Top three gauges to have in a boosted car?

MnTBlitz · 08-30-2013, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Those are the top three. I've got boost and AFR on the A pillar, and eventually I'll swap the ones on the dash to oil pressure, EGT and a multigauge for water and oil temp.

What would you be able to tell by monitoring the EGT? I was looking to go with the Boost, AFR, Oil Pressure, and Water Temp. Keeping all the factory gauges where they are. I wasnt planning on changing the radiator yet if I dont have to. This way i can atleast monitor the water temp if it becomes a problem.

Sh0velMan · 08-30-2013, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MnTBlitz

What would you be able to tell by monitoring the EGT? I was looking to go with the Boost, AFR, Oil Pressure, and Water Temp. Keeping all the factory gauges where they are. I wasnt planning on changing the radiator yet if I dont have to. This way i can atleast monitor the water temp if it becomes a problem.

It will.

mfeinst · 08-30-2013, 03:18 PM

I've always been in the Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, AFR camp with a boost controller, and Oil Pressure, AFR, Boost without one.

Oil temp is special on the Z, though. We all know. :P

Driftomodachi · 08-30-2013, 05:28 PM

GReddy

Arrvaxx · 08-30-2013, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driftomodachi

GReddy

Great gauges...too bad they are too big.

MnTBlitz · 08-30-2013, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driftomodachi

GReddy

Doesn't look like it will accept an AFR sensor either

roplusbee · 08-30-2013, 08:46 PM

I have Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure, and Boost on my A-Pillar. All that I need to know if something is going wrong (or has already gone wrong). Kicked around the idea of EGT, but I can't ready justify it.

Driftomodachi · 08-30-2013, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driftomodachi

GReddy

I would go with this gauge using Boost, Oil Press, Fuel Press, Water Temp and EGT. The gauge has alerts if anything goes out of parameter. Mount it flush in the navi bin along side an innovate wideband gauge.

Rooskey · 08-31-2013, 12:24 AM

Oil pressure, motor temp, and volt meter. Add a boost gauge to your column. You need a volt meter to make sure your car is producing enough volts to produce enough spark for your ignition system. Especially with a blower. If you have a big stereo it will draw alot of amps and take away from your ignition system (causing detonation).

1slow370 · 08-31-2013, 02:59 AM

low voltage causes misfire not detonation from weak ignition, but more importantly it reduces fuel pump output and increases injector latency and reduces pulse width which could lean your motor and cause a boom, and for this reason fuel pressure and AFR are more important than voltage (which came about from the carb era racing with no battery, or crappy batteries and crummy generators yes it is more important then).

Oil temperature tells you if your oil is still thick enough, oil pressure tells you how well you are actually oiling your motor, since the oil light on the Z doesn't come on until after you've looked in your mirror to notice a streak of oil being shot out of your oil cooler behind you i would venture to say the pressure gauge is more important (not to mention the ecu will limp if your temps get to high but it wont if it suffers oil pressure loss).

Fuel pressure will tell you when you run out of pump, but afr will too (and soooo much more), so i would take the afr over the fuel pressure.

If you have an afr gauge you don't need the egt on anything other than a turbo car and even then it is more about placing it near the turbine inlet, so you can monitor the turbo to prevent cooking it while running, or coking it after shutting it off. AFR trumps EGT while driving, EGT is mainly used while tuning a car and after that it is mostly ignored.

Coolant temp is important and it sucks that the factory gauge sucks so bad, i swear the middle dot has got to have a 50 degree range to the next dot.

If you think you need fuel temperature, make sure to get it in a combo gauge with an altimeter and a barometer so you can monitor how light-headed and high you are. Boost is good to check your boost maker and cuz biches.

A knock light is a GREAT thing to have and you can just poke a hole somewhere for it, but the ecu will try to save you when the ish goes down.

IMO the list would go AFR, boost, oil pressure, coolant temp, fuel pressure, oil temp, voltage, EGT(unless it's turbo then slip this in between coolant temp and fuel). I use that list for buying gauges and order how to place them based on best visibility to least, then clock them all so that while running at the track all the needles point in one direction so i don't actually have to read them cuz it's a waste of focus, just have to notice one isn't pointed in the right direction.

Sub-note: Most people should just buy some gauges that look pretty and do a number on the biches, as you won't be reading most of the time(i don't) or understanding them anyway past coming on here and starting threads like "is 211degrees too hot for coolant temps?" There are gauges a tuner needs and then there are gauges YOU need.

roplusbee · 09-01-2013, 01:51 PM

I like the sub note!

Chuck33079 · 09-01-2013, 02:29 PM

I'm on board with pretty much all of that. The only thing is do differently is put the temp probe for EGT in the exhaust manifold. I want to see if I'm about to melt a valve. I'm not concerned as much with the turbos, since they're water cooled in addition to oil cooled, and modern synthetics don't have nearly as much of a risk of coking.

roplusbee · 09-01-2013, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

I'm on board with pretty much all of that. The only thing is do differently is put the temp probe for EGT in the exhaust manifold. I want to see if I'm about to melt a valve. I'm not concerned as much with the turbos, since they're water cooled in addition to oil cooled, and modern synthetics don't have nearly as much of a risk of coking.

So for those of us that have unmodified 20Gs, we just have to ensure that we run a cooldown phase before shutdown. If I could have installed a turbo timer without the wiring nightmare, I would have lol.

Chuck, what do you use for electronic gauge output (not physical gauges)? I just can't do the Camp II. I would rather run 3 on my pillar and replace the 3 in the stock location.

