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GTM stage 2 Air Conditioner Problem?

yeah the 2012 nismos come with 88kpa pressure cap which is way less than 2009 and even the upgraded nismo am talking about thats why i changed , so who

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Old 08-20-2012, 04:02 PM   #91 (permalink)
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yeah the 2012 nismos come with 88kpa pressure cap which is way less than 2009 and even the upgraded nismo am talking about thats why i changed , so who ever has the old caps is lucky , hmmm not sure about which cap to change ? we changed both and its running fine but why would nissan change the set up ? their has to be a reason for going to a less pressure cap and even change places putting the one that has a pressure relief to the water resevoir place and the one to the hose just has a nissan sign with no pressure relief inside the cap and no pressure reading on top . come on guys jump in and share
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Old 08-20-2012, 09:28 PM   #92 (permalink)
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u can see clearly in the link below that in 2012 370z models they changed the cooling system abit to make similar to the gtr which uses 0 pressure cap next to the engine and uses pressurized cap on the reservoir cap , in older models it was the other way around since older models had a plastic cap on the reservoir so in my case i will just reuse the 0 pressure cap next to the engine and leave the upgraded cap on the reservoir since stock suck ,

keeps u thinking why they did that ? hmmmm

2012 370z nismo engine (0 pressure cap on the engine side)
2012 Nissan 370Z NISMO Coupe Engine Photos | GTcarlot.com

2011 370z nismo (pressurized cap next to the engine side)
2011 Nissan Nismo 370Z: Grassroots Motorsports New Car Reviews

gtr engine bay (0 pressure cap on the engine side)
2012 Nissan GTR – New, improved and pricey. | JDM Wallpapers | HQ Japanese Import Wallpapers
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:18 AM   #93 (permalink)
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We also use csf radiators which I am sure now they were not the best choice since they are single core and don't do an amazing job , anyway the fans are smaller than stock and will use some modification and straps and stuff but no biggie everything can be cut and put together we were gana do anything to fix this issue
Allthough our unit is only a single row, it's still twice the thickness as the OE radiator + it comes with 15% more efficient tubes.

To make the unit a "drop-in fit" we could only make the unit a larger 1 row. Otherwise there would be a good amount of cutting to install a larger unit, and would most likely cut down our potential market base.

We've just given a unit to motoIQ.com to do a real-life before/after track test with temperature logging. The results should be published within a month.

We were also on Bullet's "White dragon", and dynoed at 990HP.

If you have a massive intercooler sucking in hot/warm air - then the warm air, which is now even hotter after going through the intercooler, has to go through the condenser and finally through the radiator (even hotter air) - you will need a radiator with a much larger capacity (at least large 2/3 rows) - there is no space for this in the vehicle without removing the condenser or major structural changes. To top it all off, the exit for air flow after the fans is very limited as well.

The temperatures of the middle east are an extreme case of vehicle cooling problems. I personally would not buy a 370Z in the middle east because there is not enough space/flow to fix the factory cooling issues. With that being said, our unit has had great success in many track and normal ambient temp settings.. even with cars with F.I.
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Old 08-21-2012, 01:09 AM   #94 (permalink)
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We've just given a unit to motoIQ.com to do a real-life before/after track test with temperature logging. The results should be published within a month.
Awesome, will be neat to see the data.

I'm curious, if I can pick your brain for a minute here derailing this thread. I've been thinking down the line about getting rid of my 19-row Setrab oil cooler and going to a Laminova oil:water exchanger instead (this on a car that just does 30-minute HPDEs, in TX heat, and no FI).

There's not a lot of data about going this route yet, although I think Travis's first attempt ended up with the Laminova being good enough to cool the oil, but the stock radiator not being able to handle the extra heat in the water system, IIRC. AM Performance successfully ran a similar setup during their brief existence in the Conti series, but not sure what they were using for a radiator. Any guess as to whether yours would handle the heat from this?
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Old 08-21-2012, 05:51 AM   #95 (permalink)
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its cool that csf is being on track , but i guess their isnt anything wrong giving an opinion , middleeast or not hot or cold , tests should have been done in climates way hotter than here for example , take vettes for example they have limited airflow , when dewitts made their radiator they made an option for radiator only or radiator plus fans , so u guys could have done that in my opinion than letting the customer go and fine their own fans with spal , but again ur radiators are cool and i used them for 3 z's in the middleeast but they need a helper such as spal fans period to make a Z run at its best , so i hope this thread will be a good pusher for u guys to make a complete kit with fans ect ect and make us worldwide run as cool as a camri

csf guys do u guys know why nissan changed the radiator setup on the 2012, and made it typical as the r35 ? as mentioned in my above replies ?

thanks
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Old 08-21-2012, 07:03 AM   #96 (permalink)
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On the change for the radiator setup in 2012, that is when they introduced the water oil cooler.
From what I have seen the oil cooler uses radiator coolant which might explain the redesign.
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Old 08-21-2012, 07:29 AM   #97 (permalink)
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makes sense
i opened a thread regarding the fan control setting by temp and made it to come on fully at 195f , factory settings suck , but the qustion is did anyone change the ac pressure setting ? their are fan setting by temp an speed and their is by ac pressure , most ppl didnt mess with it , but i have a feeling it might help .again u have ac problems , just change your fans and weak them to come on early + distilled water and wetter for better cooling . problem solved

i cant believe factory fan cfm's are 500 each !! even a maxima and taurus are way higher
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Old 08-21-2012, 09:29 AM   #98 (permalink)
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this isnt much air going to your ac condenser since the 370z styling already doesnt haver much air and now we turbo guys blocked the air by the intercooler, we are one of the first ppl to have problems with ac with the tt kit in the middleast in 2011 , and we tried loads of stuff u name it , we tried it , now the solution is simply as follows

