Fillerbunnie's GTM Stage 1 Supercharger build (Australian RHD)

fillerbunnie

Kit arrived - exceptionally well packed!

Every item individually sealed and itemsed, with a full parts breakdown.. down to the individual screws and bolts!

Still waiting on the tune from Sam, haven't heard from him in a few days but hopefully that will come soon.

So I did the fuel pump last night and all went smoothly. took about 2-3 hours in total, working very slowly. I would put pics up, but they are no different/no more interesting than the installation manual.

A couple of points to make during installation (this will make more sense if you read the installation instructions:

http://www.gtmotorsports.com/Manuals...structions.pdf

- Page 13 (Picture 4): You first have to remove the 4 nuts and the metal plate (See the next step), then disconnect the connector from the top of the fuel pump assembly. This is no big deal, just a minor variation to the order.

- Page 15 (Picture 9). Fuel WILL go everywhere. Have a towel. There is no way to avoid this. I had a small rag that ended up soaked through The up-side for me was the top of the fuel pump assembly got a nice clean!

- Page 15 (Picture 10): When removing the fuel pump, it will snag on the float. The float sits on a bit of metal, protruding out about 15cm from the body of the fuel pump, so you need to rotate the fuel pump 90 degrees as you remove it. Think about this when you remove it, as the sensor looks quite fragile and you don't want to damage it.

- Page 18 (Picture 24): I used a flat-blade screwdriver to pry off the filter. The filter is fused to a piece of plastic, which is then pressed down to the fuel pump body housing. I put a flat-blade between the two plastic parts and levered it off easily. I think pulling on the filter isn't the best move - It seems quite sturdy (For woven fabric), but I feel I may have ripped it if I pulled it with the force I would have required to remove it.

- Page 18 (Picture 23) These instructions on removing the fuel pump don't seem 100% dead-on. The instructions say unhook/break (if required) the white plastic clips to remove the fuel pump, when in reality you can simply rotate the fuel pump counter-clockwise and it falls out of the housing (See my badly annotated diagram). These plastic clips need to be cut away in the next step anyway, however it is a lot easier to do this with the fuel pump removed, than trying to break/unhook the clips with a fuel pump in the way.


- Page 20 (Picture that shows cutting plastic) - Cut the clips, using a sharp blade, right down to the base of the clip. If you leave clips protruding unevenly, the fuel pump will go in at an angle.

- Page 22 (Picture 50) - My harness was red and black. Green/turquoise wire is positive (red). Black is black. This is pretty self-explanatory, but thought I'd add it none the less.

- Page 24 - Possibly the most important point - my O-Ring had stretched and no longer sits in the recessed metal. I re-assembled (with difficulty, as the o-ring sits outside the recess as it is too large, making it almost impossible to put the screws back in). Now it is re-assembled, it does not seal 100% as a portion of the o-ring is outside the recess. **I HIGHLY RECOMMEND BUYING A REPLACEMENT O-RING** These can't be more than $15 from Nissan and I will be doing just that this week. I suspect I will get fuel fumes in the cabin until I replace this. If I was GTM I would probably be supplying one with the kit. Maybe if you car was very new (mine has 20,000 miles) it would not have expanded so much, but for me a replacement was mandatory.

Car fired up after about 5 seconds post-replacement, and ran perfectly (apart from the fuel smell from all the petrol I spilt when unclipping the fuel hose ~

Pump makes a noticeable whine which you can hear idling. This is normal for Walbro pumps, and not an issue for me as I usually have some music on anyway. Just a nice reminder of the 500 horses I'll have under the hood

Anyway, that is all so far I'll start on the mechanical later this week!

GUTCH

I was wondering what had had happened to you. Were you charged tax or import duties for the kit?

Glad to see it all arrived safe and sound.

fillerbunnie

Not a cent. Thanks Sam!


In regards to the o-ring, perhaps I was unlucky. Mine was quite obviously stretched, so may have just been bad luck.

fillerbunnie

Still waiting on the tune from GTM so I can start

Baer383

You can start it and let it idle to bleed the cooling system and check for leaks the idle adjustment are the same for stock.

__________________
2013 ZL1

754 rwhp 747 rwtq

blackonorange

What o ring are you talking about?

Baer383

He is talking about the blue O ring that seals the top metal plate to gas tank.

__________________
2013 ZL1

754 rwhp 747 rwtq

blackonorange

Ohhh I see, I didn't have a problem with mine.

fillerbunnie

OK so I started the install Friday last week.

All going pretty well, but I've hit page 51 (Power Steering line install) of the install document:
http://www.gtmotorsports.com/Manuals...structions.pdf

And it looks like I don't have the lower high pressure fitting or the stainless high pressure line in my kit.

Interestingly, further in the document (Page 77) it shows the power steering cooler lower line, with an arrow pointing "To Factory Hard Line", despite the instructions earlier in the guide (Page 38, removal of power steering lines) to discard all the factory lines.

