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-   -   Boosted Performance single turbo build (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/52577-boosted-performance-single-turbo-build.html)

Staples 04-29-2012 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by modme (Post 1692878)
I just wanted to point out that the plugs you linked to are for VQ35HR engines. They are 1 step hotter than the VQ37VHR plugs. The correct plugs for VQ37VHR are: FXE24HR-11

Heat ranges:
VQ35DE = 16
VQ35HR = 22
VQ37VHR = 24

Thanks for the correction. NGK needs to get their website sorted out.

blackonorange 04-29-2012 06:17 PM

Nice build ehhhhhhhh

wheee! 04-29-2012 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance (Post 1692857)
James was over (customer/owner) and said I can take my time, he is not in a hurry to get the car back any time soon.

It will be a while...
















:stirthepot:


:roflpuke2::bowrofl::icon18:

erkthejerk73 04-29-2012 06:25 PM

cant wait sasha!

mhcoss 04-29-2012 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance (Post 1692857)
James was over (customer/owner) and said I can take my time, he is not in a hurry to get the car back any time soon.

It will be a while...
















:stirthepot:

take your time man! Quality work doesn't happen overnight

Cell 04-29-2012 10:10 PM

I am guessing we will be drilling the plenum also when ever we do the install ourselves.

sfearl1 04-29-2012 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cell (Post 1693286)
I am guessing we will be drilling the plenum also when ever we do the install ourselves.

yeah, i don't think Sasha wants us all sending our plenums up north.

zguynate 04-30-2012 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sfearl1 (Post 1693303)
yeah, i don't think Sasha wants us all sending our plenums up north.

Why would we need to drill our plenums?

Nixlimited 04-30-2012 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dragonbreath (Post 1694032)
Why would we need to drill our plenums?

MAP reference lines. You could potentially T off other lines, but I don't know how many and where those are.

JMac88 04-30-2012 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dragonbreath (Post 1694032)
Why would we need to drill our plenums?

For the pressure lines. I am sure most kits would have to do this unless there is an adaptor out there that Sasha doesn't know about? I am perfectly fine with this considering all the other components (splash shields, windshield washer res, ect..) are left fully intatact.

Boosted Performance 04-30-2012 10:20 AM

One port is for the waste gates, and the other is for BOV's.

There are a couple of places one could T off of back there, but I chose to drill/tapp new dedicated lines for the w/g's and BOV's. It is the "proper" way to do it.

esfourteen 04-30-2012 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance (Post 1694068)
One port is for the waste gates, and the other is for BOV's.

There are a couple of places one could T off of back there, but I chose to drill/tapp new dedicated lines for the w/g's and BOV's. It is the "proper" way to do it.

it's also really not a big deal to drill this manifold, its thick plastic and drills quite easily. if you are installing the kit yourself you can surely handle this part :icon17:

zguynate 04-30-2012 12:42 PM

Wow. Brainfart. I didnt even think of that lol. What do you think about vacuum blocks? I had one on a previous car that I never had problems with. I had it in line with the brake booster.

esfourteen 04-30-2012 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dragonbreath (Post 1694376)
Wow. Brainfart. I didnt even think of that lol. What do you think about vacuum blocks? I had one on a previous car that I never had problems with. I had it in line with the brake booster.

phunk did this on his greddy twin turbo kit without issues.

erkthejerk73 04-30-2012 01:20 PM

i like the idea of the vaccum block vs drilling, but i will do whatever BP thinks is best.

Boosted Performance 04-30-2012 02:00 PM

Vacuum blocks will work just fine. There is a rather large vacuum port at the back of the manifold (have picture on home computer) that can be used for this. I don't see a problem with it at all. I think it goes in to the cabbin (fire wall)..can't remember now. It is at least 3/8", so plenty big.

Cell 04-30-2012 02:01 PM

I will probably go with a vacuum block instead of drilling.

O&G 04-30-2012 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cell (Post 1694535)
I will probably go with a vacuum block instead of drilling.

I used the vacuum manifold on the line Boosted mentioned. Works fine.

Sent from my SAMSUNG GALAXY NOTE using TapTalk 2

Nixlimited 04-30-2012 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cell (Post 1694535)
I will probably go with a vacuum block instead of drilling.

I like that idea better too. Would love to see instructions on that.

Boosted Performance 04-30-2012 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nixlimited (Post 1694943)
I like that idea better too. Would love to see instructions on that.

There really is not need for instructions. These things are as simple as you could get.

The inlet (npt x npt nipple in pic below) goes to a manifold vacuum source, and then just take the outlets to whatever needs a vacuum source:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/attachment...cuum-block.jpg

batboyvaj 04-30-2012 10:02 PM

The wastegate should not see vac. It's better to hook up the WG to a boost only source (compressor housing, charge piping). You run the risk of tearing the diaphragm. I found this out the hard way and have verified with Tial.

Boosted Performance 04-30-2012 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by batboyvaj (Post 1695724)
The wastegate should not see vac. It's better to hook up the WG to a boost only source (compressor housing, charge piping). You run the risk of tearing the diaphragm. I found this out the hard way and have verified with Tial.

Strange...I have had the same Tial MV-S waste gate on my car for 3 years now hooked up to the IM, and not a single issue.