1- change your radiator caps+ reservoir (high nismo radiator caps)
2- bleed your radiator with distilled water and water wetter( one bottle only) if it doesnt get below 40f in arizona then pure distilled water will work better but if it does stick to 10 to 15% coolant
3-tweek your fans to come on early lets say 185 full power
4-change your fans to spal fans 2700 cfm i think--) almost three times the power of the stock 500 cfm each fans
SPAL USA

u can contact alex goodwin at motionlab for good prices and way better than getting it direct from spal , or u can do your own search for better prices u will find good prices online as well atleast 100 bucks cheaper than spal.

the above mentioned solutions are working great in 130F heat these days in kuwait ,

these are suggestions only and we did them while being fully responsiable of the out come , but thank god everything is working perfect , not sure if the radiator caps helped or not actually but the in the end the overall out come is amazing , am sure its the upgraded fans and distilled water with waterwetter did the job but who knows , and i dont care as long as it got fixed ,

i forgot to mention we added also a pusher fans on the oil cooler with a 195fswitch , temps are 210-220 max on wot pulls at night while its 117f , no one dares to do any pulls at 130f weather loool

hope this helps
Thanks I'm hoping this will cure my problem as it doesn't get much hotter than 116 on the worst days here in AZ. I have an 09 so have the old (better) radiator caps from what it sounds like, I had the tuner tweak the fans to come on full power at 185, and adding distilled +water wetter this afternoon. Only thing left if that doesnt work is going the bigger cfm fans. Fingers crossed the Z will be gtg when I pick it back up tonite after following your list
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:02 PM   #99 (permalink)
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woow 116 thats winter loool its 130 today
wish u the best , but i think 185 full power is abit too low since as i read if u have stock thermostat it opens fully at 180-185 so fans should be at full power atleast 195 , 10 degrees after the thermostat . dont count on this info though
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:09 PM   #100 (permalink)
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I would not put the fans on before 195, let the themostat open at least first then have them kick on.
If you are still having problems the bigger cfm fans will be very good. That is one thing I wish I had did when we upgraded the radiator but it was a bit of a rush so we just took out the OEM and put in the CSF radiator quickly (and yes it is a very quick job actually).
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Old 08-21-2012, 01:25 PM   #101 (permalink)
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I would not put the fans on before 195, let the themostat open at least first then have them kick on.
If you are still having problems the bigger cfm fans will be very good. That is one thing I wish I had did when we upgraded the radiator but it was a bit of a rush so we just took out the OEM and put in the CSF radiator quickly (and yes it is a very quick job actually).
Do you know if there are aftermarket fans that have OEM fitment for the CSF radiator? The CSF is the way I am leaning given the cost premium of the GTM radiator (though it is a super nice piece).
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Old 08-21-2012, 02:31 PM   #102 (permalink)
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SPAL USA

they fit but need some tweakin since they are smaller in size but stronger 3 times , u can get them from other vendors , for cheaper such as motion lab
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Old 08-21-2012, 03:49 PM   #103 (permalink)
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woow 116 thats winter loool its 130 today
wish u the best , but i think 185 full power is abit too low since as i read if u have stock thermostat it opens fully at 180-185 so fans should be at full power atleast 195 , 10 degrees after the thermostat . dont count on this info though
Oops! To late. I got your reply to set the fans on full about 185 while it was headed to the tuners n he did what we told him. Will that mess anything up? I know in the summer it should be fine? but the other 6mos of the year when it's in the 70s during the day is it possible to keep the car from heating up all the way? I guess I can always take it back to the tuner and have him set it to 195 later. Whats the repercussions from having it set at 185 full power? I just wanted my a/c to work right lol
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Old 08-21-2012, 04:38 PM   #104 (permalink)
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SPAL USA

they fit but need some tweakin since they are smaller in size but stronger 3 times , u can get them from other vendors , for cheaper such as motion lab
Do the SPAL fans need an independent controller, or will the ECU be able to control them?
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Old 08-22-2012, 02:18 AM   #105 (permalink)
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i dont think anything will go wrong if u set it up st 185 but it advisable to stay 10 degrees higher than the thermostat opening , thats why i mentioned 195 , i even set mine at 201 , waiting for the tuner to come back to set at 195 , but again doin the fan mod by it self didnt help us regarding the ac getting hot in sotp go traffic just made the coolant stay lower thats all , if u want the ac to work u have to put stronger fans or leave the stock fan and pusher fan behind the intercooler to push air on the radiator/condensor , but we said we dont want more voltage with this extra fan thingy so we installed the spal fan i mentioned , it wasnt easy though an needed little work

it works fine all u need is fan harness kit and a 185 or 195 harness kit as well and brackets or straps .
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