So I'm confused - I suspect perhaps the instructions are a mix-up between an old and new version of the kit and I am supposed to be using the factory lines for this part. That, or some parts were missing from the kit. Interestingly, the high pressure fitting and braided line don't appear in the parts manifest either.

I've emailed Sam from GTM, currently awaiting a reply, but I would appreciate input from anyone else who has done this install?

Wattles

Wow, lots of great work! Good luck on the rest of the build!

__________________
2012 G37 IPL 7AT | GTM Stage 1 Long Block | GTM Stage 1 Garett TT | Blitz SBC typeR Boost Controller | GTM Stage 4 Transmission | Tial BOV | Fast Intentions exhaust | GTM 8qt Oil Pan | 583whp/484trq @ 13psi

fillerbunnie

All good, Mike has just replied with some info - advising me I can retain the high pressure line OEM line.

I'll give it a crack tonight.

mikey1600

Just read this build mate, I'll keep an eye on it for sure, pitty I'm in brissy would love to see it!!

keep us updated if you require any special tools for certain jobs, would be a great help as I'm planning to do this myself towards the end of the year it's awesome the way you are explaining certain sections of the guide and which pictures you have had problems with and the resolutions, really helps!

good luck with the rest and enjoy!

fillerbunnie

Hey Mate,

Yeah I'm keeping a log of everything that was different between the USDM & AUDM vehicles. A few things so far, but nothing that can't be cut/ground/soldered around so far!

Intercooler is mounted now, just doing the piping & oil filter relocation and I'm done. Should be starting it up Monday.

fillerbunnie

Kit is in!!

After a couple of minor setbacks (AUDM vehicles have oil coolers, so you can't bolt the oil filter relocation plate to the block as the stock stud is too long) I started the car up last night.

All good except for a couple of issues to do with the tune - The idle is fine, but every 5-10 seconds it drops to ~400pm, almost like it will stall, then back up to normal idling. The other issue is that my AFR correction factor sits at about 80-90% when under low-moderate throttle under 3000rpm (still on my 100km run-in), when Sam says it should be 90%-110%, with 100% being ideal.

I've emailed sam, just waiting on a reply.

For the most part, the install went flawlessly. There were quite a number of minor differences between the US and Australian cars, which I will detail in an updated install guide for Australian cars. In short:

- AUDM power steering cooler is larger (still fits, I had to modify the bracket)
- AUDM cars have 2 horns, so the second horn needs to be mounted as well (can be done without too much trouble)
- AUDM cars have the pop-up bonnet system for pedestrian impacts, which UpRev does not yet support, leading to a permanent dash warning light (annoyance only - I assume the system won't function, but I don't plan on hitting any pedestrians)
- AUDM cars have 3 extra airbag/crash sensors for the pop-up hood system when you hit a pedestrian. 2 of the 3 are attached to the bumper baffles which need removing for air flow, so you will need to retrofit them to the bumper (or remove)
- AUDM cars have an additional aluminium front crash bar extension which needs to be removed to mount the intercooler (in theory I could have mounted it with the intercooler, but it was very tight and the crash bar extension is very flimsy - Almost appears to be a bumper support rather than a crash bar)
- AUDM cars ALL have water-to-oil coolers. The stock stud that goes between the filter and the block is quite long and you cannot mount the bypass plate for the oil filter relocation. I had to machine myself a new stud (I threaded the old stud fully, then cut it down with a grinder) to make it work
- AUDM cars use the stock power steering pressure line, which you have to bend slightly at the pump end to route over the belt system
- AUDM cars require the extension of the power steering pressure sensor connector (this may be all cars, but it wasn't in the instructions)

- I hate push-lok hose. It might be good, but **** it is hard to put on!!!
- I hate constant-tension clamps!!!

I have a good mechanical knowledge but all self-taught. I found the install quite simple overall, just time consuming (maybe 40 hours in total, but I moved very slowly/methodically). There were very few moments where I thought "****, what do I do now???"

I'll be posting some more details when I have the tune all sorted, but in short:

GTM's Stage 1 S/C kit, while a few years old and a few revisions on, is an incredibly well engineered product. It honestly felt like I was installing OEM equipment. The physical layout of everything (the relocation of the pumps, alternator) _just works_. Sam, Mike and the guys must have spent a LOT of time getting the kit engineered as well as it is. The brackets are all top notch, solid, and lined up like the came from the Nissan factory.

The only issue I have had is getting email replies from the guys - They are obviously VERY busy (And I can see why!) but sometimes I would wait for a week or so to get a reply. I guess I could have called, but this was never super-urgent for me, so I can't really judge overall on the response time.. I suspect if I had life-and-death issues I would have called and gotten responses right away.

I will reserve final judgement once the tune/is all sorted and I am on-boost, but I can pretty confidently say I am unbelievably happy so far with the kit, and the guys at GTM.

Top class gear guys!

GUTCH

Cool. Great info as well. Look forward to checking it out when I'm back home next.