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Fillerbunnie's GTM Stage 1 Supercharger build (Australian RHD)

Just read this build mate, I'll keep an eye on it for sure, pitty I'm in brissy would love to see it!! keep us updated if you require any special

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Old 01-23-2013, 05:55 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Just read this build mate, I'll keep an eye on it for sure, pitty I'm in brissy would love to see it!!

keep us updated if you require any special tools for certain jobs, would be a great help as I'm planning to do this myself towards the end of the year it's awesome the way you are explaining certain sections of the guide and which pictures you have had problems with and the resolutions, really helps!

good luck with the rest and enjoy!
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:37 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mikey1600 View Post
Just read this build mate, I'll keep an eye on it for sure, pitty I'm in brissy would love to see it!!

keep us updated if you require any special tools for certain jobs, would be a great help as I'm planning to do this myself towards the end of the year it's awesome the way you are explaining certain sections of the guide and which pictures you have had problems with and the resolutions, really helps!

good luck with the rest and enjoy!
Hey Mate,

Yeah I'm keeping a log of everything that was different between the USDM & AUDM vehicles. A few things so far, but nothing that can't be cut/ground/soldered around so far!

Intercooler is mounted now, just doing the piping & oil filter relocation and I'm done. Should be starting it up Monday.
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:01 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Kit is in!!

After a couple of minor setbacks (AUDM vehicles have oil coolers, so you can't bolt the oil filter relocation plate to the block as the stock stud is too long) I started the car up last night.

All good except for a couple of issues to do with the tune - The idle is fine, but every 5-10 seconds it drops to ~400pm, almost like it will stall, then back up to normal idling. The other issue is that my AFR correction factor sits at about 80-90% when under low-moderate throttle under 3000rpm (still on my 100km run-in), when Sam says it should be 90%-110%, with 100% being ideal.

I've emailed sam, just waiting on a reply.

For the most part, the install went flawlessly. There were quite a number of minor differences between the US and Australian cars, which I will detail in an updated install guide for Australian cars. In short:

- AUDM power steering cooler is larger (still fits, I had to modify the bracket)
- AUDM cars have 2 horns, so the second horn needs to be mounted as well (can be done without too much trouble)
- AUDM cars have the pop-up bonnet system for pedestrian impacts, which UpRev does not yet support, leading to a permanent dash warning light (annoyance only - I assume the system won't function, but I don't plan on hitting any pedestrians)
- AUDM cars have 3 extra airbag/crash sensors for the pop-up hood system when you hit a pedestrian. 2 of the 3 are attached to the bumper baffles which need removing for air flow, so you will need to retrofit them to the bumper (or remove)
- AUDM cars have an additional aluminium front crash bar extension which needs to be removed to mount the intercooler (in theory I could have mounted it with the intercooler, but it was very tight and the crash bar extension is very flimsy - Almost appears to be a bumper support rather than a crash bar)
- AUDM cars ALL have water-to-oil coolers. The stock stud that goes between the filter and the block is quite long and you cannot mount the bypass plate for the oil filter relocation. I had to machine myself a new stud (I threaded the old stud fully, then cut it down with a grinder) to make it work
- AUDM cars use the stock power steering pressure line, which you have to bend slightly at the pump end to route over the belt system
- AUDM cars require the extension of the power steering pressure sensor connector (this may be all cars, but it wasn't in the instructions)

- I hate push-lok hose. It might be good, but **** it is hard to put on!!!
- I hate constant-tension clamps!!!

I have a good mechanical knowledge but all self-taught. I found the install quite simple overall, just time consuming (maybe 40 hours in total, but I moved very slowly/methodically). There were very few moments where I thought "****, what do I do now???"

I'll be posting some more details when I have the tune all sorted, but in short:

GTM's Stage 1 S/C kit, while a few years old and a few revisions on, is an incredibly well engineered product. It honestly felt like I was installing OEM equipment. The physical layout of everything (the relocation of the pumps, alternator) _just works_. Sam, Mike and the guys must have spent a LOT of time getting the kit engineered as well as it is. The brackets are all top notch, solid, and lined up like the came from the Nissan factory.

The only issue I have had is getting email replies from the guys - They are obviously VERY busy (And I can see why!) but sometimes I would wait for a week or so to get a reply. I guess I could have called, but this was never super-urgent for me, so I can't really judge overall on the response time.. I suspect if I had life-and-death issues I would have called and gotten responses right away.

I will reserve final judgement once the tune/is all sorted and I am on-boost, but I can pretty confidently say I am unbelievably happy so far with the kit, and the guys at GTM.