Chuck33079 · 09-01-2013, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roplusbee

So for those of us that have unmodified 20Gs, we just have to ensure that we run a cooldown phase before shutdown. If I could have installed a turbo timer without the wiring nightmare, I would have lol.

Chuck, what do you use for electronic gauge output (not physical gauges)? I just can't do the Camp II. I would rather run 3 on my pillar and replace the 3 in the stock location.

At the moment I'm just running boost and AFR on the a pillar. I haven't decided how to handle the rest.

roplusbee · 09-01-2013, 06:00 PM

Chuck:

I feel your pain. I should have all this sorted out once it is time to end the motor off for forged internals.

08-30-2013, 08:46 PM	#37 (permalink)
roplusbee A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Killeen, TX Posts: 2,360 Drives: 2007 350Z NISMO Rep Power: 22	I have Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure, and Boost on my A-Pillar. All that I need to know if something is going wrong (or has already gone wrong). Kicked around the idea of EGT, but I can't ready justify it. __________________ 2007 350Z NISMO #0618: Zerolift \| UPREV \| F.I. \| Greddy \| Competition Clutch \| Injector Dynamics \| Aeromotive \| Pioneer \| JL

08-31-2013, 12:24 AM	#39 (permalink)
Rooskey Track Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: South Carolina Posts: 974 Drives: 2014 Alpha7 GTR Rep Power: 15	Oil pressure, motor temp, and volt meter. Add a boost gauge to your column. You need a volt meter to make sure your car is producing enough volts to produce enough spark for your ignition system. Especially with a blower. If you have a big stereo it will draw alot of amps and take away from your ignition system (causing detonation). Last edited by Rooskey; 08-31-2013 at 12:27 AM.

08-31-2013, 02:59 AM	#40 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7250	low voltage causes misfire not detonation from weak ignition, but more importantly it reduces fuel pump output and increases injector latency and reduces pulse width which could lean your motor and cause a boom, and for this reason fuel pressure and AFR are more important than voltage (which came about from the carb era racing with no battery, or crappy batteries and crummy generators yes it is more important then). Oil temperature tells you if your oil is still thick enough, oil pressure tells you how well you are actually oiling your motor, since the oil light on the Z doesn't come on until after you've looked in your mirror to notice a streak of oil being shot out of your oil cooler behind you i would venture to say the pressure gauge is more important (not to mention the ecu will limp if your temps get to high but it wont if it suffers oil pressure loss). Fuel pressure will tell you when you run out of pump, but afr will too (and soooo much more), so i would take the afr over the fuel pressure. If you have an afr gauge you don't need the egt on anything other than a turbo car and even then it is more about placing it near the turbine inlet, so you can monitor the turbo to prevent cooking it while running, or coking it after shutting it off. AFR trumps EGT while driving, EGT is mainly used while tuning a car and after that it is mostly ignored. Coolant temp is important and it sucks that the factory gauge sucks so bad, i swear the middle dot has got to have a 50 degree range to the next dot. If you think you need fuel temperature, make sure to get it in a combo gauge with an altimeter and a barometer so you can monitor how light-headed and high you are. Boost is good to check your boost maker and cuz biches. A knock light is a GREAT thing to have and you can just poke a hole somewhere for it, but the ecu will try to save you when the ish goes down. IMO the list would go AFR, boost, oil pressure, coolant temp, fuel pressure, oil temp, voltage, EGT(unless it's turbo then slip this in between coolant temp and fuel). I use that list for buying gauges and order how to place them based on best visibility to least, then clock them all so that while running at the track all the needles point in one direction so i don't actually have to read them cuz it's a waste of focus, just have to notice one isn't pointed in the right direction. Sub-note: Most people should just buy some gauges that look pretty and do a number on the biches, as you won't be reading most of the time(i don't) or understanding them anyway past coming on here and starting threads like "is 211degrees too hot for coolant temps?" There are gauges a tuner needs and then there are gauges YOU need. roplusbee, MnTBlitz and GrizzlyNizzly like this. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

09-01-2013, 01:51 PM	#41 (permalink)
roplusbee A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Killeen, TX Posts: 2,360 Drives: 2007 350Z NISMO Rep Power: 22	I like the sub note! __________________ 2007 350Z NISMO #0618: Zerolift \| UPREV \| F.I. \| Greddy \| Competition Clutch \| Injector Dynamics \| Aeromotive \| Pioneer \| JL

09-01-2013, 02:29 PM	#42 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29538	Top three gauges to have in a boosted car? I'm on board with pretty much all of that. The only thing is do differently is put the temp probe for EGT in the exhaust manifold. I want to see if I'm about to melt a valve. I'm not concerned as much with the turbos, since they're water cooled in addition to oil cooled, and modern synthetics don't have nearly as much of a risk of coking. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

08-30-2013, 03:18 PM	#33 (permalink)
mfeinst Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Greater Philly Area Posts: 272 Drives: Mercedes C43 AMG Rep Power: 12	I've always been in the Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, AFR camp with a boost controller, and Oil Pressure, AFR, Boost without one. Oil temp is special on the Z, though. We all know. :P

08-30-2013, 05:28 PM	#34 (permalink)
Driftomodachi Enthusiast Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Cerritos, CA Posts: 482 Drives: 2010 40th Rep Power: 13	GReddy

09-01-2013, 06:00 PM	#45 (permalink)
roplusbee A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Killeen, TX Posts: 2,360 Drives: 2007 350Z NISMO Rep Power: 22	Chuck: I feel your pain. I should have all this sorted out once it is time to end the motor off for forged internals. __________________ 2007 350Z NISMO #0618: Zerolift \| UPREV \| F.I. \| Greddy \| Competition Clutch \| Injector Dynamics \| Aeromotive \| Pioneer \| JL

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