What is with the post office site??

Looks like I might have to upgrade some to FedEx just to get these shipped.


Anodizer just called me. They are already done! Unfortunately I cannot make it to downtown Chicago to pick them up until Friday I am thinking. I have some other parts I need to get ready to drop off there before making the trip. Friday should be the day! I will ship them same day.

annnnnd ordered

So what's up? Did it ship out?

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Post office has been down for 2 days now. Changed it to FedEx today and ate the cost. Yes it shipped and you were already emailed tracking.

Post Office is back up!

Down to 5 left in billet, and there are 7 left of the anodized ones coming back.

Guess I will have to make another batch of these soon.

Set a billet one a side for me cuz that baby is sold as soon as the GReddy sensor comes in!

would like a blue anodized if possible to match my JRZ rs pro blue lol!!

Only doing billet or black. No other colors. I'd probably have gone blue too since it matches my theme

I anodize parts blue every 4-6 weeks... so I could do that. however, our shade of blue is a sort of deep blue.. not quite a navy but almost. It would be no effort for me to toss a pair of them in the blue bin.

I'm cool with billet or blue. When it comes to a G you'll never see it since the enginer cover, covers it. I'll take whatever you keep in stock when it's time for my shipment. If it's blue, cool. If not billet is fine with me.

Thanks for your quickness and responds to the shipping and questions.

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I got mine today ... thanks for the prompt shipment Charles. Nifty packing job, and the parts are very, very nice looking. More bling bling, and functionality ! Hopefully I don't catch anything on fire putting it on, I am fairly clutsy. :tup:

Brief installation notes:

Let the car sit for a few hours before installation so that both the engine and fuel can cool, and so that at least a few psi of the fuel pressure can seep out before opening the line.

Either hide the key, or disconnect the battery. If someone powers on the car during install, fuel is going to spray all over the place.

Tools needed:

10mm socket on a ratchet
5mm allen wrench
Roll of paper towls, or a bunch of rags.
thread sealant


A: Install either a 1/8 NPT plug, sensor, or pressure gauge to the front of the CJ fitting with thread sealant. You can use teflon tape or paste. If you use tape, just try not to let it hang over and get on the inside of the fuel plumbing.

B: Make sure you have everything: The CJ fuel tap (which is now plugged with either a NPT plug, or a sensor or gauge.), you should have 2 SS bolts about 1.5" long, and a pair of SS washers. Make sure the viton oring on the bottom of the CJ fuel tap is both installed, and looks healthy.

C: Locate the fuel line and damper input flange. It is located at the front end of the passenger side valvecover.

D: Surround yourself with several rags within reach, use one hand to hold the damper and line down, while removing the 10mm bolts. The fuel is under pressure, so do not take your hand off, keep holding the part down after removing the bolts.

E: Surround the entire area with rags, because there will be a brief blast of fuel when you lift up the damper and hose. You want to basically mummy wrap the area so that it all gets absorbed when you lift up. Make sure your eyes are protected from spray.

F: With the entire area protected from fuel blast, and with your eyes protected, slowly slowly lift up on the damper/hose. You have about 1/4" up to go before the fuel will start coming out. If you go slow enough, you can get the fuel pressure to just seep into your rags. I usually hold the rags tight around while I lift up to make sure they absorb it, and you can usually feel the rags get cold/wet as it soaks in. You will be able to tell when you are lifted completely off.

G: Once you are lifted off and away, you are safe to continue. Dry up any fuel that got away.

H: There is probably a small puddle of fuel down in the fuel rail inlet fitting. Dab a tiny bit of that fuel on the viton oring of the CJ fitting to lubricate it, and then slide the CJ fitting down into the fuel rail inlet flange.

I: Now install the fuel damper/line into the CJ fitting. Secure it using the 2 SS bolts and washers, and use the 5mm allen wrench to tighten.

J: You are done! Make sure everything is snug and dry.

