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Originally Posted by Vinny Is a downpipe a must? And how much would you say I'm looking at for a clutch that would last, I'm assuming a twin-plate is close

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Old 12-03-2010, 06:13 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Vinny View Post
Is a downpipe a must?
And how much would you say I'm looking at for a clutch that would last, I'm assuming a twin-plate is close to 2k?
No down pipes are not required. they will help you to get a little more tq from my understanding but the kit includes internal wastegates. also if you purchase down pipes you will also have to buy external wastegates since the internal ones will be inop.

GTM Motorsports*::*CLUTCH - FLYWHEEL*::*GTM® Spec Exedy® Twin-Disk clutch assembly For HR 350Z/G35/370Z/G37
I am not going to just do the clutch though, i want to replace the CSC, and throw out bearing. Don't want to have to go back in there for something stupid. After all that you have to figure installation cost.
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Old 12-03-2010, 07:55 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Alright so here's the deal: after a bit more scrounging, I decided that if rather get most of this done at once.
I'll be purchasing the stage 2 GTM TT as well as test pipes and an oil cooler (if needed?) as well as a clutch.
Not sure exactly what the issue is that you are referring to, having to go back and fix something later, mind explaining? And telling me what I need to prevent this problem?
Thanks!
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Old 12-03-2010, 08:06 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Alright so here's the deal: after a bit more scrounging, I decided that if rather get most of this done at once.
I'll be purchasing the stage 2 GTM TT as well as test pipes and an oil cooler (if needed?) as well as a clutch.
Not sure exactly what the issue is that you are referring to, having to go back and fix something later, mind explaining? And telling me what I need to prevent this problem?
Thanks!
Ok first Yes you need a oil cooler. This is a must must must have. what i am referring to is people that had after market clutches where having problems because there CSC was going bad well some took out the after market clutch and went back to stock because that was really the only option about it to stop. Recently and I can't remember who has came out with a after market CSC but it is pretty expensive and I am not sure how well it is holding up since it is new. there is a great thread on here about it and i will try to find it. So to prevent the clutch issue your going to need a new CSC, I also would recommend getting a new throw out bearing.

here is the link to people with the known CSC failures and there is a thread that explains everything very well
http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...-failures.html
Also you said your limit was 14k right thats for everything and installation right?

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Old 12-03-2010, 08:08 PM   #19 (permalink)
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also you need a boost controller. you need it need it need it. You have to know what psi boost you are running since there is no other way to monitor it except a Gage. But later down the line your going to end up buying a boost controller so you should just get that now and forget the Gage if you were thinking about it.

a nice one at a decent price is the EVC-S I have it and did some research on it and couldn't find any complaints. easy to set up has 2 modes a and b for low boost and high boost and also displays your psi. Not sophisticated but gets the job done.

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Old 12-03-2010, 08:54 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Most of these suggestions are right on the money and the philosophy is dead on. Don't skimp on having exactly what you need to run safe and find a shop that's willing to explain how the setup you're getting works in detail. Boost is great and if you know what you're doing, you can get away with a lot, but make sure you know what your car is doing and understand what it means. Wideband afr is mandatory, but I think the car has a wideband stock so just get a gauge. You want to be able to keep an eye on your boost so you know the turbo is acting right. And an EGT so you can make sure to don't melt your exhaust manifold is nice to have if you're pressing on the car for any extended amount of time. You WILL eventually need a clutch/flywheel and get ready for some tires and breaks lol.

I'm high jealous, and I'm hoping to jump on the FI train soon myself.
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Old 12-03-2010, 09:55 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Yeah, I managed to gather 16k but that's my absolute limit. Hopefully I can get everything done with that. As for the CSC failure, would upgrading to perhaps a more expensive/better quality clutch prevent the issue? As for tires, I just put a brand new set of hankook ventus v12 evos on so no problem there (yet) lol
As you can probably tell, I'm pretty new to all of this. Not sure what you meant when you said my exhaust system could get melted? Lol