Top class gear guys!
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Last edited by fillerbunnie; 02-07-2013 at 10:08 PM.
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:01 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fillerbunnie View Post
Kit is in!!

After a couple of minor setbacks (AUDM vehicles have oil coolers, so you can't bolt the oil filter relocation plate to the block as the stock stud is too long) I started the car up last night.

All good except for a couple of issues to do with the tune - The idle is fine, but every 5-10 seconds it drops to ~400pm, almost like it will stall, then back up to normal idling. The other issue is that my AFR correction factor sits at about 80-90% when under low-moderate throttle under 3000rpm (still on my 100km run-in), when Sam says it should be 90%-110%, with 100% being ideal.

I've emailed sam, just waiting on a reply.

For the most part, the install went flawlessly. There were quite a number of minor differences between the US and Australian cars, which I will detail in an updated install guide for Australian cars. In short:

- AUDM power steering cooler is larger (still fits, I had to modify the bracket)
- AUDM cars have 2 horns, so the second horn needs to be mounted as well (can be done without too much trouble)
- AUDM cars have the pop-up bonnet system for pedestrian impacts, which UpRev does not yet support, leading to a permanent dash warning light (annoyance only - I assume the system won't function, but I don't plan on hitting any pedestrians)
- AUDM cars have 3 extra airbag/crash sensors for the pop-up hood system when you hit a pedestrian. 2 of the 3 are attached to the bumper baffles which need removing for air flow, so you will need to retrofit them to the bumper (or remove)
- AUDM cars have an additional aluminium front crash bar extension which needs to be removed to mount the intercooler (in theory I could have mounted it with the intercooler, but it was very tight and the crash bar extension is very flimsy - Almost appears to be a bumper support rather than a crash bar)
- AUDM cars ALL have water-to-oil coolers. The stock stud that goes between the filter and the block is quite long and you cannot mount the bypass plate for the oil filter relocation. I had to machine myself a new stud (I threaded the old stud fully, then cut it down with a grinder) to make it work
- AUDM cars use the stock power steering pressure line, which you have to bend slightly at the pump end to route over the belt system
- AUDM cars require the extension of the power steering pressure sensor connector (this may be all cars, but it wasn't in the instructions)

- I hate push-lok hose. It might be good, but **** it is hard to put on!!!
- I hate constant-tension clamps!!!

I have a good mechanical knowledge but all self-taught. I found the install quite simple overall, just time consuming (maybe 40 hours in total, but I moved very slowly/methodically). There were very few moments where I thought "****, what do I do now???"

I'll be posting some more details when I have the tune all sorted, but in short:

GTM's Stage 1 S/C kit, while a few years old and a few revisions on, is an incredibly well engineered product. It honestly felt like I was installing OEM equipment. The physical layout of everything (the relocation of the pumps, alternator) _just works_. Sam, Mike and the guys must have spent a LOT of time getting the kit engineered as well as it is. The brackets are all top notch, solid, and lined up like the came from the Nissan factory.

The only issue I have had is getting email replies from the guys - They are obviously VERY busy (And I can see why!) but sometimes I would wait for a week or so to get a reply. I guess I could have called, but this was never super-urgent for me, so I can't really judge overall on the response time.. I suspect if I had life-and-death issues I would have called and gotten responses right away.

I will reserve final judgement once the tune/is all sorted and I am on-boost, but I can pretty confidently say I am unbelievably happy so far with the kit, and the guys at GTM.

Top class gear guys!
Cool. Great info as well. Look forward to checking it out when I'm back home next.
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Old 02-08-2013, 02:04 AM   #35 (permalink)
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A word of caution if you are intending to add headers .... as the US headers are optimised towards LHD and long-tube OR shorty headers will need to be "dressed" to clear the knuckle on the steering rack uni-joint ...

Search my posts for photo's of what is required to avoid the headers rattling away on the steering if/when you get them fitted.

Shout when you have the car running, there are a few of us Z34 track junkies in Melbourne. Consider joining us at Philip Island for the NSDOC Nationals at Easter if you are into track-days and sprints.

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Old 02-08-2013, 01:34 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Fillerbunnie,

We want to give you props for all the feedback you've given us since you're the first Australian customer that has even bothered to let us know how things went. This will really help out your fellow Aussies with future installs and help us deliver an even better product since we are always looking for opportunities to make our stuff the best it can possibly be. Cheers mate!

Thanks for the kind words about our kit as well. We are pleased that you like it.

