ultimate fuel pump" thread. the pressure comes down when you start burning more of the fuel because there is less volume that the regulator has to relieve, and backed up pressure from the venturi blockages begins to lower so the issues are correctable. if your A/Fs are staying inline, there is no immediate rush to resolve it.
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Last edited by phunk; 05-28-2014 at 06:26 PM. |
05-28-2014, 06:40 PM | #158 (permalink) | |
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Since AFRs are pretty good I figured I would wait until the S1 upgrade. Will that fuel return setup completely fix my issues? Or will we need to discuss other fixes? |
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05-28-2014, 06:46 PM | #159 (permalink) |
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Ah yes when I did the 340 pump originally I also saw the very large idle spikes. Drilling out of the canister fill venturi to just over 100 thousandths brought it down somewhere into the 50s which was good enough for me.
S1 system will help promote a healthy curve as you go up in power/boost... but the current idle pressure spike you have is a side effect of the pump and the fix for that is unrelated to the RFS upgrade. The RFS will still run the venturi's so the venturi flow has to be opened up a little to fix that idle spike. |
05-28-2014, 07:00 PM | #160 (permalink) | |
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05-28-2014, 08:02 PM | #162 (permalink) | |
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To put a stock fuel pump back in there with the oversized venturi would weaken the over-tank siphon and promote fuel starvation. |
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