Nissan 370Z Forum - Blown Motor, Engine Rebuild/Replacement.

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Good time to check the plastic intake manifold for cracks.

Well I made a little more progress today along with purchasing a Aeromotive 11142 Fuel Pump....:tup:

Those dyno graphs look really nice.. I would switch kits if I could a decent amount for my gtm TT kit but I really doubt it...

Any other suggestions on parts before the new engine goes back in? Was considering different motor mounts..??

Quote:

Originally Posted by cosmogirl (Post 2607707)

Was considering different motor mounts..??

I was actually going to suggest this earlier, but I forgot. Do the motor mounts. I wish I had done them with my install. Once the motor is in, there's too much turbo plumbing in the way to swap them out easily. Do the tranny mount too, although that one is apparently an easy DIY with everything in place. Also, consider swapping the heater hoses out for the Z1 silicone ones for longevity purposes.

Another thought- what about the Nismo oil pump? That way you can raise the redline and not have to worry about the OEM pump puking its guts out at 8k rpm.

It's funny you mention the oil pump because PHUNK is currently working on one from a GTR for that very same reason.
Please excuse my ignorance but how will the solid motor mounts help??

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2607724)

Another thought- what about the Nismo oil pump? That way you can raise the redline and not have to worry about the OEM pump puking its guts out at 8k rpm.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cosmogirl (Post 2607734)

It's funny you mention the oil pump because is currently working on one from a GTR for that very same reason.
Please excuse my ignorance but how will the solid motor mounts help??

Oh, I wouldn't go with the solid ones unless it's a race car. I'll be going with the poly ones from Z1. On every car I've put them on, harder motor and trans mounts just tightened up the feel of the entire drivetrain. It's a noticable difference. There's just less slop. On/off throttle transitions don't have to compress the soft stock mounts anymore before the power reaches the wheels.

Hey thanks chuck, I will go ahead and order them do you have a link?

Not offhand, but I'm sure you've got a link to Z1 on your computer already. We all do. :rofl2:

Found them, and here is a link for others who may need them..

Z1 Motorsports 370Z/G37/R35 Urethane Motor Mounts

Here is a list of my build as of now.

1. Custom CP Pistons 10:1 (.5mm over)
2. K1 Connecting Rods
3. ARP Head Stud Kit (L19's) OEM Head Gaskets
4. Cryogenics
5. Aeromotive 11142 Fuel Pump
6. 1000cc Injectors
7. Z1 Motorsports Urethane Motor Mount

I am open to any other suggestions that may help the longevity of my engine... :tiphat:

Are you going to need bigger injectors?

On the head studs...L19's are a must on built motors IMO. Not a bad deal here:

ARP VQ37VHR L19 Head Studs

Too many guys on the VQ35 have gone with VHR head studs, or L17's, only to have head lift issues as soon as they get off the dyno.

So you think I may have issues with the ARP 202-4701's? When I checked on the tq specs it showed 85 ft...

in case you missed it from page 1, I would do everything on the list if you can

Quote:

Originally Posted by esfourteen (Post 2583687)

This is basically what I did, but if you're tearing apart the engine and shooting for 600whp and reliability lets actually be realistic about the parts list:

ARP main studs
ARP L19 head studs
K1 Rods
Wiseco pistons
OEM bearings, Calico coated (theres no aftermarket available)
Cosworth headgaskets
engine gasket set
rear main seal (doesn't come with the gasket set for some reason)
timing chain/tensioners
water pump
oil pump
pickup tube

Recommended (especially if you want to beat on the car in the summer):
Re-routing the turbo coolant lines (GTM chains the coolant lines together so the driver turbo is cooled with the water exiting the passenger turbo)
Upgraded radiator (mishimoto works great)
2012+ coolant expansion tank
2012+ coolant hard pipe (expansion tank returns to this pipe now, above the driver side manifold)
Ceramic coating for manifolds, turbine housings, downpipes
Bracing the driver side manifold (the GTM driver side manifold has a tendency to crack along the runner due to stress from supporting the turbo)

I would also highly recommend a set of Z1 motor and transmission mounts and a whiteline poly diff bushing to actually put all of this power to the road.