I checked with Sam and he did reply to the e-mail you sent us yesterday, so we should be able to help you get up and running.
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:05 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Congrats on the completed install... I've had the kit on my car for 15,000 miles and have no complaints. You'll really enjoy it. The power is great and the sound is even better!
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:49 PM   #38 (permalink)
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my dipping RPM's at idle were due to a fuel pump going out..... not sure if thats your issue, just throwing it out there.

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Old 02-09-2013, 07:11 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Sam sent me a new tune for the idling issue. Hasn't fixed it, I'm thinking it may be something physical so I will check it out tomorrow.

The open loop fuel maps are spot on with AFR, and closed loop are pretty good now too.

I got on the boost a bit after my 100km run in was over... Roads are wet and it's raning, but so far this thing is crazy fast. More to come when the roads dry out!
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:48 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fillerbunnie View Post
Sam sent me a new tune for the idling issue. Hasn't fixed it, I'm thinking it may be something physical so I will check it out tomorrow.

The open loop fuel maps are spot on with AFR, and closed loop are pretty good now too.

I got on the boost a bit after my 100km run in was over... Roads are wet and it's raning, but so far this thing is crazy fast. More to come when the roads dry out!
I bet you have recalibate your AFR gauge
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Old 02-10-2013, 06:26 PM   #41 (permalink)
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So a good physical look over showed no vacuum leaks, nothing I can physically fault. Still getting the idle issues though.

Hot-start idle is flawless, but once the car is warmed up it starts dropping/almost stalling. I'll upload a youtube video tonight.

Seems to be identical to this issue:
Strange idle problem with GTM SC Stage 1

Just more severe (My car actually stalls probably 1 in 3 times)
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Old 02-10-2013, 07:16 PM   #42 (permalink)
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So I just had a call from Sam @ GTM, going to forward him some logging data for him to go over & hopefully sort out the tune.

Will let you know how it all goes!
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:51 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fillerbunnie View Post
So I just had a call from Sam @ GTM, going to forward him some logging data for him to go over & hopefully sort out the tune.

Will let you know how it all goes!
Let me know what he says, mine still does this now & again like the thread you linked.
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Old 09-23-2013, 02:00 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Old thread. But any update on this mate? I'm in the middle of assessing my boost options. I also own a Audm 370
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Old 08-22-2015, 11:50 PM   #45 (permalink)
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So, update on this one. I was posted overseas for the past nearly 2-years - Leaving shortly after the last reply.

Long story short, I swapped in GTR plugs and that has resolved the issues to a degree - I still get a slightly unstable idle with occasional near-dropouts/stalling, but it doesn't seem to actually stall anymore which is good.

I am still however, battling what I think is either an obscure intermittent boost leak, or a tuning issue.

Cold start performance is excellent, however when warmed up I am getting massive power loss intermittently - say 50 - 60% of the time. I'll be driving, and accelerate and have full power & close to 8psi, the next time I accelerate I will get an enormous loss of power and what sounds like air rushing out the exhuast of the car.

I couldn't find any vacuum leaks, and I subsequently had the intake system pressure-tested at a mechanic's and could not find any leaks either, leading me to believe may be it is all tune-related? Could VVT overlap of some sort be somehow bleeding off positive pressure straight out the exhuast?

I'm also getting a bit of flutter at cruising speeds on the highway (60mph) and sometimes in low to moderate acceleration. I dismantled the BPV and noticed some very light scoring on the cylinder, but also that the BPV spring appears to be cut down (it is not a full spring, and has obviously been cut by a pair of wire cutters), however this cut-spring may be a normal adjustment GTM makes to the stock supercharger spring - I am unsure. Idle vacuum sits at about -11, and the valve is definitely open at idle (no flutter).

What gets me, is the issue is totally erratic. Logging in UpRev is confusing the s**t out of me, I understand the concepts but looking at the ignition timing and AFR's, they are a bit all over the place (for instance at idle I'm getting +125% fuel adjustment, but light throttle I'm getting -90%. I'm also seeing detonation at low throttle across 1500 - 2200rpm in 1st and 2nd, but logging it shows AFR dead on 14.7 (with moderate ECU adjustment), so not sure if this is timing related? I wonder if there are some sensor differences with the AUDM model that screw with Sam's base tune?

I've contacted Sam in the past few days about this, so hopefully I can pay for some remote tuning time - The only UpRev tuner anywhere near me (still >2 hours away) wants multiple-thousands to even take a look.

Will keep you up to date Sorry for the 2 year delay!
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Last edited by fillerbunnie; 08-22-2015 at 11:54 PM.
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