K: go into the car, and turn the car on without starting the engine. To do this in a 6MT, act like you are going to start the car, but do not push the clutch in. It will just turn everything on without starting. I assume this is the same for a 7AT you just dont press the brake peddle down. Doing this will prime the fuel pump momentarily. It might not have been enough to build full pressure, but it should be good enough to go check for leaks and make sure the gauge is reading some pressure if you have one.

L: If you have any leaks, and you dont know why, do not start the engine. Post here, or contact me, or call a buddy mechanic... whatever you do, dont drive around with a fuel leak!


Anyone think of anything I am missing? I just typed this up out of memory.

Thanks Charles ... these were written so even sixpax could understand :tup:

Charles, any pick up options? Don't really think it's necessary to ship when I'm so close.

Yes I would like to know this too. I wanna get one when I get back in town next week if they are in stock!

Sure, $5 cash discount for saving me on the processing fees. Just get in touch with me before coming out because I come and go all day sometimes.

Perfect! See you in a week or so. Silver in stock?

Yes I will hide one in a desk drawer now for you! Remind me if I say its out of stock.

Awesome thank you!

Good write up. :tup: I found it best to just leave the Z sit over night before working on the fuel system. This way. All of the fuel pressure has bled off. ;)

I agree when that is an option... but you still have to take the measures because some cars will hold their pressure for dayyyys

I should of said "most of the pressure". Thinking back after I installed mine. Sometimes it would show 20 lbs or more the next day.

My z hasn't ran for 7 months now, and I've had the fuel system apart already, so I shouldn't have a prob with fuel pressure lol

Awesome ill probably try to make it out sometime within next 2-3 weeks. Ill pm you in advance of that. :tup:

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Black ones shipped today. Will get pics up this weekend

sweet!, when you have some time or next time u run a blue run, please lmk I'll take one for sure!

Just ordered one thank you for all these awesome parts!

I just received word that the wiring harness bracket in front of the gauge area needs to be trimmed to clear the gauge.

I over looked this, as I removed that bracket on my car several years ago. I didnt realize that it came that far over.

If anyone has a problem with trimming or removing this bracket, I will accept the kits back and issue a full refund.

For all future buyers, please note that trimming some extra material off a harness bracket is required! I will try and get good photos of this ASAP.

thanks for the heads up. I have no issues I got a nice grinder I like to use lmao!

Well in that case... remove the bracket ENTIRELY and grind it at least 20 feet away from your car while the fuel line is open!!! Then re-install bracket!

I need to try and find this bracket in my garage so I can show pics of how to clearance it.

hahah, yea not using the grinder this time!

Look what arrived,

https://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/...18122464_n.jpg

Installed the CJM fuel gauge adaptor. Quick and easy. There is one small issue, there is a bracket that needs to be modified or removed. Follow along with the pics to see what I mean.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7392/...ac7365c7_c.jpg

This is the offending piece of bracket. You can cut or grind this tab off, or remove it.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2877/...bbc2bde3_c.jpg

I chose to remove it. But now the MAF sensor wire is sticking out like a sore thumb.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7114/...84d90244_c.jpg

No problem, unplugged and rerouted. Nice and clean now.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7183/...f737b119_c.jpg

All done,

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3823/...7058d445_c.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3798/...5b11645d_c.jpg

Works,

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7114/...5ecef684_c.jpg

Looks hood


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Looks great I will do the same and just remove the bracket

GaleForce; I can't thank you enough for posting that. Really a life saver for me right now with how much I have going on this week. You saved me at least a hour. Thanks.

Btw we have identical granite in the kitchen

Glad I could be of help. I wouldn't even recommend cutting the bracket. It's easier, and cleaner to remove it. Great product. Thanks!

We love it. it's in our bathrooms too. :tup:

I removed that bracket when I rerouted the starter cable through the cowl. One of the first things I did. I couldn't stand that cable draped across the whole front of the engine. Just one more thing adding to the clutter which is already 4x worse than the DE... And the DE had the starter on passenger side so no mega cable sagging across.

It's been so long I totally forgot it exists until a member PMd me today!