Anyway thanks a million for your help, much appreciated!!
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:23 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Ok 16 is probably do able. If I did my math right your looking at 11000 for what you want. That includes oil cooler clutch twin turbo kit boost controller the Evc s I mentioned and test pipes. What that doesn't include is tax shipping and installation. Shipping I can't estimate for you but I know the average installation is about 3k so there is 14k just for the turbo kit. Not sure on oil cooler but I'd say no more then 200 then 250 for the boost controller depending how crazy of a install you want so there is 14450. I would imagine getting the clutch installed would be a 1000. So there is 15450. New csc is about 360 which I think is over prices but that's what I think I saw it for. As you can see your going to be spending that 16k lol. I might be off on some of the prices but I like to over estimate a little better to have money left over then be dryied out looking for the rest to pay your bill which was my biggest fear.

Ok now as far as the better clutch the answer to your question is no that won't correct the issue. The problem with the csc is to my understanding is that it is kind of small to grab the fingers on the clutch and it eventully gets pulled through because of the increase of hydraulic pressure. Second they have issues with internal leakage like the inner orings go bad and causes the master cylinder to loose fluid or clutch pedle to stick to the floor. Maybe some one can chim in and verify that this info is right but I am pretty sure it is.

Don't flame me for typing I am doing this on my iPhone lol so please forgive the grammer. Let me know if you have any more questions and good luck in the end it is worth the money trust me
Frank
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:29 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Do you know where I could get the CSC?
And what kind of power do you think I'd be able to make with these mods/a good tune?
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:44 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Do you know where I could get the CSC?
And what kind of power do you think I'd be able to make with these mods/a good tune?
Csc is some where on the forum of who sells try the search and type in csc. If you get the turnkey kit which I would recomend sam will provide you with a tune. On my conservative tune at 7 psi I was running 410 to the wheels at 10 psi I was running at 460 to the wheels. After verification an all was good sam sent me another tune that was not so conservative and I can tell the power increase easily noticeable. I would say at 7 psi I am at about 450 and at 10 psi I am in the 500 give or take. I can not give you a exact because I haven't dyno it yet. You will have no problem being with what you want and the power increase is crazy. Don't get to caught up in the number game because when it comes to dyno there are so many factors that come in to play such as how it was calibrated wht type of correction it uses. Who makes the dyno. Out side air temp and elevation. There good for a ball park figure
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Old 12-03-2010, 11:48 PM   #25 (permalink)
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So what's the limitation at that point? I mean whats stopping you from hitting 550 in you particular build? I know the turbos are good for more than 500, so what would you need to upgrade in order to get the most out of the turbos?
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Old 12-04-2010, 07:52 PM   #26 (permalink)
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So what's the limitation at that point? I mean whats stopping you from hitting 550 in you particular build? I know the turbos are good for more than 500, so what would you need to upgrade in order to get the most out of the turbos?
I really don't want anymore. It's a pain in the *** to keep traction now lol. Whats stoping me from getting the most out of my turbo is my engine it self which is stock. I am sure I can get a dyno run of 700 hp but that will be the last dyno that engine will ever see.
Frank

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Old 12-04-2010, 08:02 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Haha got it, I think I will get the clutch/CSC and aim for 500whp. Now to order the parts... Z1? What do you think?
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Old 12-04-2010, 08:12 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Haha got it, I think I will get the clutch/CSC and aim for 500whp. Now to order the parts... Z1? What do you think?
who ever you want. I went through GTM. Gave sam a call and introduced my self told him what I wanted and what others told me and he gave me the facts and all. I don't think sam was thinking I was going to buy the kit right there because he was like it all depends on when you wanna the pull the trigger and i was how about right now lol. Z1 imo are good people i never really do business with them, I asked a few questions and they were always nice to me and gave me great info. They are a win company from what I have seen. You can give sam a call talk to him and have z1 install it, or do both from Z1 that choice is yours. I just had some questions that i wanted answered from the source, example being was the stock clutch. Good luck bro and let me know if you have any questions, and keep me updated. You will greatly enjoy the kit alot of great engineering went into it.
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:56 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Think this is worth picking up for the CSC issue?
SZ Clutch & Flywheel Upgrades + Bearing!
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Old 12-04-2010, 10:22 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I havnt heard anything negative about that. but it also may be quite new. but thats a hell of a good price.
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