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Appearantly the stock cats can crack (the internal mesh ECT.) even on NA cars. I actually just saw that personally this weekend on my buddy's car with the HKS S/C. What has been see before (here and in Japan) is that this debris can actually get sucked into the cylender between exhaust pulses and score the walls enough to cause sealing & oil issues. I think despite what I've heard about some possible boost loss I'd run some aftermarket cats designed to handle higher FI temps as preventative maintenance whether it's a Stillen or GTM kit. |
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I then argued that it was an incorrect assumption because his Mustang dyno reads higher than most Mustang dynos, very close to what a dynojet dyno reads and that everyone who has done before / after dynos for their supercharger install has seen 100 or more hp increase. The setup I have is the same as RCZ's except he had his tuned by a company in Florida and I had mine done by Stillen. Set up is as follows: 2009 370z sport model, Stillen supercharger, 9 psi pulley, tuned for 93 octane, headers, hi-flo cats, aftermarket exhaust. Here's the dyno with baseline (with headers, cats, exhaust, G3 intakes), 8 psi pulley with 91 octane tune and 9 psi pulley with 93 octane tune. http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3...t/DSCN1432.jpg |
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I dynoed my car there bone stock, made like 250something. I dynoed my car there with full bolt ons and made 290something. I dynoed my car there with the supercharger and made 380something. I then took my car to a local dynojet and made 432hp SAE (455hp STD, STD is what both Stillen and GTM use when they publish dyno numbers) |
....as stated...stock cars make 240-250whp on this dyno...340 is a 90-100whp gain over stock....and on par for the setup IMHO.
...the tip-in knock as discussed has been observed even on stock untuned cars ....in this case it seemed to be a bit exaggerated....I theorize there are a few modes that the ECU reverts to in the event that overheating occurs..and with the combination of the SC kit/florida heat/extended idle/slow cruise/ A/C ...etc its not impossible for these already tempurature sensitive cars to reach the threshold.....without access to these possible alternate schedules its difficult to assume they are at a set point/value...I have seen this behavior exibited using both Osiris and Cobb to tune with and can only hypothesize on the culprit. One thing I CAN say is this is not the first kit I have seen and am still pleased by the results I am achieving with the Stillen kit using UPREV software. I have no complaints thus far and will happily continue tuning these kits as they come. -Jack |
I fully agree with RCZ rwhp #'s how he has converted the SAE rwhp to STD rwhp.
He gave the true RWHP in SAE. That's the one and only true # that counts. With my bolt ons i made 311 rwhp and 320 std Actal hp. Base line was 260.4. (dyno Jet ) Mine is also a 7 AT. Z " Shumby, RCZ and I agree on something " |
Phim, i made 299 so basically 300. I have most bolt ons already installed for this number. I was hoping for 310+ after UD pulley and tune. I also stated that it is not correct to compare dynos this way. So i agree with your statement.
However, the mustang I'm running on does not read as high as any dynojet in this area. I don't doubt it does read high for a mustang, but not dynojet levels. Also remember I'm at sea level here in the Seattle area. So once FI, my numbers should be fairly high in comparison, due to lower ambient heat, and elevation levels. |
Z eliminator, all dynos can give you both sae and std. The difference is that some dynos just plain read lower.
There is no "actual" hp. You dynoed your baseline and bolt-ons on a dynojet, I did it on a mustang dyno. |
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So much for that :rofl2: |
Haha, Its funny because I know I'm right and I know he doesnt know how this whole thing works if he thinks theres a "true" hp.
There's so much stuff that gets thrown around this thread/site that is inaccurate and people say it with such authority. There are maybe 5-10 people in here who actually know what they are talking about. |
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