I'm ready to order Charles can you tell me what your stock looks like???

I talked to him on Sunday I believe, he had black and bare, I picked up a bare one.

i stopped by and picked one up today. it looks awesome

Cosmo, I still have both... I think just 1 or 2 billet left and 4-5 black ones. Ill Probably make another 20-25 next week.

Thanks I just ordered. I will post up my dyno video using your gauge to see the fuel pressure on my build thread..

Man talk about fast, already got mine looks awesome thanks! I will install early next week heading out to coachella!

https://scontent-b-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/...43745676_n.jpg

Charles I just wanted to give a big THANKS for an Awsome and very useful product!!! Like I said when I have my car tuned I will be sure to have your gauge in there showing fuel pressure while doing some serious boost...

Installed. I like it, I like it a lot!


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I527 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2

Your gauge looks nothing like mine..

I ordered mine from Amazon. It's made by NRG

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I527 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2

gotcha that's cool man.

Phunk - Any update from GReddy on that pressure sender kit?

nothing but crickets so far!

Gotta love GReddy. The mulit-gauge itself was 2-3 weeks late.

ill put in an inquiry in the morning and see if they can give me any detail

Sounds good. I'm in no real hurry unless it can be in my hand by Thursday. I was hoping to hold off with my tune until I got this setup but I'm having to move my tune up.

I sent an email, should hear back before the end of the day

Response " 16401921

You are in line for the first one coming in…however, not due until June.

FYI
"

Wow...It really shocks me that they will market this Multi-gauge but not keep pressure senders in stock domestically. It would really suck if I had a bad one on the car that needed replacing and not looking to add an additional. I should have bought two and just kept one as a spare.

Thanks Phunk. Guess we'll touch base in June.

Is the sender proprietary or just the plug into the brain?

I'm not sure. If we had the harness I'm sure you could splice any sender into it. Best I know it's just sending voltage but it wouldn't shock me to find out GReddy did something to make sure you only use their stuff.

Does the multi-guage have anything for programming your own 0-5V inputs?

I don't believe it does. The only inputs I saw in the entire wiring were for the module and the gauge. It didn't contain any other inputs like my innovate.

... got mine installed this weekend. Looks pretty good in there ... I ditched the little plate as opposed to grinding the tab off. One thing I notice is after sitting all night the gauge always reads zero ... starts right up and I see no leaks. When idling it reads about 40-42.

http://www.the370z.com/members/sixpa...e78325-cjm.jpg

Phunk would you mind ordering a second sender? Even if the second one ships later it'd be worth it to me to keep a spare since I'll have two on the car (oil and fuel) and it appears to be a pain to get one.

Sure I will forward over a message to do so

:tiphat:

Phunk. Are we supposed to Teflon the gauge or not before we install it on the multi-fitting?

Yup! Teflon on any NPT thread for the most part. Some are dry seal but generally not.

try to keep the tape or putty away from the first thread though when you do it so it can't break down in the fitting and plug one of your injectors

This is always good practice.

Agreed, always good practice to be aware of your excess teflon tape. We only want it on the threads, not inside the plumbing.

Oh, and partly on-topic, for those who didnt know... stop using teflon tape on AN flare fittings! AN flares seal on the 37 degree flare, not the threads. AN O-Ring fittings seal on the o-ring against the receiving chamfer. AN washer fittings seal on the washer. Basically, straight threads = no tape, and tapered threads = tape. I am trying and cannot think of any application where straight threads are expected to provide the seal... and if the threads are not expected to seal, then no need for thread sealant.

Just got off the phone with Charles, awesome guy to talk with made me want to spend more money. Just FYI they do not have any raw billet mounts till next week. They have plenty of anodized ones.

Phunk. What fuel pressure should we look for idle cruising and say 10lbs. Still running the stock rail

it should actually have 52 psi 100% of the time if you are not running a return fuel system.

if you have upgraded the fuel pump, it wouldnt be strange to see a little pressure spike at idle. if the idle pressure spike is really high, there are ways to correct it. A spike of up to 6psi or so at idle I would ignore since the o2 feedback will be able to handle this. Past that, I would consider making some modifications if there are issues with consistency in idle A/F.

it also wouldnt be strange to see pressure fall a few psi towards redline on boosted cars as restrictions in the factory plumbing start to become noticable. Since the regulator is before these restrictions, the regulator doesnt see the pressure drop or react to it. This is one of the reasons for a RFS and putting the regulator up front. More than 4-5psi of fuel pressure drop is where i would strongly consider upgrading the fuel system. Fuel pressure drop means you have reached the edge of the existing fuel system, and the edge is unpredictable and inconsistent, and some days the drop could be quite greater than others and start causing big problems in the A/F ratios near redline.

Ok so got the gauge installed. Here's what I'm seeing on the first run.

Idle/cruising car warm - 4.3-4.4 kPa (62 - 64 psi)

Idle/cruising car cold - 5ish kPa (72 psi)

Boosting car warm - 3.5 - 3.8 kPa (51 - 55 psi)

It appears I'm consistently running 10psi high

that is an example of a unhealthy fuel pressure curve. a side effect of upsetting the balance in the fuel pump module by putting a larger pump in without making the proper modifications to accommodate the much higher bypass fuel volume.

your fuel pump is overwhelming the regulator and/or venturi passages behind it. i am guessing you have larger than a 255lph in there to see as high as 72. the canister fill venturi on the bottom of the fuel pump module can be opened up a bit to bring your pressure back down. (this can serve as a reminder to me to work more on my (not-yet-so) "ultimate fuel pump" thread.

the pressure comes down when you start burning more of the fuel because there is less volume that the regulator has to relieve, and backed up pressure from the venturi blockages begins to lower

so the issues are correctable. if your A/Fs are staying inline, there is no immediate rush to resolve it.

I'm running the 340lph. AFRs are pretty good. Closed loop I stay between 14.7-15.2. Open loop I'm mid 11's under load. It goes a little rich if I apply throttle a real low rpms (like being in 2nd under 1500 rpms and accelerate in traffic). It clears up almost immediately.

Since AFRs are pretty good I figured I would wait until the S1 upgrade. Will that fuel return setup completely fix my issues? Or will we need to discuss other fixes?

Ah yes when I did the 340 pump originally I also saw the very large idle spikes. Drilling out of the canister fill venturi to just over 100 thousandths brought it down somewhere into the 50s which was good enough for me.

S1 system will help promote a healthy curve as you go up in power/boost... but the current idle pressure spike you have is a side effect of the pump and the fix for that is unrelated to the RFS upgrade. The RFS will still run the venturi's so the venturi flow has to be opened up a little to fix that idle spike.

I'll admit I'm not absolutely sure what you are referring to being drilled. Do you offer an upgraded tube that wouldn't require drilling? The thought of doing something not reversible leaves me a little uneasy.