:icon18::iagree:As far as I am concerned, the statements that Tom quoted were all lip-service (or typed, but you know what I mean). Those who have purchased the kit should have something in writing that details the warranty.

that last one is classic

Captain! :gtfo2: please!

Well here it is...45min with a custom tuner and it was done. This was done on a Mustang dyno so the numbers will be lower than usual. Unfortunately i don't have a pre-kit dyno to compare. Since getting the tune today, the car has developed what seems to be a tip-in knock; so i will be working with my dealership/stillen to handle that. Even with the knock, the car accelerates great. Anyways, here's the numbers, i'll let you experts pick it apart:

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...aolo1/Dyno.png

I'd love to see what a stock 370z does on that dyno.

My guess would be ~255whp

14:1 afr at 4k rpm?

I am not expert, but that is probably one of these safest tunes Ive ever seen and it still made pretty decent power. Maybe I am reading this all backwards, but seems you are running a richer setup then the factory or am i Crazy?

Are you serious? 343/252? I just cant believe it, i made 299/233 with bolt ons and no tune on a Mustang. Again i realize there are so many factors to just compare dynos like that. But still 8+grand for 50hp.

I will be finally getting tuned and UD pulley installed in a few weeks and hope to make 310+. It may be longer now as someone hit me this morning :shakes head::shakes head::shakes head:

It sounds like you had it custom tuned. If it's knocking then you should take it back to the tuner to fix this.

update: the drive back from the tuner was a 3 hour drive, per his suggestion, let the car sit for 2 hours to cool off. Afterwards, drove it around again and the knocking was gone. In addition, when the knocking was occurring, the idle sat at 1500 instead of 1000...after i let it cool, it was back to 1000. So he believes the car was heat soaked during my 3 hour drive back and the ecu switched into an alternate map due to the heat.

So, will be checking with Uprev and Stillen to try and remedy. Otherwise, the car drives great.

He didn't go full throttle until about 4200rpms that's why the A/F dipped so low. You want to be at 14:1 when cruising, but it should immediately drop when giving it open throttle 50-100%. Optimal A/F on a supercharger is no more then 11.5:1 a/f, but you could always add a little extra fuel as a safety factor (which is what they did). On a DynoJet that would put down around 383/292 (just to give an idea comparing Stillen's dyno since it reads high to begin with). There's still power to be made by taking fuel out from 4600rpms all way to about 7400rpms, but the knocking needs to be addressed first.

FI runs richer at WOT then N/A, however the AFR chart is not great, he is actually getting leaner at redline.

I would like 14:7.1 until 2000, transition to 13:1.1 or there about at 2500, then getting fatter to about 11:3.1 --- 11:5.1 depending on octane and other tune variables from 3000 rpm to about 6000 rpm, then fattening up a little up top, say 11:0.1 if the motor was happy. His AFR should be stable if his MAF is scaled correctly and fuel targets are requested int he correct load/rpm zones.

Tip in knock..... I would contact the injector manafacturer directly and get suggested latency figures for your injectors, give this with any actual flow calibrations from your actual injectors to a decent tuner and ask him to dial the fueling better, you will be amazed how much difference it will make.

If your tuner floored it at 4K for tuning you are missing a massive spread of tunable parameters, I would ask him to tune your lower RPM band also, your load areas at lower rpm need to be tuned , I bet this will be where you are knocking also. Did he spend any time on partial throttle or just WOT >4K?


If your knocking has gone it has probably been learnt out, which will mean you have lost power due to the new leaned parameters... reset your ECU, bet it comes back for a bit until the ecu ***** itself and corrects it for you, saves it in its little memory and pulls some timing to stop it self dying. You may find you actually have switched to a fail safe fuel table which will be even fatter in the fuel, my gas 10:..... 1

Osiris -- lets see some timing data if you have it, if you have any logs email them over, PM me if so, I will chart them for all.

I am not picking at your choice or tune , you had the balls to FI your Z and are getting on with it, good for you, but with such limited data on the tunes I am keen for more info.

are you using the original pulley?

No, i have the silver pulley.


Kastley, i will see if there is any other data i can get from the tuner.