If you hook it up to the compressor cover, the boost will fall off in the upper RPM range. This is due to pressure drops across the entire system.


On the build...I am now working in the waste gates, things are looking good so far.

Nixlimited 04-30-2012 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance (Post 1695423)
There really is not need for instructions. These things are as simple as you could get.

The inlet (npt x npt nipple in pic below) goes to a manifold vacuum source, and then just take the outlets to whatever needs a vacuum source:

[/IMG]

Nice! Should have used one of these on my STi.

zguynate 05-01-2012 12:12 AM

I'm glad I brought up vacuum blocks now lol. It was VERY convenient on my old turbo car. And you don't have to worry about drilling your plenum or worried about cheap t's into other lines.

Boosted Performance 05-01-2012 02:26 AM

Well, it's 1:15AM and I am done for yesterday I guess.

Got a solid start on the wastegates. While at it I had to move the transmission harness further up..no big deal at all, takes about two minutes. This is where the passenger side exhaust pipe runs.

Up and away:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/IMG_7329.jpg

Then I moved on to welding the waste gate pipes on:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/IMG_7333.jpg


Looking good installed:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/IMG_7347.jpg

They are up and away from everything:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/IMG_7337.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/IMG_7340.jpg

Then I started the hard part, merging the two together. Each waste gate has a 1.5" outlet, and after merging it goes up to a single 2" pipe. It will go in to the driver side of the Y-pipe that goes in to the F.I exhaust:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/IMG_7358.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/IMG_7360.jpg

As it sits now:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/IMG_7371.jpg

There will be a 2" V-band flange after that flex coupler that goes nowhere, and then another short section which will merge with the rest of the exhaust. This is something that I will do later on today I guess.

In case anybody is wondering about all the flex pipes. They serve two purposes. The install is made easier as there is a bit of give in them. The other (even more important purpose) is to keep things flexible during heat cycles. If everything was ridged, things would start to crack due to stress. I guess you can compare it to a bridge, if it was solid anchored to both sides it would fall apart rather quick.


I also had a look at how one would get to the fuel pump. It looks like it is behind the back seat, and a bunch of plastic has to be removed to gain access?

Dzel 05-01-2012 07:09 AM

:happydance::happydance:I got the ok from the wife to buy this kit!!! Sasha are you going to provide a pre tune with the kit?

wheee! 05-01-2012 07:20 AM

All the work looks great Sasha! This will be a huge hit at the EME Day car show in May!! Gotta figure out a way for people to see this artwork under the car though.... hmmmm.

JMac88 05-01-2012 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance (Post 1696156)
It looks like it is behind the back seat

I'll bug you about that one later haha

Quote:

Originally Posted by wheee! (Post 1696248)
All the work looks great Sasha! This will be a huge hit at the EME Day car show in May!! Gotta figure out a way for people to see this artwork under the car though.... hmmmm.

I think most put mirrors under the car to show the undercarriage. Though that would be pretty expensive.

Dzel 05-01-2012 07:50 AM

The more I look at the kit the more I realize I'm gonna have to change out the clutch before I get the kit installed.

Boosted Performance 05-01-2012 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMac88 (Post 1696256)
I'll bug you about that one later haha

Yeah, 1:00AM fail. Behind the **passenger seat**

esfourteen 05-01-2012 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance (Post 1696301)
Yeah, 1:00AM fail. Behind the **passenger seat**

Just pull out the cubby door behind the passenger seat and then lift out that small carpeted shelf, then theres a thick piece of rubber insulation that can be pulled out and you will see the fuel pump door.

Boosted Performance 05-01-2012 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by esfourteen (Post 1696307)
Just pull out the cubby door behind the passenger seat and then lift out that small carpeted shelf, then theres a thick piece of rubber insulation that can be pulled out and you will see the fuel pump door.

Thank you very much. I just had a quick look at it, and then proceeded to the waste gate fabrication...just wasn't in the mood to mess around with plastic interior pieces at the time.

blackonorange 05-01-2012 08:54 AM

Yea we installed the fuel pump in under 40 mins super easy

Boosted Performance 05-02-2012 02:55 AM

IT IS ALL DONE!

Wastegate finished, and a bunch of random pics:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/IMG_7378.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/IMG_7383.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/IMG_7384.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/IMG_7396.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/IMG_7386.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/IMG_7391.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/IMG_7406.jpg

As it sits on the car:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/IMG_7425.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/IMG_7421.jpg

oro 05-02-2012 03:07 AM

Cannot wait to see the numbers produced by this thing

valpozguy 05-02-2012 05:32 AM

Subscribed

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

wheee! 05-02-2012 07:19 AM

Did you install the O2 sensor bungs Sasha? Didn't see where they went?

Dzel 05-02-2012 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wheee! (Post 1698410)
Did you install the O2 sensor bungs Sasha? Didn't see where they went?

They're on the cats.

wheee! 05-02-2012 08:04 AM

What cats? Those pipes are bolted to the headers....

Boosted Performance 05-02-2012 08:05 AM

The two post cat O2 sensors will go on to the driver side pipe feeding the turbo. Since these are post cat it is ok.

You can see two cicles if you look hard, dirver side down stream of the flex pipe, on the left side or inside..however you want to look at it. (second last pictures)

There will be a bung on the down pipe (about 10" downs tream from turbo) for a wideband sensor.


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